95_n130

Okay so I got a new tps on my 88 3vze. I put it on the same as I took it off by marking the old one and transferring the mark to the new one. So the other day I thought I probably should adjust it to see if it was off by any bit but it wasn't. So the following morning my 3vze had a hesitation to start like it cranked over normally but sounded like it wasn't getting spark. So if turn it over in intervals till it finally started and it started up with no prob. I ran it till i thought the battery was fully charged I turned it back off then started it back up and no prob. I went to work and after work it did the same thing but this morning the problem didn't occur but after work it did any ideas what it could be

tazmaniac_37752

Sounds like you may have a faulty cold start injector!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

First the alternator is not going to charge your battery back to a full charge .

Only a battery charger will.

When was your last good tune up ??

It can be quite a few things causing this problem.

The outside air temperature .

If it starts when the engine is warm it could very easy be the cold start injector or the time switch.

Time to break out the Meter and do some trouble shooting

95_n130

Electrical tune up was last summer new plugs wires cap n rotor grounds cleans and put some of that dialectic grease on all connectors and grounds. New battery last summer and rebuilt alternator same time. I'll test the cold start sensor tomorrow see what I get hopefully I can reach it lol but yeah leaving for work this morning I had to start her with starting fluid and at the end of my shift. Pretty much won't start cold 25 this morning 1:30pm and 20 at 10pm but yesterday was 40 at 1:30 and 35 at 10pm and no problem when it's warmer than the 20s. When the engine is warm starts up as soon as you turn the key.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like your Cold Start Injector Timing Switch. You can run a resistance check on it to see if it is in specs. If it passes, I would pull it out and give it a good cleaning as I have seen them have a crust from hard water build up on them and cause hard starts in cold weather.

95_n130

So I should expect some antifreeze to come out if I do take it out? And I some how lost the repair manual so dot out happen to know what the resistance should be?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

You will lose some fluid when you pull the sensor. A Haynes Manual will have the test for the sensor. I just bought a Haynes Manual for another car that I have and it was $26 for it. A part store can order you one and usually have it in a day. You will see several mention the Factory Service Manual and they are good. I have a FSM but use my Haynes 95% of the time. Even in the FSM it says it is for more in depth trouble shooting then most will ever need to go.

My FSM has it mistakes in it and is not always the best for some things. I do like having both manuals but the FSM is getting hard to find and can be expensive. A Haynes will work great for you on this test and what is needed to do. I don't have access to my manuals at this time or I would post them up for you.

95_n130

Okay but hey thanks for your help I'll keep you posted on what I come up with

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Okay. Welcome to Yotatech.

95_n130

Thanks and Okay so thanks to second shift life I'm up late lol but tested the starter timing switch I got 0.04 cold and the injector I got zilch for a reading using 20k ohm setting for both but I looked inside of the intake cuz I took the injector out to see if it needed to be cleaned after testing it and the inside was wet with gas and smelled strong with gas too

kcaudill

Here is everything you need to know.

http://www.lcengineering.com/LCNewsl...m_medium=email

95_n130

So I checked every thing agen this morning my fuel start sender is at 40 ohms injected is at 0 and I checked the coolant one and I'm getting 8.56. Started her up same thing it will start till the battery is almost dead. Checked the codes and I'm getting 51 wtf I replaced the tps