nate V

I cant believe it. I installed my Hella lights by buddy gave me the other day and now my alternator is dead. Im not too sure what kind they are but they definitely killed my power to my truck.
has anyone else had this happen to their truck or runner. I think this is like the 3ed alternator I have replaced on this truck in the past few years. What the hell.
Had them on other day coming home from school for like 30 mins and the next day the alternator started squealing like a pig.

ozziesironmanoffroad

question, is it an aftermarket alternator? if so replace it with a toyota one. and id get one of those 'battery tubes' they have for car audio to save your battery and stuff, and hook that up to em so its not that bad of a drain.

shaeff

i've had hella 550's on my truck for quite some time (stock 22re), and never had any problems. i see the voltmeter dip a bit with the blower motor on high, but that's it...

maybe look into custom installing an MR2 alternator. i haven't looked into it yet as i don't have the need for one at the present time, but here's the one you'd want:

the alternator you want to look out for is:
-1991 MR2
-2.0 Liter
-Turbo
-WITH Power steering

it has a max output of 135 amps, if i remember correctly.

ozzie: the capacitor you speak of isn't for constant use, it's more for keeping your high powered stereo from dimming the lights/drawing too much juice when you get those big bass hits from amplification. i doubt it'd work well in this application.

nate V

No to answer your question it was not an aftermarket one it was stock. Well I can add the I definitely should have put a really in the circuit and will do so when i get a new alternator on the rig. but wow I am really impressed with the speed that they killed it.

OSU4Runner

I've run all four sets of my Hella's at the same time for hours in the woods with no problems, 3 of the sets have 100Watt bulbs in them. The voltmeter doesn't even budge, even at idle. Think you've been getting some ty alternators.

superjoe83

it was probably more of a coincidence that the lights "killed" the alternator, it likely was on its last leg and the lights may have finished it off

mrtejman

did you install a relay when you connected the lights?

nate V

Touch what and when ???

Sounds like it was just the icing on the cake a bit doesn't it.
are there any better alternatives to the OEM alternator that anyone has had good luck with? I am leaning towards getting a stock one for the time being.

Jay351

Im thinking its a coincidence. On my truck, at idle with all 4 hellas, blower on high and reverse lights on,and wipers I can see my guage go down. But just running the hellas my volt meter doesnt budge.

How did you wire them?

frodin1

Can't you just get a rebuild kit? It sounds like it's just the bearings that decided to go.

Elton

ive run lots of lights on my other trucks never had a problem

nate V

Is a rebuild kit worth it? How much do they go for ?
To be honest I had not even considered it.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Usually just need new brushes:
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...nator_brushes/

Probably runs $10-$20.

notanymore

id say your alternator was on its way out already because adding an extra 110w of draw wouldnt kill your alt unless maby it was wired bad somehow.

nate V

Is there any visual difference that I would be able to identify to figure out what model hella lights i have?
I know that on the face it has the # 37.5...? what ever that means

GV27

I'm sorry, I don't mean to be mean and negative and all those things, but DANG there's a lot of misinformation in this thread!

1) Yeah, you should put a relay in the circuit to save the switch from burning up but how the heck would that make any difference to how much power the lights are drawing from the electrical system? I guess you might get a bit more resistance from the switch, but still.......

2) It started squealling - that's a belt or bearings. How the heck would a high current draw effect the belt or bearings?

3) How is a high current load going to kill an alternator anyway? You have a big-ass capacitor (the battery!) between the load and the alternator. A high load can kill a battery but not an alternator.

Your alternator going after you installed the lights is pure coincidence. Take this opportunity to install a beefed-up alternator if you want. If all you're doing is installing a pair of lights, however, you don't need it. If you want to install 8 high wattage lights, a CB, an inverter, a big stereo, etc. then definitely install the 135 amp alternator. And a beefy battery (Optima!)

Chris

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

A loose belt will squeal and under the added load of the lights, the alternator is harder to turn and makes a loose belt more likely to slip. If that is the case, tighten the belt up. If the belt is glazed or worn out, put a new one on. Squealing belt does not mean the alternator is bad. And if having trouble with replacement alts. consider where you are getting them from. I still have what is likely the original alt. that came in my '85, it still works fine, although it is now just a spare since I installed an upgraded alternator/welder:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...er/index.shtml

GV27

Yeah, I suppose you're right there. And if the bearings were on the verge of going out the new load could have also contributed to them going out a little earlier.......

nate V

The belt is definitely worn the hell out and was tightened up. I know it was the bearing causing the noise and that cant mean anything else good is going on inside there.
I have one from an 88 v6 and I was going to try and swap the pulg on the back of the alternator but on second thought that seems like a crap idea and i should just get a new one. BTW the switch never burnt out, the first 6" or power wire leading off of the buss block melted but didn't effect the switch at all. hope it didn't hurt the lights.
B4 you say it i know it needs a relay.......

nate V

Has anyone run a 4 cylinder alternator on a 6 cylinder engine???

I was looking at the specs for the two and comparing them and it seems that there is not a large difference between the two.
60 amps for the V6
70 amps for the 4 banger
This doesnt sound right to me....a 70 should definatly work in place of a 60 right???