87Roxanne

well.....FUEL PUMP was the problem!! (ill still fix my windshield leak before it eats up the COR. hehehh) I dove it to work on tuesday because of the rain, and did not make it back,.. .... i kept jumping the terminals and i literally heard and felt the pump slowly squirm its last whirls..... it was quite a noticeable change in sound (weaker and not constant). Any ways i started teardown yesterday! Bed came right off, an so did the pump, easy fix.! (feel like driving arround without the bed for a while! hehe, since i lost the manpower to help me put it back in.. ) Thanks everyone!! i will post some pics....its taking for ever. i have to go!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Congratz!

BTW, .... there is ALWAYS a way with the will to do it(it, meaning, 'lifting big things by yourself', hehe).... I've made up some crazy hoists in my garage.... You don't have anything to roll the rig and bed underneath, then use what's above you as a hoist point?

87Roxanne

here are some pics.....for some reason this is as big as i can post them...

Chastin513

i am also having a similar problem with my 93 3.0l first off when warm my truck seems to idle off at times being 500rpm here 750, 800 (made sure timing was right) and second i have a weird no power situation it misses and basicaly falls on its face. seems to be towards lower rpms mostly also doesnt do it all the time but when i give it WOT that turbo kicks in and i gained 100hp every time. heres what ive done so far 2 new fuel filters, plugs checked em seems like its running a little lean, wires cap and button, igniter, then checked and also re adjusted idle screw and the tps with 4crawlers Cheap Tricks TPS adjustment, i first went to adjust the tps position since i took it off before reading, and i couldnt get the ohm meter to go to infinite while rotating the tps on the throttle body it would go between 5.80k (5800) ohms i beleive and down to about 5.15k +/- a few tenths but it never dropped out or fluctuated oddly went up and down in numerical order, which i dont think is even a right reading at all to begin with. i even tried to do some of the other tests with where i thought would be close to where it was before i took it off the only one i got was the WOT test #4 but all in all my readings were between 5k and 6k ohms im assuming this means the tps is bad? i just want to see if im going in the right direction... i doubled checked 3 and 4 times to make sure i was testing the right pins and i know my multi meter is good just got it a few months back 10 year warrantee from snap on

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Chastin....

I read it 40 times, too! hahaha... And ended up realizing I was testing it on the wrong setting on the meter. 2K is the best setting, I believe, IIRC, ... because nothing should read past that, ya know? I believe ya,.... you're doing it right.....

I'm not VERY familiar with the 3.0... but many sensors are still there, right? .....So, with the multi-meter.....have you checked the Coolant Temp Sensor? MAF? Did you possibly install the TPS w/out first adjusting the stop screw? (Not sure if the TPS can be installed on the wrong sides of the driving tabs... I thought I'd read that happening one time, but that's a real stretch here, hahaha)... CAT 100 years old? When you changed the filter.... did you flush it really well on the 'before and after' filter sides? I didn't... and something broke loose and wound up right in my injector #2(NOT EVEN likely, as it'd be far less intermittent on your end).

Sorry to hear.... I got a "bogging down to 500RPM only on restarts when fully warm" gremlin at the moment... WANNA KILL IT, SOON! haha.

Best wishes.

Chastin513

i did adjust the stop screw first bottomed out and then 1/4 turn more. then i did my readings, no cat, newer exhaust 02 looks like it got put on with exhaust (previous owner bought about 8 months ago), as for coolant temp i would think it would wanna launch at a light with the idle going nuts (had this happen on a camaro lol) but i will test both of them to be sure.

Chastin513

vaf passed the test and if im correct the ecm coolant sensor is the one prong sensor in the back of the engine driver side? with engine barely too hot to touch but not yet operating temp while using a cleaned off intake manifold ground wire for ground my resistance reading of the sensor was a little over 300 ohms.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey man, ....

to be honest, NO CLUE off hand where the CTS is on the 3.0.... Nor if it's in diff locations on different years.... Usually bolted to the intake and I wouldn't think 1 wire... My 87 22RE is even 2 wire/2 post with a connector that looks similar to an injector connector, etc., ...just smaller, but WITH a retainer pin/lock clip as well, like the AFM/TPS/Injectors have, etc.

Not sure off hand if 300ohm is right or not. On mine there's a sliding scale for 20*F all the way to 220*F or so? IIRC mine measured out at around 1.4K Ohm at 75*F and at operating temp was around 6-7K Ohm? Maybe it was reverse, can't remember off hand... Can't even remember if it's 1ohm or 1K ohm, lol.... LONG DAY....don't have the book in front of me, etc. Should all be in even the Haynes... And sure, its' not even 'LIKELY', I can't know that... just good to rule out the "usual suspects" for surging/idle issues/high idle, etc., ya know? Nothing better than a good P.O.E., right?

What's the book say, Chastin? Are you within specs? Obviously you knew you were within specs with the VAFM, right? So I guess you DO have the book there.. nvm! haha... TOLD YOU I WAS TIRED lol.

These gremlins drive ya nuts, don't they?????

ksti

Is this possibly what your looking for?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey MONKEY! WREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEECH! Just givin my monkey friend a holla in Spider Monkeyanese! Sorry...

OK< NO, .... not what 'I WAS' looking for, anyhow... I was wondering if he'd checked the 'coolant temp sensor'... which I am not sure on the location thereof on the 3.0. He said rear/driver side, I think? That seems more likely... I thought it would be, like the 22re, closer to the throttle body?

ksti

My bad, back of motor red arrow CTS. Its not easy to see it. Image courtesy of MudHippie
Hey Chef

Chastin513

well from what i read on the other posts in here one is for the ecm temp and i got confused on if it was the one in the back (where i was talking) or the one in front of the intake by the fuel rail because the other is only for the temp guage which that one seems to be working correctly. and i do have the book but it only talked of one temp sensor and im not sure which it is for nor did it have resistance specs. and yes it is very annoying lol

Chastin513

ok so i did have the right one (thanks ksti) im going to research resistance specs later im thinking its withn spec 300ohms first time and an hour later it was right at 400 ohms

Chastin513

mind you this was warm temps but not yet operating temp

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Chastin...

Yeah.... very annoying. But, to be clear.... Coolant Temp SENDER is not what I'm speaking of... NOTING to do with the gauge temp. The gauge temp sender could be totally broken and I would guess still run the same. The Coolant Temp SENSOR actually has a fairly dramatic effect on these motors. You probably know all that, just making sure it's clear And sure, as to your former post... "It MAY VERY WELL not create the type of symptoms you're experiencing... I just don't know. I just know that when mine was bad... I had some Bogging and such, because it would send wonky readings/changing how the ECU reacts to engine temp via fuel delivery, etc. ???? lol. Not sure on your 3.0... lots is similar... But IIRC, the 3.0 does NOT have an injector resistor, etc., etc.... Things that Mine does that can effect symptoms dramatically. Different injectors on yours... Different Cold Start components, different EGR stuffs...

Not sure, but my buddy just went through some 'no power' issues that led back to a bunch of badly corroded VSV's and EGR ports being COMPLETELY plugged up, etc. On his 3.0 btw... And he had LOTS of plugged up vacuum ports in the end... Some with 100% blockage.

I HATE reading through the FSM "TREE" breakdown for troubleshooting... It's often MIND NUMBING! haha... But usually, when I get through it a few times/and with a few tips from others... I eventually get it and I'm able to at least pin something down in relation to 'tracing back from Z to A until the culprit is found'... Most of those testing procedures just require a multi-meter and some a fuel pressure gauge/vacuum gauge AND vacuum pump... YOU'LL FIND IT! Hang in there, man!

I'd start with that section in the FSM, fo sho! lol... Troubleshooting/"Low Idle or Stalls"/.........and start climbing your way DOWN the tree til you find that bastage gremlin!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> My rig had an issue that seemed similar to your last post.... That 'clicked' when i read that........

When I would start my rig, cold, it would PURR.... Well, around 90*F or so, "about the time I begins to exit OPEN LOOP and starts feeding off multiple sensors, etc.".... it would BOG DOWN, terribly... Want to stall. I would take off from a stop like that... BAHHHHHHHHHHHHHG-BOOOO-BAAAAAAAAH, then suddenly, as I hit 2500RPM or so, "BAT OUT OF HELL!"... It would do this for a couple times into 2nd gear... And by then, I'm assuming because it was reaching oper. temp by then,... it would come out of it and be fine! THAT ,<<<<< , WAS MOST DEFINITELY my TPS being out of adjustment. ANOTHER time something similar happened... It was the AFM, which oddly, with a SLAP on the cover, corrected itself and never returned.

I'm really starting to think that I might just have "Y" connector issues in my wiring harness to the injectors... But I'll rule that out or not in the end, right? I'm JUST RECENTLY having an issue with the rig bogging down to 500RPM... ONLYYYYYYYYY ON RESTARTS WHEN FULLY WARM! lol.... Which doesn't seem 'Y' connector related to me, at all. Trying to burn through this tank of Costco Gas, just to rule THAT out as well... But I believe I have a sensor/or/EFI/or/FUEL/or/IGN/or/WHATEVER related problem, too! haha.

Chastin513

hmm the only thing that comes to mind when you say bogs down at warm restarts is the fuel rail getting too hot or whatever and getting aerated i know on the new paccar engines we got in our kenworths at work after changing fuel filters it sounds like the thing is going to explode and most definately bogs down until it works all the aeration out of the injectors and injection pump lol surprisingly enough i havent had one die on me yet gladly not like the 2008ish cummins isx which i hate they lose prime so easy thankfully easy to get reprimed lol. but i think im going to try to change the tps because all my readings were basically wrong also come to think of it when i cross over that wire in the diagnostic box to check/change timing my truck doesnt idle down or change at all isnt it suppose to?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

YES< it is supposed to! You're right on that one being a sign. Jumper TE1 and E2 for setting of timing... The motor should drop down a bit while you set timing... Then pull the jumper and it comes back up.

What I was gonna suggest for the TPS was... have you just disconnected it and run it? It should idle up a lil(cuz it goes into open loop again, basically, and dumps all kinds of fuel to avoid 'lean' PAPOW! lol..... IIRC< anyway, lol)

See if disconnecting it smooths things out just for the hell of it... I mean, if you're going to pull it pretty soon anyway, you'll have to disconnect that clip and "Pull the Plug", literally, anyway, right? hehe.

Yeah,.... I've not had time yet to check... But one of my suspect things in my bogging down, aside from possibly being TERRIBLE BATCH of Costco gas.... Maybe my EVAP system has an "OOPS"... like the Charcoal can... It's been hissing at times, making strange leaking of air bubbles sounds... Have the FSM testing procedure printed out... just no time yet to test it. (No excuse, really... "remove, hook compressed air to it at 45#... flush out, check to see, yadda yadda, lol"... I'll get to it soon, just to rule it out/verify it's bad.... Cuz I've heard they can cause BIG problems, even failing smog! ) Thanks for the input! I'll dig into that a lil

Chastin513

ya when i jumper those pins if i remember right it did nothing and i was wondering why because i did have a code for some ig or ignition something code 14 or 15 maybe but i changed the igniter and the code went off and yea i did unplug it and run it like that it did smooth out the idle was a little above 1k rpms which is the closed loop like you said but i didnt drive it so idk if it fixed the other problem, but hopefully its the problem im gonna order it sometime this weekend and thanks bunchs for your help!