Hey all, well recently I put a 3'' BL on my rig to run 33's. I love the look now, but the thing rides like a beast! My rear springs are definitely sagged out, and I am definitely going to do a Zuk mod I think after reading this write up https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...uk-mod-215876/.
the only thing is that down the road I was also going to do BJ spacers and something in the rear to get more clearance when I go to 35's and 5.29's. Would my body lift interfere with the Zuk mod, and does the zuk mod give enough lift to match BJ spacers? If the zuk mod doesn't give enough lift to match the BJ spacers, can I also run AAL's?

Also, while looking around underneath my truck, I am noticing that every single bushing is shot. The leaf spring bushings, and all the ones up front. Do those affect my ride quality?

And lastly, I believe that the previous owner cranked the T bars. How can I tell? I'm reading up on some threads to lower them back to stock for a more comfortable ride, but I don't want to fudge any thing up.

Thanks. Any advice is greatly appreciated, I think I'm going to put my truck up in the air all of next weekend because I also have to do seals and bearings in the rear end, so might as well do as many other things I can afford at the same time.

 

Hey there. First off... Worn bushings will definately be a reason( if not all) as to why your ride is stiff. Also look into your shocks condition and bump stops. My brother in law recently bought a 96 tacoma with a 3 inch lift already installed but came to find that he had absolutely no bushings in the front end at all!! He replaced them and the rig drives and handles much better, for a spacer lift that is, but essentially your body lift is too. Secondly, AALs should work just fine with a body lift being that plenty of guys run them around here. I'm not sure about the Zuk mod and body lift combo but would think that it is similar to leaf springs and should also think the extra space from the frame would give the coil buckets plenty of room. Maybe someone could correct me on that one If you really want a nice ride + lift combo invest in some deaver leaf packs or something that offers a full set of springs rather than one arched leaf or AAL. Those are my suggestions and hope they help.

 

thanks for info man, im gunna tryto replace as many bushings as i can

 

Install an Old Man Emu suspension. Did one on my old Jeep Wrangler TJ and it rode like stock but had ~2 inches of lift. Expensive though...

 

With mine i did the Zuk a long time ago, then put a bj spacer lift wit rear blocks instead of the AALs and it has been fine. Looks good and didnt stiffen up the suspension.

 

Too much air pressure will make it ride rough. I think I had like 25/20 in my PU. I think softer tires would help too but I don't know much about tires.

 

I just installed OME rear springs on my 91 p/u and it rides much nicer than the previous AAL setup. Think about it, you are willing to buy and pay separate shipping on an AAL and coils for the ZUK mod. Why not invest in some new springs and fix the problem right instead of applying two different band-aids. My medium duty 2" lift springs cost $150 each plus like $60 to ship, installed in about 2 hours... done deal. Rides nice, adds lift, and increases payload all in one beefy package. I'm satisfied, they work great for me.

The only downside is these springs will not increase articulation much over stock. When I removed my stock rear springs with AAL's and installed the OME lift springs I was still able to run the same shocks without issues.

 

The body lift will not be in the way of the ZUK mod.

The amount of lift depends on what springs you go with in the rear (height and weight of the coils). On my 89 4runner I installed 14" 125lb coils. Those springs gained me about 3 inches of lift over the flat factory springs which in turn was 1.5" higher than the rear. I installed 1.5" BJ spacers in the front to level it out. If you go that route you won't need AAL's.

Yes replacing all, or as many as you can, your bushings will help with the ride.

I have no idea how to tell if the T-bars have been cranked, sorry.

 

Post up a few pics of the CV angles and I'll tell you.

This is a good example of one NOT cranked, see how little angle there is on the CVs (almost flat):



If you want a way to measure this will help: http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/t...ent-19258.html