Well as a couple of you may remember, my 22re's rough running turned out to be the precursor to a head gasket on its way out, and now its time to replace it. so start off, what parts other than a head gasket set, do i need? I picked up a hayes manual from pep boys today, but its sorta vague on a lot of stuff.

 

When I read your title I thought hope he has a 4 banger cause we all know the nightmare the other motor could give a newb on a job like this. How many miles? If its close to a half million like most of us you might want to think timing cover, oil pump, water pump. Definitely upgraded timing kit.
Go to engbldr's site and get all what you need from him. Great prices and service. Might even want to think about a cam humm.. Good luck. Brad

 

theres 280k on the clock, but according to the guy i bought it from, the engine was just rebuilt about 1500 miles ago. now what "rebuilt" really means, I dont know, but he claims all new internals were put in

 

Well 1500miles you should be able to tell visually if the w/p,o/p and timing cover are new. Pop the valve cover it might even have a metal backed chain guide. So I would definitely open her up before making the order. I made that mistake on my rte and ended up buying 150.00 ARP studs that my truck already had. Damn it! that still makes me mad....

 

Well the water pump was one of the blue powder coated parts, and the bolts look new, I can't quote tell on the oil pump bit it doesn't look like 280k old. As for head studsare they bolts or studs, I was told I needed a head bolt set so are these different from the arp studs?

 

NEW DEVELOPMENT.

talked to my auto teacher about it today, and he'd put money on it that my block is cracked. that explains the ˟˟˟˟ty running and coolant burning until the engine gets warm. We both think that whoever rebuilt the engine just slapped new internals in and didnt have the block or head machined or anything, and something got tore up.

my mood right now:

But I have began to get into the engine, hoping by some wild chance its just the gasket. with just a haynes manual, basic wrenches, and some blue tape, heres where im at

mmmm i love milky oil

 

Bolts are fine I would get new ones there cheap. There's a theory in the rte world that studs helps keep the turbo from ripping the head off...

 

Hopefully its just a hg.

 

yeah im hopin so too. cuz if its not im gonna need to revamp my arsenal

 

A cracked 22RE block would be pretty bad, I can't remember the last time I've heard of someone having to deal with that. A cracked head would be more likely, keep us posted.

 

get the engnbldr head gasket kit w/new head bolts...id just about bet thats what it is.also,unless you have a paper trail...it probably wasnt rebuilt ,at least not correctly.

 

wrestled out my exhaust, check out the taco job welds

This was one of the exhaust leaks, cracked halfway around and broke, making it so I could pull the manifold and about 4 feet of pipe out from under the hood while the rest dropped down

This was where they welded it to the crossmember underneath, instead of just using hangers

bolt soldered to the manifold?! I had to chisel a lot of it off to get a socket over the bolt head

 

Hmmm, wonder what cylinder is the problem.........

 

Intake air chamber and throttle body off



all plugs tagged








my cat came out to chill haha



head ready to come off

 

and heres the guts. Ive never seen a blown head gasket or a cracked block so I honestly dont really know what im looking for here

Cylinder 4 is the gross one



Cylinder 3



Cylinder 2





Heres some more of #4






Suspect HG area

 

I forgot how ugly the stock exhaust manifold was until this thread.

Good luck with what looks like an absolute mess you have on your hands.

 

can anyone tell from the pictures if its a head gasket or the block? I dont wanna throw a new HG in and put it back together just to have to take it apart again. im about to just take the whole damn thing out and revamp it since I have that big gouge on the #4 piston

 

Block is unlikely, Toyota blocks are crazy strong, part of why they last forever. The piston gouge looks like timeing chain went at some point and piston hit valve = bent valve likely and bent/cracked rod possible? So, looks like new set of pistons and valves, but you might as well have the head completely gone through (unless the p.o. had the valves replaced after he threw the timeing chain). Head and top of block re milled is a must. I'd be thinking about a new long block only because I'd be obsessing about what else in the engine the p.o. ˟˟˟˟ up. You could "get by" on re-milling and valve job, but that piston looks nasty and I'd want a full rebuild. Good excuse to start throwing all kinds of performance parts at it, but that's just how I roll.

 

Why do you think its the block? Most time a head job and hg kit and your good togo. Unless it was knocking or something.

 

No knocking, but the cracked block would make sense with it going back to normal the warmer it gets. Block heats up, crack closes. It burnt up nearly all my coolant in a 15 minute trip too so its gotta be a pretty substantial leak