Just remember that they higher the spring rate (larger diameter the bar) the less flex you'll get, all things else being equal.





Fred

 

here is a thread with some picks of BJ spacers installed.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/...uestion-58081/

FredTJ is right, no need for bigger t bars unless your going to add significant weight to the front end or do high speed stuff.

 

Thats what I have heard Fred, I figure unless I had an ARB and a winch its not worth it, and even then it may not be enough weight.

 

Oops the OME are 23.4mm, sorry.

They would act like HD springs if you were to consider the added weight of say a winch, larger bumper, bigger engine as possibilties. Therefor being needed to keep from bottoming out too hard. And providing a longer working life than stock bars could provide under such extra-stress.

 

I forgot to mention we disconected those also

 

Yea that sounds about right.

 

Well guys heres an update....this is the hardest thing I have done to a vehicle I dont know if Im doing something wrong but my tranny was cake compared to this. First off I had no drop in my suspension when i lifted it up, then nothing really went according to plans. To get my CV axle out I had to remove the steering knuckle. Now I was trimming my A-Arm and the spacers dont fit, do you need to cut out a HUGE chunk to get them in there? The pics I have seen dont look that big of cuts but I took out a good ammount I thoght, and another thing, my upper A-Arm is resting at a / ish angle and the balljoint is at a \ angle and I cannot get either to budge to try and line up the balljoint+spacer to the upper A-Arm holes. WTF?! Sorry if this makes no sense its late Im angry and dirty and tired, Ill try and take pics but I think something is horribly wrong here.

 

Well, first of all, did you put a block under the upper a-arm? from your description, it sounds like you haven't.

If not, you want to take off the BJ spacer, put the BJ back under the upper a-arm, jack it up until it starts lifting the truck, and put either some wood, or a chunk of steel or whatever you've got laying around between the upper A-arm and the bumpstop area. Basically so when you let the jack down, your upper A-arm doesn't move.

Next, I had to take out an inch, inch and half to get mine to fit. Some take less, but it was a LOT of cutting in my case. Been fine for the last 2 years. Hopefully you are using a cut off wheel. These cost 4 bucks at the hardware store and work SOOOO much better. If you are already using one, sorry for the extra info.

I am baffled by the number of people needing to remove the steering knuckle to get out CV's. I'm not kidding. I realize that you probably still have the studs on there, but i did my first time, and it took a bit more working it, but they fell out without much issue. Now, with the studs gone, i can litearally pull the axle without removing the wheel or jacking up the truck. Never broke an axle on the trail, but a guy who had the same set up as me could change it in 12 minutes, start to finish. Gotta get those studs out.

 

Alright I will block the A-Arm I didnt do that step, And I dont have an angle or dye grinder, I have a dremel which is actually working pretty well. I am heading to the parts store right now to grab another couple cutting heads for the other side and to replace the zerk I broke when I started smashing the studs off the balljoint....

 

Holy crap batman!

Dremel? Brave man with WWWAAAAYYYY more patience than I.

Usually you can rent tools from most home depots or lowes. You will be done in 2 minutes if you rent a 4" grinder for a few hours from one of those places.

 

Alright the spacer is in shcok is on CV axle is torqued down now for the reassembly! Woohoo....then I get to do it all over again