Help tracking down a bad wire
#1
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Help tracking down a bad wire
While 'wiggling the wiring harness' the engine died out, and wouldnt start again. I just assumed that another fuel injector connector popped off, and said screw it.. Parked the truck and ordered a whole new set of connectors.. I just finished replacing all the FI connectors, as well as the cold start connector.
Got all excited, jumped in the truck and turned the key... same freakin issue as before I started... the engine rotates, but doesnt start.
I checked the standard stuff, fuses, Main EFI Relay, fuel pump, etc. Fuel pressure is being built up in the tank, the relay clicks when the key is turned, I can hear the movement in the cannister (with stethoscope), etc.
So apparently this issue wasnt related to the FI connectors like I had suspected.
As I mentioned, the relay clicks, and it passed the ohm meter test.
I checked all the fuses 3x with a ohm meter.
The CEL will NOT turn on, it used to work before this issue appeared. When I turn the key, all the lights go on, except the CEL. I tried the ecu jump to read the codes, nothing... I checked one end of the test connector, and it has proper ground.
I checked the block of the ECU, and it is properly grounded. All the wires/connectors seem properly attached.
So, has anyone had this issue? Any idea what to look for?
Got all excited, jumped in the truck and turned the key... same freakin issue as before I started... the engine rotates, but doesnt start.
I checked the standard stuff, fuses, Main EFI Relay, fuel pump, etc. Fuel pressure is being built up in the tank, the relay clicks when the key is turned, I can hear the movement in the cannister (with stethoscope), etc.
So apparently this issue wasnt related to the FI connectors like I had suspected.
As I mentioned, the relay clicks, and it passed the ohm meter test.
I checked all the fuses 3x with a ohm meter.
The CEL will NOT turn on, it used to work before this issue appeared. When I turn the key, all the lights go on, except the CEL. I tried the ecu jump to read the codes, nothing... I checked one end of the test connector, and it has proper ground.
I checked the block of the ECU, and it is properly grounded. All the wires/connectors seem properly attached.
So, has anyone had this issue? Any idea what to look for?
#2
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Anyone happen to have a check procedure/pin out for the ECU?
Basically a 'pin 1 on connector 1 should be x volts, pin 2 should be y volts' etc. Im guessing that would help me figure out which connections are bad.
Basically a 'pin 1 on connector 1 should be x volts, pin 2 should be y volts' etc. Im guessing that would help me figure out which connections are bad.
#3
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This honestly sounds to me like a dead ecu...but...
engine and year...?
Edit..
This is for an 89-95 22re
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ne/44engin.pdf
And you might wanna bookmark this...
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
engine and year...?
Edit..
This is for an 89-95 22re
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ne/44engin.pdf
And you might wanna bookmark this...
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
Last edited by scuba; 10-30-2008 at 02:35 PM.
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sorry, forgot to post the details, lol.
1986 toyota 4runner DLX. 22re engine, automatic, 4x4.
wow, thats dead on what I need, except wrong year, lol... If you got a link for a 86 I would be VERY greatfull.
1986 toyota 4runner DLX. 22re engine, automatic, 4x4.
wow, thats dead on what I need, except wrong year, lol... If you got a link for a 86 I would be VERY greatfull.
Last edited by mnmontana; 10-30-2008 at 04:17 PM.
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there is no spark, no fuel, etc... the ecu isn't being used at all. the reason for the pinout, was to see which wire/connector is bad, I got about 70 wires that are suspect, lol... trying to narrow it down a bit.
#7
I know you said you had power and ground at the ecu, but make sure the ground wire junction that bolts to the intake plenium is actually there and tight. (it is suppose to be near the fuel return hose).
Also double check the EFI fuse, and make sure the fuse is in the right location in the fuse box.
Don't waste your time with any other diag. until you know the ecu is really powered and grounded. That ck eng. light needs to illuminate with key on, engine off.
Also double check the EFI fuse, and make sure the fuse is in the right location in the fuse box.
Don't waste your time with any other diag. until you know the ecu is really powered and grounded. That ck eng. light needs to illuminate with key on, engine off.
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TX for the help guys, I found the FSM, and starting at page 199 is the test procedure to check the ECU.
Damn thing is fried apparently... it failed 3 seperate sections of the test, all 3 said 'Fail=Replace ECU' and passed the rest of the tests.
Also what is wierd... my ECU says '22r' on it, not '22re' as I would suspect since I have the 22re engine. So I guess replacing isnt the end of the world... just another chunk of $$$ burning.
Damn thing is fried apparently... it failed 3 seperate sections of the test, all 3 said 'Fail=Replace ECU' and passed the rest of the tests.
Also what is wierd... my ECU says '22r' on it, not '22re' as I would suspect since I have the 22re engine. So I guess replacing isnt the end of the world... just another chunk of $$$ burning.
Last edited by mnmontana; 10-30-2008 at 07:34 PM.
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I found a new ECU, put it in.... same problems... wont start, check engine light never comes on, even when just turning the key on, or when jumping the connector to get the trouble codes.....
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O man, im ashamed to admit this..... but....
it was a fuse....
Yeah yeah, laugh it up... Kinda funny though, anytime a fuse has blown on me, it would just be dead... period, no voltage going through at all.
this time, 12v on one end, and 1.16 on the other.
When I was testing the fuses the first 3 times, I was using my green voltmeter, it beeps when there is contact.... so ALL the fuses tested out fine.
After getting the new ECU, and having the same problems... I couldnt find that voltmeter, so I dug up my spare POS one (which doesnt beep) out of my 'emergency toolbox', and checked it by voltage, and bam... there it was...
Had I not lost my normal voltmeter, id have still not found it.
Anyways.... Some good came of it, I learned a LOT about my wiring system, soldered/heatshrank/sleeved/fire proof taped every last factory crimp under the hood. Also re-made my harness, and completed sleeved everything and covered in fireproof electrical tape, PLUS... I got to goto the bone yard and grab more misc parts for my truck.
it was a fuse....
Yeah yeah, laugh it up... Kinda funny though, anytime a fuse has blown on me, it would just be dead... period, no voltage going through at all.
this time, 12v on one end, and 1.16 on the other.
When I was testing the fuses the first 3 times, I was using my green voltmeter, it beeps when there is contact.... so ALL the fuses tested out fine.
After getting the new ECU, and having the same problems... I couldnt find that voltmeter, so I dug up my spare POS one (which doesnt beep) out of my 'emergency toolbox', and checked it by voltage, and bam... there it was...
Had I not lost my normal voltmeter, id have still not found it.
Anyways.... Some good came of it, I learned a LOT about my wiring system, soldered/heatshrank/sleeved/fire proof taped every last factory crimp under the hood. Also re-made my harness, and completed sleeved everything and covered in fireproof electrical tape, PLUS... I got to goto the bone yard and grab more misc parts for my truck.
Last edited by mnmontana; 10-31-2008 at 07:26 PM.
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well congrats on the find, sucks that you had to go through all that just for a fuse but you live and learn right? Plus you gained a crap load of knowledge about your truck.
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I dont think so, I am pretty sure that the 86 and 87 are swappable only, I believe in 88 they did some major work on the emissions. I could be wrong though, so check.
Give it a look, if it works for you, and you need it, and your somehwat local to me.. PM me
Give it a look, if it works for you, and you need it, and your somehwat local to me.. PM me