fissure333

i've got brand new Denso O2's, mine's Cal model takes two special ones, sitting in my garage ready for install. just gotta do some welding at the bungs. i bought them last month thinking that they were the culprit. she seems to be runing a little lean too. guess i know what i'm doing this weekend.

87Roxanne

i gave my honda xl 250r a break, an drove the beast arround: sputtering is gone and turbo lag as well.....go figure....
my tps was adjusted 100s of times, but it always seems like you can do better....yotachief, how do you bench test the tps? since i still feel a little rough idle..

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I had somewhat of a similar situation. Wound up being the #1 fuel injector connection. If it is my guess would be the #1 just be cause it is the least protected. Probably bumped it when getting to your fuel filter. I know you did the filter a year ago, but maybe doing some other maintainace or just the wind blowing under there.

Try having it running and moving your injector connections. Also you can treat it like a non firing cylinder and disconnect one plug wire at a time. You know your plugs are getting fire so it will be an injector. Moving the connectors will let you know quick if it is loose, as it will cut out. If it has good connections it wont cut out.

Mine was making connection at times and other times it wouldnt. Giving an increase in power and loss at othe times.

Hope this helps.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey 87Roxanne, ...

Well, I'll get to that, but first, ^^^ exactly what the book tells you to do, first, on testing for injector connections("Wiggle each connection at the back, where the wires go in and check for any variations in how it runs".....Not word for word, but you get the point, lol)

Second, it's REALLY hard to guess what "a lil rough" is to you, compared to me, ya know? A video would really help if you could

Third, I'm NOT saying you need to adjust it. But, if you've not done it according to "4crawlers Cheap Tricks TPS adjustment" page, than I would just be sure it's in specs. If you've not done that yet, here ya go;

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

Fourth, a rough idle could be anything, really, Roxanne, from an out of wack AFM, TPS or acting up Coolant Temp Sensor, .....to timing(mechanical) effecting burn/vacuum, ....to vacuum leaks, .... to EFI-otherwise related components like the 02 Sensor, Faulty ECU, etc. For example, ...I chased my tail for a months, off and on, til a local Guru ran my rig on propane, taking the EFI and all sensors and injectors out of the picture for a test, then coming to the conclusion that "Your CAM is toast, no doubt in my mind, especially if you're getting the lash right, etc."(which I'd done 5 times!) So we swapped out the CAM with a new 261 and it helped DRAMATICALLY..... but other "top end" mechanical issues like the orig. builder re-using the orig. valves and guides, a couple tired valve springs, .... and even those things were highly masked at anything else but idle, ...... thus, more chasing of my tail.

Some quick questions....

1. Are you having any "throttle response" issues?(think you said, "NO", just wanna make sure)

2. When you hold it at 3K rpm while on the freeway, byways, whatever, ...is it hesitating/intermittently losing full power?

3. When you come down a hill or let of the gas from 3K in 3rd coming down a hill.... any misfiring?

4. When you're starting up, any backfiring?(or at any time, for that matter)

As far as 'bench testing' the TPS, .... all that requires, really, is pulling the air tube elbow, pulling the four throttle body mounting bolts/nut, pulling and quickly plugging the coolant lines to T-body, pulling vacuum lines from T-body and then pulling it off. Lil tip, ....when you pull all those things off, leave on the 'REAR' coolant line that's somewhat hidden until you get the T-body off a bit, then pull the hose off the T-body. Obviously, as well, ..... disconnect the connector off the TPS..........This way, you can ADJUST the TPS if necessary MUCH more easily(it's nearly impossible if you have factory screws, as the thermostat housing is in the way). Just trust me when I say, I'm not the only one who had to do this a couple times because I didn't read the instructions VERY carefully. Lil things like "then tighten ONLY the upper screw, make the second adjustment, etc."<<<(not sure it's word for word, just an example, lol). Also, even the location of the placement of the feeler gauges get's done wrong, VERY often. The biggest "Oops, I messed up" comes from "how to use the Multi-Meter".... So just read the instructions several times, IF, AS I SAID, your 'TEST' comes out all wacky! Believe it or not, my original one got damaged due to me cleaning the t-body with the TPS still attached..... but otherwise, after 257K miles, it was STILL DEAD ON!(ok, I should say, "It was WITHIN RANGE!" hahaha.

Best wishes, 87Roxanne, .... and again, a video, maybe, demonstrating the 'level of rumble in that jungle' might really help, as well as answering some of the questions I posted?

Have a good one!

PS> its' CHEFyota, ....I'm not a Chief of Police, I'm definitely not an Indian Chief and I don't play for the Kansas City Chiefs hahahaha. Just messin..... it's common, and I really don't care, ...just don't call me LATE TO/WITH DINNER! lol.

fissure333

installed the new denso O2's and no more invisible turbo. decided to do the valves and timing while i was at it.

87Roxanne

hey chiefyota 4x4, thank you very much for you detailed answers! sorry its been months since that, but i just somehow missed the answer....maybe because a few days after i started the thread, i was on my way to work and BAM! the sucker started sputtering so bad, it wouldnt get pass 1st gear..... anyhow, it turned out to be a bad ground on the battery...

well the reason i checked back in is because today. I was driving arround and suddently it started sputtering BAD, no power, well i pulled over. reset the ECU and fired right back up.... while looking around the engine bay, Suddently there it was again: started chocking bad! could barely keep up the engine going until it died....Reset ECU again and went on for about 4 miles until sudently i had to pull over because it could not keep up an idle nor throttle. I have a spare AFM. swapped...nothing....Spare coil and igniter.....Nothing.....Once on the side of the road again. The engine would start then immediately die. My buddy towed me down by his house where now it wont start at all....Cranks only.
Well it felt like no more fuel or something. Got gas... so i jumped the wires B+ and Ft, (something like that) with the ignition on the ON position to bypass AFM signal and do NOT hear the pump go on. Shouldnt i be able to hear is work? if my memory recalls, years ago i tested it out, and i could hear a hissing sound like from the tank...
Could the the COR have to do with it??
Any help fellas would be awesome!

also, ECU wont give me any codes...

87Roxanne

sorry yotachef!, hehe i said yotachief again!!

yotaman85

sounds like your ECU took one.. try finding a replacement...FYI my 88 started doing this after i rolled it, i replaced everything from the radiator to the tailights and it would not run, it was some bad wire somewhere in the truck that did not want to be found. i hope yours is not the same.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Please don't start multiple threads on the same topic and watch your language.

Thanks

:wabbit2:

sherminator866

i would just pull the pump and try it. mine would drive then spit and sputter and start to die, then it would just take right off. the pump was fairly cheap and not too hard to do. fixed my problem. it sounds like your pump crapped out to me on this one.

87Roxanne

thank you for the check up. I figured since this thread was about a different issue in the beginning, i would properly label a new one... sorry. thanks for the responses, i will probable check the pump, spray some starting fluid to see hat happens. Any further comments would be greatly appreciated.

87Roxanne

thanks sherminator, i will not be ale to get to it until tomorrow or so...since its stuck across town.... riding my XL250r around on 30-40 degree weather is a blast! So it is possible for a pump to start failing gradually instead of just suddenly quitting? How do i test the COR for proper operation? Also the fact that jumping terminals +B and Ft wont kick in the pump in ON position means that pump is out or maybe something else?
thanks again folks

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

If you're bypassing the pump, .....are you doing it with the key 'ON'? (not sure on that, just throwing it out there)..... But if it's not kicking on during 'bypass', .... i would say the pump is toast/wiring to pump/from pump is bad.

87Roxanne

thanks chefyota, i thing ill try to get a pump in there tomorrow to see what happens....also i forgot to mention that when i crank the motor, i can hear the Circuit open relay clicking, assuming it is working right?

county89

I havent read every post but it sounds like what my truck was doin the other week. I got the valves ajusted, new pligs, wires, and distributor cap. Fixed everything until a nigth of mud riding and now somethin else is messed up.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Should be what it means, yes. SHOULD BE, lol. yeah, most likely.........

Now, I'm pretty sure, that even with the COR working... doesn't mean the pump is good. You could just run 12V to the pump(CAREFULLY/while out of the rig) and see if it pumps(you could even do the Bypass trick and see if you are getting 12V at the connector at all, ya know???)....or even put 12V to the proper pins within the connector of the pump(the yellow one under the fender).... Just to rule out 'wires'... I mean, why not be sure it's not wiring before you throw any more money at it, ya know?

Best wishes, hope you find it quick, man! Pesky Gremlins, ...blech! lol.

87Roxanne

INTERESTING....so today i got a chance to go across town where the truck is, and begun the tear down for the pump. When i was about to disconnect the feeder hoses i reminded myself to check for power a the connector of the pump. Well i bypassed the sensors and turn the key ON and i had 12V +. Im getting power.! plug it back on, and the pump starts working ("wiiiii" noise).
Sweet, waited to regain some pressure and the it fired right up! since i didnt think i would have the time to finish the job, i just buttoned it up filled the tank again and drove home......
2 hours later, on my way to work, the truck made it 8 feet out of the driveway half way into to street.......AWESOME...... got out jumped the wires and no pump action..... is it the pump going out like that or maybe some wiring issues..... it never did this before.....can a pump act like that?

p.s. i was late to work cause i had to roll 5000pounds by myself out into the curb and steer....hehe
thanks

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Wow, aint it fun?

When it IS acting up.... are you hearing your C.O.R. kicking? Also, the main component that keeps the fuel pump on(as you know) is the AFM. Unplug it while the rig is running... you'll see! hahaha.

Could be a wiring issue, sure... and no, it's not 'LIKELY' that the pump would start going in and out........ But then, it could be corroded or something. Sounds more like what happened to me, when my C.O.R. was heading south....(Thing is, those aren't SUPPOSED to be intermittent, either)... But ask Roger of 4crawler...a Guru, .... I think he had a similar issue to mine, where it was corroded so bad that it WAS causing intermittent "refusing to start under what I thought were 'hot soak' issues.. but what ended up being 'HOT AS HELL C.O.R.' issue!" lol... My COR was so hot I could barely touch it when I pulled into O'Reilly and was then trying to leave/dig into what was causing it.... Well, it would cool down with the key out and then start again. All of this was caused by a leaking windshield.... My point, once again, for going into all that? ANYTHING can happen....and 'IT' usually does! lol.

87Roxanne

hummm.....i also have a small windshield leak i keep forgetting about....im gonna pull that COR out to see....
and yes, it clicks at all times! but doesn't men its making a good connection....i heard. Thanks for the recommendations. yeah ive done ha afm unplug once hehe..
it seems also that the cold weather is affecting the issue because if i recall only this winter i started noticing some fail starts in the morning: when the engine fires, but struggles for gas or air or something(assuming gas in this case) and it takes a few tries. yoho! tanks

p.s. how do i go about contacting roger.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey, ......

Mine had some issues when it rained for a long time..... That's what it was, for me at least.

Roger? I think you can go to 4crawler.com and hit the 'contact me' or whatever button.... shoot him an email. You could PM him right from here(didn't he comment here?)...... But I wouldn't go on and on with questions you can easily find on your own(not saying you would).... He has lots of pages of 'tech help', ya know? 'cheaptricks' stuff. He also has lots of good products....and probably very lil time to spare.... so make it count, ya know? hahaha.