Fierce Legend

I got a 1992 toyota pickup 4x4 and the horn dont work.

I checked the fuse under the hood and its good. The hazard lights work fine just as a pointer.

I pulled the steering wheel and touched the peace with the spring to the steering shaft and got nothing on the meter.
http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums/...and/IMG059.jpg

slow-mo

I not quite understanding this description but here goes, typically it is the spring-loaded brass (or gold, something like that) plunger that wears off enough that it can't make contact to the ring on the steering wheel side.

Part number 84312-12040.

http://www.utoyot8.com/FullImage.asp...288808-++++%29

http://www.toyotapartseast.com/compo...1-11761_2.html

Fierce Legend

Well I just told you that I tested that with the steering wheel off and showed a picture.

I also took a wire and touched the wire to the brass thing and touched it to ground and the horn did not beep.

I took the horn out and made sure it was working and it does if I hook it striaght to the battery.

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

What were you testing for with the meter? Were you testing for ohms, volts or amps? Have you checked the relay yet?
If you were checking with ohms and "got nothing" as in 0.0, then that is a closed circuit with no resistance, if you checked and got open or OL then that is an open circuit with no continuity and have just isolated your problem.

slow-mo

Yeeesh, "Fierce" is right.



Since you don't state what engine you have on your 1992, the following is based on the 22R:

The horn circuit is simple as it gets 12V power at the 15A Hazard/Horn fuse. From there it goes to a connector plug. Then goes to the horn. Past that is the ground side. Ground goes to the horn switch, then to the frame at the left kick panel.

Since you state your hazards are working, then power past the fuse is not the problem. Since you state the horn works straight to the battery, then that is not the problem. The rest is wires, and the horn switch.

Check continuity at the horn switch. Check continuity between the wires on the horn circuit.

Better yet, it is better to back probe the wires at the connectors to check for 12 volt power while the circuit is on as you may get continuity on the wires, yet the wires may not be able to handle the current under load.

Fierce Legend

I hooked up the meter to the hazard/horn fuse plugs after taking out the fuse.

I hooked it so that when I touch the brass to the steering shaft it reads 12 volts.

So the horn switch is closing the circuit to the fuse under the hood.

I looked at the wire from the horn in the grill and tried to follow it but cant really see were it goes.

Im sure it goes back into the cab but from there I cant see because of the wires are covered pretty good.

were does it go do I can test it

BTW its a 3VZE automatic 4x4

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

do you have power at the horn itself your depress the horn button?
Might 81's horn button was exactly what slo mo described


also when posting pics and asking for help: use the [img] code, links are laziness, so no, you didn't show a pic
.

you have all kinds of crap in there, I would clean the contacts.

slow-mo

I won't be able to help you there, then. I don't have the schematic of the V6 wiring.

slow-mo

From what was described, he bypassed the horn switch by grounding the brass spring-loaded contact to the steering shaft. So that should have competed the circuit.

But again, I don't anything about the V6 wiring circuit. I'm assuming it's still a switched ground circuit.

Fierce Legend

with the horn/hazard fuse in place and the relay in place there is nothing showing on the meter when I touch the brass spring and the steering shaft.

Im assuming because its just completling either a negative or a positive circuite.

when I attach the meter to the hazard/horn fuse and touch a wire to the brass spring and the steering shaft I get 12 volts at the fuse.

This tells me that the horn switch is working the horn relay is working an the fuse is getting power. I cant seem to follow were the wire from the horn goes to.

Does the wire from the grill go to teh horn relay? maybe the relay isnt relaying the power to the horn.

does it go from relay to the fuse to the horn?
or
does it go from the fuse to the relay to the horn?

sbagdon

Sounds like a bad car alarm de-install. Can't count the number of times picked up a used vehicle, and something that an alarm would use didn't work (door sensor, horn, flashers, interior light, etc). Almost always ended up being someone had de-installed an alarm, and didn't re-merge the circuit, somewhere under the dash.

You're going to have to do tests at each junction point, until you find the break.

scope103

Fierce Legend -

It sounds like it may be a relay problem.

Pull the relay. With your meter, find pin 2, which has 12v to ground all the time. From that pin, you should get about 12v to pin 3 (the horn), and zero volts to pin 1 (the horn switch). Press the horn switch; the meter should jump to 12v as you complete the circuit from pin 2 to ground.

If the wiring is okay (above), jumper pin 2 to pin 3, and the horn should sound (be careful, the horn pulls a fair amount of current, so you'll get an arc when you do that).

If all those tests pass, I'm guessing bad relay (and testing that isn't that hard).

It sounds like you are actually doing this diagnosis correctly, but we are all having a little trouble following the description. Try this: with a meter, you never "get nothing." You get infinite resistance or zero volts or 2 amps or something else. Voltage is always measured between two points. You could get 12volts from the horn ring to ground, or between the two contacts of the fuse holder with the fuse out, but you can't get 12volts "at the fuse."

Fierce Legend

sorry when I said I got 12 volts at the fuse. What I ment was I took on lead of the meter and hooked it to the batter and then the other lead to one of the fuse sockets for the horn/hazard fuse.

I have a feeling its a bad relay also. Ill try Thanks

scope103

If you really mean that, that's not good. One side of the horn fuse is always connected to the +12v of the battery. So from the battery to that contact should be 0v. The other contact of the fuse holder goes to the horn relay coil and then to the horn switch and then to ground. With the horn switch "open" (not pressed) you should still get 0v to that side of the fuse.

But it sounds like you're getting close; we may just have a vocabulary problem.

Fierce Legend

Its a relay problem. I tested the 2 vertical terminals for the relay plug and I got 12 volts. I then hooked up to the one horizontal plug and one of the vertical plugs and I got 12 volts when I hit the horn switch. I havent jumped the wire to get the horn to blow but Im sure it will

Maybe you could help me with something else. My Check engine light isnt lighting up I was told it might be a burnt light and it probably is. But is there a way to get it to light up somehow?

I get 12 volts when I hook to the negative side of the battery and the side of the fuse thats closest to the cab. Not normal?
and when I hookup to the positive side of the battery and the side of the fuse holder closest to the front of the vehical I get 0 volts until I hit the horn switch( I think)

How does the relay work? If I hit it on somthing a couple times shouldnt that free up the little switch inside?

scope103

When you turn the key on (not to start) the check engine light lights. If you jumper E1 to TE1 (the way you check for codes), then key-on, the CEL flashes the code. And if you have no codes, it just flashes evenly.

That makes more sense. Then you're measuring from the ground (negative) side of the battery to the positive side, and you should get 12v. That confirms the wiring from the battery to the fuse is good (and is always where you should start.)

Hmm. If that would work, driving your truck into a tree would fix all your electrical problems!

Most automotive relays have the pin-out diagram printed on the case; it looks just like the schematic. The "coil" looks like a coil, and the contacts look like contacts. Start with 12v on the coil (polarity doesn't matter). With the relay on the bench you should be able to hear the click.

If you can't assure yourself that it's good, just throw it out. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...ource=googleps Your time isn't worth it. The pin-outs are pretty standardized, so you should have no trouble finding a "universal" replacement.

Fierce Legend

I split the relay apart and as able to access the entire inside. Theres a coil with 2 wires fron each end solderied to a resistor or somthing and then they goto the plug.

I hooked up the battery negative and positive directly to the 2 little wires comming off the coil and still that little thing didnt make contact wich is the think that is supposeed to click.

Why doesnt it work? Is that thing not a resistor is it a diode? so I gotta hook up the battery to th diode? if the electricicty has to flow through that diode or what ever it is maybe thats whats cooked and preventing this thing from working?

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

First:

Check that the horn is properly grounded. It grounds through the bracket. Make sure that the contact between the bracket and the body is clean (sand the paint down if need be).

Second:
The steering shaft grounds the horn circuit. I went through all of the above just last fall. The steering shaft grounds the horn circuit but it doesn't do it in a logical manner, it grounds through the bearings. Flame me all you want but it does.
Take the steering wheel off and clean the bearings and steering shaft with WD-40 and then some brake clean (careful on the plastic). The horn should now work. Call me crazy but that's how I fixed my horn last fall. It slowly got weaker and weaker and would only work with the wheel turned at a certain point.
A lot of troubleshooting later, we cleaned the goop out of the bearings and tada, circuit grounded and works.

scope103

You don't care. What are you going to do? Fix it with duct tape to save $10? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=12822_0_0_

But you do need to confirm that the relay is the only problem. I suggested how you could jumper the relay socket to confirm that the horn works and confirm that the horn switch works.

Fierce Legend

Ya I jumped the 2 vertical Pins and the horn honked.

The relay on ebay is like 40 bucks with shipping and the one from rock auto is 9 dollers but 30 dollers shipping so Im sure I can goto a junk yard but I wanted to fix mine.

What would be wrong with the relay that I can fix

Ill split the plastic to get at the diode or what ever if thats what needs to be replaced.