Gevo

I would look for you, but my 4Runner is at the tranny shop at the moment. Maybe post a pic of what you have now, so we know exactly what you're talking about without trying ot figure out and keep track of all the hoses you are talking about.

92budgetrunner

I've been trying to but its not letting me for some reason and on the mobile version i can't find where to upload pics, I'm a newb for yoga tech, when I had my Tacoma I only got onto.custom tacos

92budgetrunner

Never posted pics but this is my $800 4Runner











This is the pick of the vacuum lines, the one that is capped and off to itself facing the firewall is where the vacuum line was hooked up that goes to the back of the motor then over to the purge side of the charcoal canister so then I moved it over to the (P) vacuum port on the throttle body going off this diagram




This was the factory intake tube customized by previous owner as you can tell


So I made this with left over parts from when I turbod' my IS300




This is the TPS plug that was on it then I cut it off because E2 and IDL pins were broke and wouldn't stay in and crappy splice joints

Gamefreakgc

Man, somebody didn't know how to work on a car... duct tape on the air cleaner? Yikes. Mine was bad when I got it but it wasn't that bad.

I read through some of your posts and the TPS fix will help it run better but I don't think it's the source of your issue. You can run it with the TPS completely unplugged, it'll just idle high and not run very efficiently.

92budgetrunner

The duct tape is just the tip.of.the iceberg from.what all I found, the vacuum hose on the TB that comes from the charcoal canister was hooked to the capped vacuum.port that is off by itself and was suppose to be hooked up where I have it in the pic, going off the FSM there is a way of checking the vacuum port its suppose to be hooked to and
ts port only has vacuum over 3500 rpm and I don't think when I was driving it I got to 3500 rpm and cold start time switch was busted

Gevo

$800, that is in pretty damn good condition if you ask me. That's a little better than mine and I paid $1400. Maybe a little less mickey mousing under the hood though.

Gamefreakgc

The fun part about these sorts of things is that once you hook it back up the way it should be, all these other errors pop up on why they avoided fixing in the first place! So if you leave issue A it alone it runs bad, and if you fix issue A then issue B & C pop up and it runs even worse. Fun stuff. My truck had a busted cold start injector switch when I bought mine too. The connector was fused to the switch somehow and they pulled so hard that they ripped the thing in two. But instead of fixing it, they puts the destroyed guts back in and never touched it again. Lovely.

92budgetrunner

Oh yea I still feel I got a great deal on a running 4 runner and technically driving until I go up a good size hill when warm BC when I loaded it.on a.trailer the way I had to park the trailer it was already up hill the driving it onto it was pretty steep but it was cold and.had no issues and wasnt.going fast I also noticed the speedometer wasn't working haven't tried it since I fixed the TPS plug, tail lights, ˟˟˟˟ty injector splice, added 6ga wire to all the grounds ( still wanna run a couple to the frame), blew out the charcoal.canister, moved the vacuum.line from the TVV, replaced the vacuum hoses from Tue 3 valves on the passenger fender well, replaced the distributor cap and rotor, replaced the cold start injector time switch, fixed the duct tape intake, put small zip ties on all vacuum.lines, fixed Tue break and.short in the trans temp sensor wires, all the stereo wires were cut and stripped back and.just laying in there touching all kinds of metal, still have to put in the.new efi water temp.sensor and new fuel filter and that iseverything I have done since I last took it for a test drive

92budgetrunner

With your busted CSTS what was it doing when you drive it?

Mine was the same but RTVd' back together it came apart (plastic plug from the.brass sensor

Gamefreakgc

When warm it ran just fine. Where I live it rarely drops below 30 overnight so only a few weeks out of the year when it got real cold, it was hard to start the next morning and would be sluggish until the engine warmed.

I paid $7 for it at the local yard (tested first with multimeter) compared to $300 from a shop, and $250 from Toyota. Mine was really hard to take out though, you'll need a 3/4 inch socket (my metric ones didn't fit right?) and in my case, a long torque wrench. Dunno why it was so hard to take out.

92budgetrunner

My cold start time switch


I already got it and changed it, the 22re is the same part number and I.got mine for $5.67 at pull apart and its a 22MM socket

92budgetrunner

UPDATE!!
So I was driving around as was well at warmed up temp going up.and down hills made a turn was on a very slight incline and it cut out for a sec then.back.in then died, put it in N started it moved the shifter to R and about mid shift died, then couldn't get it to start in N only P, then.I backed up and when I got a decent rate of speed clunk died well then I was trying to pay more attention to see exactly what it was doing and.it was kinda like I was out of gas but after it died that last time all I could get it to was cut out and not die but after it cut out I'd let out and it would pick back up in idle, what is stumping me is it dying in.mid shift going to R and D it is very intermittent never seen the issue at cold or cool engine, I have replaced the fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, cold start time switch, ignitor, and went through and cleaned and add larger ground.wires from the engine to body then on the passenger side I added a ground.from body to frame, changed the vacuum hoses on the passenger side of engine and double checked all by the FSM and vacuum diagram, I have ruled out that it only does it on a hill, and like I said its like its running out of gas but has a puff of dark smoke when it restarts but the dying in mid shift is what is stumping me and still no Check engine light

Gamefreakgc

There's another thread that's recent (I just commented on it) with the OP having issues with it dying as well. Sounds similar in that it seems to be a fuel delivery issue which normally does not throw a code like you are experiencing.

92budgetrunner

The OP?
And that's what I thought but what would cause mine to die.mid shift intermittently going to R or D from N or P and when it first died it started in N but everytime it died after that I had to put it in P