the_ocho

Start off its a 92(late 91 so its the older motor) 4runner 5 speed 3vze. Ok so its been happening every once in a wile for the last month but the last few days has been really bad like every time i drive every few hundred feet and im really stressing about it because i drive 30 miles to work everyday

PROBLEM- Im driving down the road and the truck bogs down like its missing(you can hear a miss) or flooding out then starts shaking and sputtering and then starts to pop and what not from what seems like fuel being in the exhaust. When it first started like a month ago it would only do it between 2000 and 3000 rpm under load but now will do it at any rpm and rather its load or cruising at constant speed. But it can go a whole trip without doing it or it will do it every few hundred feet.

I can either let all the way off the gas and it will clear up or i can go to wide open throttle and it will bog down a lil more for a second then clear up and take off like a rocket, well not a rocket but as fast as a 3 slow can go...

I can be parked and hold it at 2K rpm and it will miss a bit every once in a wile.

There is no codes other than the random 52 that pops up every once in a wile.(on a side note i grabbed a knock sensor from a block in the Junk yard im gonna order a wire form the dealership tomorrow. i have heard of people drilling and tapping out the engine hoist bracket and putting it there but i dont have the resources to do that right now can i just plug it in a hang it somewhere away form moving parts?)

I put plug wires in about 5 months ago but just got new ones today and they didnt help. Cap and rotor and plugs(NGK) done right before i got the truck 6/7 months ago.

Motor is stock other than a ISR mod (iv checked for leaks and its all sealed up) k&n drop in and a 40 Series where the Cat should be that dumps out before the rear tire.

Let me know if you need any more info!

abecedarian

No difference between the 91 and 92 engine. It's not a motor, btw Engines convert potential energy to mechanical energy internally via controlled exothermic reactions such as burning fuel. Motors convert potential energy to mechanical energy via electro-mechanical means, i.e.: converting electric potential to mechanical motion. For lack of a better way to explain- engines burn fuel, motors use electricity.

Check the wiring / plugs around the igniter / coil for any corrosion, moisture or terminals not fully seated in the connector(s).
Also, with the engine running, jumper the TE1 / E1 terminals in the diagnostic check connector (behind the battery) and verify the idle speed changes when the jumper is inserted. If it doesn't, check the TPS.

the_ocho

You know I'm usually the first person to jump on the motor/engine definition lol I'm just not up for caring right now haha. and i thought there are subtle differences between the engines other than the timing belt tensioner or is that the only difference? i know i dont have the hydro tensioner. idk we are off topic

abecedarian

yeah. hehe.


anyhow, what about my second paragraph?

the_ocho

as for your second statement its 2 am and raining right now.... but i have tomorrow off so ill be doing anything i can to fix it after i get back from the junkyard.. im so ready to fix this truck it seems like every time i have money saved up for a mod this time lift and last time it was tires my tuck breaks and i have to spend money on that instead.

the_ocho

Okie dokie i messed around today played with some things and went for a drive and nothing was better. stopped at the gas station and figured why not i unplugged the TPS and there it was, she ran like a champ without it! now i gotta check/adjust/replace it woo. how much are they?

the_ocho

Whats the downsides of running without a TPS?

BoostinChick

If you buy new they are like $90+

If you can find a good one used they are around $25 or so.

4runner4life93

where is the tps im only 14 and i have the same problem with my first truck

to4menon4u

hey it looks like you have the same problem i had. my truck was kicking and sputtering at 2500 rpm exactly and it would only do it every once in a while. i was getting a code 52 also ( knock sensor ). it turns out the problem was a bad computer i got a used one off of ebay for $100 and my truck purrs. here is a link to my thread i ad made for the same problem
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-129882/

toyota4x4907

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...rd-tps-181445/ Pictures 4th post down. its the black, circular looking object on the right side of the throttle body in the first pic.

TNRabbit

You'll get little to no spark advance so power will be down a LOT.

abecedarian

And the ECU can't tell if you are depressing the accelerator to speed up (which will mimic the effect of the accelerator pump on a carb, adding fuel until the VAFM responds) so it has to rely on the engine RPM's and O2 feedback, or releasing it to slow down which would normally cause the ECU to lean the mixture out in order to save fuel and reduce emissions, and at times can cause the ECU to aid engine braking.