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I have a 1994 pick up with the 22re I removed the head to replace my timing chain and ended up buying a complete new cylinder head my question is i have cleaned my block the best that I can and it looks like there is still old head gasket material on still on my block but it feels almost completely smooth will will this make my head not seal should I try to remove move or put it back together
Last edited by Bakervaper; 04-25-2018 at 11:40 AM.
Looks like rubbing and/or corrosion pitting from the steel substrate of a previous head gasket.
Degrease the deck and head face with acetone, or lacquer thinner, and put it together. It should be OK. Retorque after two, or three hundred miles run.
I like to use a head gasket that has no slipper plate on engines like this, like the plain graphite ones supplied in Ishino Stone gasket sets I have purchased.
I don't really have any evidence that the lack of the steel slipper plate makes for a better seal on pitted block decks, but several engines I built that looked like this have held up.
Looks from your pics that everything is clean, and that you have chased the head bolt threads. Good luck!! Please respond with what you do, and the results.
Use some ZDDP additive in the break-in oil, and maybe the 2nd oil too. After that, any decent oil should be OK>
Thank you so much for responding I did chase the threads alreadly and I bought the oem toyota headgasket hopefully it holds up like the one your talking about on not perfect blocks my camshaft bearings and rocker arms had a lot of wear from the previous owner not changing oil near enough so I bought a complete cylinder head and new rocker arms and shafts I also used amsoil assembly lube I plan on using lucas break in additive too hopefully aftermarket heads aren't junk but thanks again for replying I really appreciate it
That's a nice clean-up job! I agree with millball that you shouldn't have any trouble whichever way you go. I don't think you need the zinc additive, but I don't think it would hurt either.
Once you get the head on, consider extending your cleanup to the rest of the engine bay. Nothing fancy; just spray some paint thinner on the firewall and wipe off the grease. You look like the sort that will appreciate it.
Thank you both for the quick responses I'm new to yotatech but you guys rock I feel a lot better about building it now I'm dreading cleaning the rest I swear it had inches of oil on everything but I will be cleaning more the water pump and oil pump are new I bought this truck a little over a year ago for 1,000 bucks but I have well over 3,000 in parts now and haven't even drove it yet I've rebuilt about everything on it I'll be happy to hear it run but thanks again
The (1993) manual shows 58 ft-lbs. http://web.archive.org/web/201211101.../7cylinder.pdf
I know next to nothing about the 22re; I could be reading the manual incorrectly. Or wyoming9 may know something (TSB? ) that I don't.
Scope my manual also says 58 ft lbs so that is what I torqued them too I should get a ot more done today I'm dreading the vacuum lines I wish there were good diagrams I could find
Baker - That's a sweet rebuild on the head. Looks beautiful and look forward to a review on how it runs. Did you rebuild the rockers or was it a complete kit from LCE?
Sorry for the delay on the update I only wanted to use the oem toyota headgasket and I bought 3 offine and everyone was bent in the mail so that delayed my project but to answer the last question I got my header and rocker arm shims from lce I bought a complete cylinder head from partsology its a DNJ it had the camshaft and valves already assembled I also bought new rocker arms and the rocker arm shafts from partsology and there also
DNJ I re used my rocker arm towers when I assembled my new rocker arm assembly I noticed all of my rocker arms wernt aligning with my valves so I ordered rocker arm shims from lce which delayed my build further and when they arrived they helped a lot but i had to grind them down to make them line up perfectly but I'm glad I took the time to grind them down to the correct thickness and make everything line up correctly it was a pain in the ass but it runs great I was worried about buying a aftermarket cylinder head for so cheap but it seems well made and since everything is in alignment I dont think I'll have a problem but thank you guys for all your help
65 lbs.ft., 62lbs.ft., 58lbs.ft....? Consider the condition of the threads? Corrosion, clean, not-so-clean, brand new, used how many times previously, factory, aftermarket, lube, no lube, real slippery lube, not-so-slippery lube...how do these variables affect the clamping force developed by the screw threads? What say y'all about that?
65 lbs.ft., 62lbs.ft., 58lbs.ft....? Consider the condition of the threads? Corrosion, clean, not-so-clean, brand new, used how many times previously, factory, aftermarket, lube, no lube, real slippery lube, not-so-slippery lube...how do these variables affect the clamping force developed by the screw threads? What say y'all about that?
Ya failed to question the accuracy of the torque apparatus, and the elasticity, or lack thereof, of the head bolts.
Clean as a tweeker could make the threads, slippery as a greased pig, and tight as the accuracy your instruments permit.
Well, you could just throw up your hands and say "so many variables." And then just leave your torque wrench on the shelf.
Or, you could say "somebody on the internet said the Toyota Factory Service Manual was wrong," and he thinks (but not sure why) that a much higher torque is required.
Or, you could just install the head bolts to the torque specified by the manufacturer.
65 is only 12% too high, so it might work. Probably. Maybe. But if you break a bolt, there is only one person you can blame. (Hint: it's not millball. it's not jj89.)
04-25-2018, 11:37 AM
