Hey what headgaskets do you guys prefer? Toyota,Fel Pro, or other? I'm getting ready to change mine and wondered what was the best to get. Thanks

 

what engine...either way I'd run Toyota

 

i would say toyota as i have 170k on the stock head gasket

 

Oh yeah. I left that detail out.It's a 93 with the 3.0.

 

not sure about HG, but my mech used a felpro on the valve gasket after a valve job and they leaked after 2wks.....he ended up using Toyota....no charge, but I did have to bring it back which wasted a day.

I would go Toyota.

 

Definitely use a Toyota gasket, especially on something as crucial as a headgasket. I don't really know of anyone who has ever regretted using a Toyota HG.

 

FelproSUUUUUUUCKS.
Toyota OEM is OK, but no better than most descent gaskets. It's really just average.
Use Victor's Nitroseals. They're the strongest presssed type gasket you're going to find & they're only like $40-45 @ Napa/Carquest. Unlike the Toyota gaskets, the nitroseals are the same basic type consturction, but rated to a 12:1 compression ratio.
Ooooor get you some custom copper gaskets cut for $150-330. Just be sure to mill a metal safe finish on the heads & use a sealing agent to be sure the coolant passages seal.

Whatever you do, check the heads for warpage & have them milled flat. Only normally costs $50-100 for both heads.

 

Well... Toyota.

 

my HG came from enginbuldr in the kit he sells.

 

I found out from the dealer today my truck had the headgaskets changed in '97 under the recall. Also priced the headgasket or top end set as well. As much as I'd like to go with Toyota they cost too much. I may check into the Victos's Nitroseals, or roll the dice and get Fel-Pro.

 

The best deal I've ever found (& I run across it like 2 weeks after I put my nitroseals on my 3vz-fe - damn it) is from Clark Copper Head Gaskets.
They want $125-150 a set, but he needs gasket profiles first.

 

Consider this: it may be cheaper to use Fel-Pro now, but will it be worth saving the money when you have to do the same job again? I've personally heard stories of people w/the 22RE who have used the Fel-Pro HG and had overheating problems. When advised to replace it w/a TOYOTA HG, they did so and their problems disappeared! They tried everything too, like flushing the cooling system to changing thermostats: nothing except using the Toyota HG fixed it. That's why I always use toyota HG's, or I would use an even higher quality gasket. Now (thanks to Toysrme) I found out about these Victor Nitroseals, and I would go with that if I didn't already have the OEM gaskets. He knows what he's talking about, and I second his suggestion. Bottom line is I'd hate to see you get burned, so pleeease at least don't use FelPro.

 

Ya. In all honesty, I thought about using fel-pro's at one point on my car, then after reading post after post of every different kind of engine under the sun having problems with them.
Fel-pro gaskets were just a turn off. :\ I'm sure their high-end competition stuff is great, or any MLS gasket they make, but they are bottom tier for normal gaskets. :'(

 

I think I'm going to check into the Nitroseals. I found out my truck had the recall done in '97. So If I can get a better gasket than Toyota for less money that'd be good.

 

TOYOTA.

well, engnbldr's gasket is almost the same, and depending on your dealer, it may actually be you want something with a metal slip plate on the head side of the engine. don't ever cheap out on gaskets on an aluminum head engine.

felpro makes great gaskets for everything else though. their head gaskets are fine on an engine with an iron block and head(s), but they are crap when it comes to engines with alloy heads.

 

one problem with fel-pro is that many chain retail parts stores have got them to put their cheap off brand gaskets in fel-pro labeled boxes. I got burned on a previous vehicle by them

 

Fel Pro is NOT a quality gasket! The 3.0L is forgiving, but the 3.4L, which is equipped OE with multi-layer steel head gaskets and which has had head gasket issues in the past, is pretty serious stuff. At any rate, if you can machine the block and the heads, you'll be better off with any gasket.

 

Now the reason for this thread is weak headgaskets or heads, right? The HG's were replaced in '97 under the recall, but did you know under the recall Toyota wasn't required to replace all of the head bolts?(!) I think that's the reason there are so many repeat HG failures, so don't blame the gaskets themselves for blowing. The head bolts are a torque-to-yield fastener that stretch when tightened down, making them a one-time-use only. If you re-use them, you're gambling. BE SURE TO USE NEW HEAD BOLTS!! You can get them cheaper at parts stores (the dealer charges way too much). I think it depended on the tech that did the work and the willingness of the dealership to do the job right that determined if the recalled headgaskets leaked or not. My '92 truck with 181,000 never blew the head gasket, and I know for sure that it had the same HG since at least 30,000 miles. I had burnt exhaust valves, so that's the only reason I had to tear down my engine. Oh yeah, and be sure to give #6 exhaust valve maximum clearance. It may tick and tap a bit, but it won't burn out nearly as fast. Adjusting/maintaining valve clearances in the 3.0 is important to their longevity.

 

Save money and get a quality gasket set. Just log on to <engnbldr.com> ; e-mail them or phone them; Ask for Ted or Todd, both know their stuff. I was going to go with Toyota OEM for $279 list, $200 internet best OEM price until I use the Rock Gasket Set from engnbldr. We worked on a 94 4 Runner SR5 with the 3.0 V6 and used Top Line headbolts from the same supplier @ $29.00 for the set.

You won't be disappointed and glad you took a look at their quality. by the way, they answered a lot more questions just because they care about you.

Just my 2 cents, spend more if you wish, but mill the heads flat, and go with new headbotls TTY.

 

Good call Radyota! They say that torque-to-yield head bolts, which are designed to stretch and constantly exert elastic pressure pulling the head to the block, have a lifetime of three stretches. By this, I mean, they will withstand being torqued to their full elasticity then unsprung to a state of rest only three times while still maintaining their elastic quality, if conditions are ideal. At the factory, the machines that assemble the engines torque the head bolts down once just to warm the bolts, then again, then a third and final time. By the time you get your engine, the torque-to-yields are happily torqued fully. After thousands of miles of heat-up expansion and cool-down contraction, those bolts may lose their elasticity. When you pull them, they should definitely be replaced.