elripster

We will always have the threads here on how to align you own truck but I wanted everyone to know I updated the instructions on our website.

http://www.sdori.com/SDORI_Alignment.htm


Frank

lonestar

I just bookmarked that page...... thats great for us shade trees
lots of help!!!!
thanks

Matt16

Is it just the camber that is changed by the installation of the BJ spacers? Also, I am not quite understanding the adjustment of the cam bolts. It seems that there is one six sided bolt- so how do I loosen it and then adjust it if its the same bolt?

AxleIke

Frank, you are my new hero. I've been doing this for a few months now, and the string part had me so confused. My problem was that i was tying off the string at the back, instead of holding it.

The new explination makes complete sense.

AWESOME!!!!!

thook

Hey....I've got a question for you'ins with this kind of experience.

I'm thinking I may crank my t-bars about 1/2" up to level the vehicle out more with the rear. It sits higher with the coils (Zuk mod). I've heard it both ways....a realignment would be necessary AND no....with only 1/2" it won't make much difference. Who knows? The various sources seem like they know more than me......which isn't much...hahaha!

Thanks

FredTJ

Easiest would simply be to crank the bars and then check the alignment and see what, if anything, the cranked bars did.
Question answered then




Fred

Brenjen

I've been reading those instructions (linked from the SDORI BJ spacer page) for three days now & I can't make heads or tails of the process described. Maybe I'm just stupid but the explanation doesn't make sense to me & I'm far from being mentally handicapped.

I see the angle resting next to the tire, I know what tape & string is & I know what bolts to turn but I just don't get the process described at all.

Matt16

I'm stupid too I guess. If I understood the alignment instructions, I would buy the BJ spacers in pretty short order. That's the one thing holding me back. I just can't justify the BJ spacers, plus the $90 alignment (its Canada, its just more expensive).

Beaniam

I just put my +3" shackles and 1.5" BJ spacers from 4 crawler in tonight. I'll be giving this a try tomorrow.

AxleIke

Guys, it is really very simple, but i know where you are coming from, I had trouble too.

First step is the LCA bolts

I set my REAR LCA bolts facing fully outwards, as in, bolt head is towards the tire as far as it will go. When you loosen them, It will be obvious.

Second is to take a square and check the camber, which is the vertical "in/out" of the tire. If you are looking at the front of the truck, crouched down, you will be able to see the camber.

You wheels should be like this:

l l

But they could be in or out like so:

/ \

\ /

Make sense?

So, you turn the FRONT LCA bolts until your tires are square with the ground.

When using the square, BE SURE to measure on EITHER side of the bulge at the bottom of the tire.

All measurements are done with the truck ON THE GROUND, although, I do my adjustments with the wheels in the air, but it doesn't have to be done that way.

Lastly is your toe in. This is where I got confused, because Frank's picture shows the string tied off.

This is how I intend to do it, which incorporates the proper way.

Tie one end of the string to your FRONT tow hook.

Run the string around one side of the truck, going about dead center along the side of the tire, as Frank's picture shows.

Extend the string past the rear tires about a foot or so. I will use something about 16" high, like my jack handle or something, to tie the string off to.

DO NOT TIE THE STRING TO THE BACK OF THE TRUCK.

Now. Move the string so that it is JUST touching both faces of the FRONT tire, across the rim, as shown in Franks picture. Now, measure the distance to the string from the sidewall on both the front and the rear of the REAR tire. Both distances should be the same. If they aren't, adjust the toe until they are.

Now, repeat for the other side.

Voila! Your truck is aligned.

thook

Oh sure......make it simple.

Yeah, I suppose not many 'round these parts go "just 1/2", anyway....

Brenjen

Thanks Ike, that went a looong way to making it clearer for me. I have one tire with a real hard negative camber & I'm sure my toe in is off since I eye-balled it when I replaced the tie rods & sleeves & installed the BJ spacers. For some reason, everyone in my town is getting alignments. I went in yesterday & asked my preferred shop to give me a call when I could bring my rig up & they didn't so I called at 5 p.m. & they said, whoops we just had back to back alignments all day let me check the schedule for Saturday....whooops; back to back alignments all day Sat. as well....how about Monday?

So I called all four shops & they are all booked up with back to back alignments on Sat.

Since I hate waiting I'll get out there & try this after it stops lightning & raining.

AxleIke

One thing I forgot. when doing the camber, do the rough adjustments in the driveway. Then, back the truck out, turn the wheels, and drive a 100 feet or so, and then come back. This will give everything a chance to "settle out".

Then, recheck with the square. If things are good, tighten it down. If not, adjust and repeat.

The first time will take a while. Mine took about 2.5 hours.

I'm down to around 20 minutes now. With the new string idea, it'll be even faster.

Brenjen

My bolts are so tight I can't move them. The nuts are backed off & PB Blaster is soaking in right now. I have no idea what bolt moves what in or out or which way to turn it for the desired affect. The rear LCA bolts all the way toward the wheel? I guess I need to break it all lose & see what does what from a first person perspective, the string/toe in adjustment I comprehend completely but the caster & camber I don't because I've never broken one of those bolts lose before to know what moves when what is turned. I know what camber is & what the wheels look like with too much positive or negative camber & that's about it.

SoCal4Running

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1093484

This is the best thread I have seen on how to set toe and thrust angle. As for camber I cut a framing square to fit inside the lip of the rim where the weights clamp to and then use a 24" level and adjust till the bubble is in the middle.

Both methods require the car to be level front to back and side to side. But by not measuring camber with the square layin on the ground there is less chance of a faulty reading.

Beaniam

I am doing this right now as I have a ton of negative camber now and am in the same boat as brenjen. I don't know what bolt moves what or which way to turn what. Both of the rear lca nuts broke free but the fronts are totally siezed. Going to have to go to work on them with a torch and hope they don't break. Still not sure what to turn now that the rear lca nuts are free.

Brenjen

I got all the LCA nuts loose no problem. The two front bolts (camber...caster?? *shrugs*) moved easily enough but the back two bolts (again *shrugs*) wouldn't budge a single mm. I set the toe in with the string method & the angle was resting square. I test drove it & it pulls a little to the right & my steering wheel will not snap back crisply to center, it goes about 2/3 of the way & then I have to center it manually the rest of the way.

It's good enough to get the shop tech in the ball park I imagine. I have to go my local Toyota dealership Monday for some new CV axle circlips & a rear wiper anyway, I might have them align it instead of the shop I was going to use.

bigtrucknwheels

very nice writeup. I don't think I'll be paying anyone to do an alignment on my truck again... This is sweet! Now I can wheel without fear!

CJM

I rather pay, this way if something goes wrong the people who did it buy me new tires and realign.