alankenji_84

I recently had a valve job done after I burned 2 valves on my 3vze. I just got it all back together and I can't get the thing to start. The best i can get is a stumbling backfire or a high rev before it immediately dies. I checked the cams and crank shaft and they are still lined up perfect on TDC. I checked to see that I was on compression stroke by using a pressure gauge in the #1 spark plug hole and lined up the markings on the distributor (Mark on gear with mark on shaft housing, and the other two on the outside). The rotor is also pointing to the #1 spark plug on the cap. Like an idiot I didn't mark the distributor when I removed it, but shouldn't I at least be able to get it to idle for a short while. I am stumped here. I don't even know what else to look for at this point. What else ould it be? fuel? Vacuum leak? timing? Any help would be great.

thook

Atleast you're getting fuel and spark, then. But, maybe you're not getting enough fuel to keep it running. On the other hand, I don't know how many times you've tried, but did you let fuel pressure build up in the system?

Is everything hooked up...like your air flow meter? The vacuum lines are all hooked up correctly...like to your fuel pressure regulator?

Try setting the distributor about midway to start.

95RunnerSR5

pull your distributor out and rotate the rotor 180* and put it back in, you may have it firing on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke which would give you spark but not at the right time

thook

Any luck?

alankenji_84

I tried rotating the disttributor 180 as well as rotating the crank shaft one full rotation to take it to the exhaust stroke (as previous tries had the rotor at #1 plug on compression stroke). Here is what I have done so far. Checked for vacuum leaks. Checked for fuel. Checked plugs/wire firing order. when I tried to start it the first time i used a compression tester hooked up to #1 spark plug hole. I then rotated the crank by hand until i could see a change in pressure on the gauge. i then rotated the crank 2 full turns to bring it back to TDC. I then lined up all 4 marks on the distributor and the head and bolted the distributor down with the rotor pointing to the # 1 plug connection on the cap. What else should I look for or do? thanks.

alankenji_84

any ideas?.......................... any one?

thook

As long as your crank pulley is lined up with TDC and both cams are lined up on their marks you are set to TDC on the compression stroke. Cam alignment determines compression or exhaust stroke. If that's correct and you have the distributor lined up and rotor pointing at spark plug #1, there's no more need to mess with that aspect.

Is your throttle position sensor set correctly? Is it even good? You will not be able to set the timing, otherwise.

95RunnerSR5

check your AFM

dcg9381

IF it's not plugged in or has a big vac leak, it won't turn on your fuel pump.

kenwoodrunner

also check ur compression

thook

Yeah, good point.

If your air flow meter was working fine before, then it's probably still just fine...unless you've dropped it or something. But, do make sure you're getting good connections. That would definitely screw things up.

alankenji_84

I checked compression tonight and showed 185-195 for all cylinders. Is that high? When I pulled my plugs to screw in the compression tester I noticed that all of my plugs were covered in dark soot. I checked the connections for the AFM and it looks good. I can't remember if i unscrewed those two screws to try th remove the plug... I hope I didn't. and I don't remember breaking anything so.... I guess I will trynsor and find some stuff on here about the TPS sensor. I have never messed with that. Is it difficult? what do I need?
Thanks

thook

Yeah, that seems a tad high, but they are all even'ish...so, that's good. Maybe someone with a little more experienced opinion could chime in on the gauge reading.

And yeah, I hope you didn't remove the two screws, either. If you want to...and you suspect the AFM....you can bypass it temporarily just to get the vehicle running again. But, first check the TPS.

Testing the TPS is not hard, just have to know how to do so.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
Searching the forum on the numerous TPS threads will help, too...for sure.

The soot means you're running rich. With the backfiring and flooding, that's normal. Just clean them up if the insulators (white ceramic part) and electrodes (plug tips with the gap) look good still.

runethechamp

Don't know if 4crawler has updated his page, but there is a difference between the 3vze and 22re procedure in terms of applying vacuum while doing the tests. Look in the FSM for correct procedure.

thook

Right...forgot about that part.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...93throttle.pdf

alankenji_84

Wow, so it as been pouring rain here for 2 weeks and I couldn't bring myself to standing the rain for hours and then I was out of town, but now I am back and ready to knock this thing out. I can't find my feeler gauges and I need a voltmeter with a higher range, so I can't test the AFM or TPS right now, but I am on the way to go and get those right now.
One other thing I did notice though was when I took the cover off of the AFM to see if the connections were shot was that if I held the gate open manually, the car would stay running, albeit very very rough. I also get the same thing happening if I hold open the air gate on the throttle body while it is trying to start. What could this be? Well I will get the feeler gauges and a new voltmeter and post the results of those tests when I get back. thanks

alankenji_84

any ideas...anybody. I checked the TPS and it looks fine. it was never moved when the plenum and throttle body were removed so that was no big surprise. Still need to check the AFM. Would a mis adjusted TPS even be able to keep a vehicle from running? Just wondering. anyway I want to get this done this week and if I can't get it figured out then I am going to have to break down and take it to a shop so any help would be appreciated.
Also I visually inspected almost all of the vacuum hose for cracks or cuts etc. and I found nothing. I don't think a vacuum leak that small would keep it from starting anyway though, but I am grasping for any possibilities at the moment.

Thanks again

Corbit

How is the valve lash ? Have you tryed to run the fuel pump ,by opening the door on the AFM with the key on the run position ? How about some starting fluid ? How is the fuel ? How is the sparck ?