OK he says the CV's are spinning, but are they both? What you should do to help your truck out anyway is install manual locking hubs and disable the ADD so that it is locked in all the time. This is an easy modification and you'll get improved mpg and less wear, but you will have to get out to lock your hubs!

 

X2!!! But...this is a fairly FOOL PROOF system...hehe sorry.... I would bet my left nut (Have too many memories with the right one, lol) That the diff is not locking in, as I said...never seen stripped cv's or flanges!

 

O...I guess it is possible that you have a broken cv joint....that would keep it from working.

 

Team420 is on the right track. The ADD hubs are always locked & I seriously doubt you stripped them, the CV's will spin even if they aren't LOCKED in. I say it's either the vacuum lines to the ADD actuator or a vacuum reservoir is leaking. The shifter controls the light on the dash & the vacuum controls the sleeve that slides over the drivers side axle to lock the CV on that side in. I'd take the actuator off the front drivers side axle tube & check it for function first & go from there, manual hubs won't help your problem at this stage.

 

yeah, but the weird thing is...he says the cv's spin...but not the wheel, given the logic that they are always locked to the hubs...there should be no cv movement without equal tire movement. And I too, doubt he stripped the cv splines...that would be somethin he'd have noticed while he was doing it. Now he says he rplaced bj's, if he did this without loosening the nut at the end of the cv, and pried on the lower control arm( you sometimes have to) he could have snapped something inside the actual joint of the axle(dont ask me how I know this..hehe).

 

The front drive shaft is spinning but no power to the cv`s. This is VACCUUM ISSUE. You can try bypassing the cannester in the pass side wheel well. Sometimes is get cloged. I had to clean mine out and reconnect, but you can bypass (Stealership mechanics are awsome with free work and advice on the olds girls) they did it for me and I worked fine, but I put the cannester back in because it engages faster. The hubs are allways connected so the issue is in the front diff. I will ost some pics of the bypass if you need.

 

Well this is the internet & things get lost in translation a lot. I had a similar experience with my wifes Isuzu trooper which uses a very similar ADD system as the Toyotas & I put her Trooper up on jackstands & engaged the 4 wheel drive & all four tires spun...guess what; when you applied the slightest pressure to the wheels they wouldn't grab (tested on a steep incline). No 4 wheel drive at all! It turned out that the transfer case wasn't fully engaging AND the ADD actuator wasn't sliding the sleeve over the axle.....yet everything turned when it was in the air.

I fixed the transfer case (push button 4x4 has an electric motor on the case - yuck) & I manually pushed the ADD sleeve over the axle & bolted it in place permanently & installed superwinch manual hubs (superwinch hubs suck)

The wifes Trooper now has four wheel drive. It's an optical illusion when you see that stuff spinning & it's really not connecting correctly.

 

the sleeve maybe could be not on all the way but i figured the cv's wouldnt spin if that was the case. im going to relook at both hubs tomorrow. and i dont think i stripped the cv and the flange because they both went on and fit perfectly. im going to work on it tomorrow and i will let you guys know what i find. thanks for all of your help if there are any other ideas please post. Thanks for everyones time i appreciate it greatly.

 

what i think happened is that you broke ONE cv and you put everything back together the right way but cause you have a broken cv its spining the cv but not the wheel!! just my .02cents and just a though maybe righ and maybe wrong but its worth looking at

 

Thats why I said to put in 4x4 and jack it up while running(just jack 1 front wheel at a time), and try to spin the wheels...If they turn, you would be able to see which parts is not working, if tire spins, but cv dosent..then the prob is in the hub, if the wheel spins, and the cv spins, but not the drive shaft...the front diff is the problem, if all spin....the transfer is the problem.

And these add hubs, have no actuator, the cv always spins with the wheel, the actuator is in the diff.

 

if you jack the vehicle up, while running, the tires are going to spin....unless of course you don't have it in gear & that won't show you anything.

As I said in the text you quoted I put the vehicle in the air, running & they all spun - very fast as a matter of fact! Too fast for you to reach your hand up there & try to stop them & that was no throttle @ idle but the set-up wasn't actually engaging & had no torque - it would move but that's it.

I suspect it was just the centrifugal force of the fluid moving that moved the parts but in all honesty I have no evidence based in fact as to WHY it all moved & appeared correct but wasn't. That's the reason I explained it & why I feel the jackstand idea won't necessarily help. But I do think your looking in the right direction.

 

yeah...dont put in in gear with only 1 wheel jacked up..lol...thought that would be obvious...but if it is running, the vacuum actuator should kick in, and if its working, you should not be able to spin the tires...they should be locked evenly.

 

Cv rebuild manual link.
Make sure your reassembly was 100% correct.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...l/frontaxl.pdf

 

Luciddream-

Are you absolutely sure you installed the snap rings on the outboard ends of the half-shafts? (installed after you have slipped them through wheel axle) If not, and you're trying to run the vehicle with the front lifted onto jack stands (so that the front wheels are hanging down with suspension travel), there's a very good chance the outboard end of the half-shaft will slip out of the flange (where the splines mate). Once it is out of the flange there will be no drive to the wheels.

For that matter, once you pull the half-shaft out of the flange, it is not likely to go in by itself when you put the truck back on the wheels. So it will "continue" to not work.

Note that the snap ring is a "do not reuse" item, and is commonly included with a CV boot kit. In your case, you might want to pick up a new pair (L/R) of snap rings just in case you've bent them up to now.

 

ok i got the same problem 86 4runner driveshafts cvs all spin except tires and u give gas they will spin but not to what the back ones are. Its up in air,,,,so has be hubs do they need cleaned? auto hubs...son took his g/f 4wheelin and they worked till he took it out of 4wheel....he came back wasnt nothin but mud on it couldnt see no paint just mud.lol....had take altenater off and clean cause wasnt charging full of mud...anyhelp would be great

 

it sounds like its not locking in at the hubs might need to pull apart and make sure there are not broken parts in there,