I need assistance replacing the hard brake line underneath the passenger side door along the frame of the truck. That is where the leaking is taking place. I've never replaced brake lines before and i've heard its an easy task. Im up to the challenge and can afford to buy the tools needed and parts. Can anyone walk me through the process? I'll be buying the lines from the local yota dealer, so i know ill get the right parts. What else do i need to get? I have most general tools available.

I just dropped my gas tank to replace the fuel pump bracket about two months ago, now i find myself having to fix this leaking hard brake line. I should've just got all lines (fuel and brake) replaced when the tank was out of the car. Bad decision on my part.

Will i have to drop the tank again to replace the line where this leak is? The leak is towards the middle of the truck, no where close to the gas tank. Also, is it one continuous hard brake line snaked all the way back to each caliper?

This is my first toyota truck, i'm unfamiliar with the design.

My gas tank is about half full of gas. I'd hate to have to drain it again.

Can you guys help me figure out the best option here?

 

The hardest part is that the brake and fuel lines run in the same areas and use the same clips at some points so changing one line can be challenging when there are 3-4 other lines in the way. You definately need a strategy before you jump in to this project for it to go nice and smoothe.

Another consideration is the connections. I needed to cut the damaged lines and use a socket to break the connections at the places where I was going to reuse a non-damaged line. Brake lines and fuel lines may be corroded so that the fitting and line are stuck to the point that you break the line attempting to twist the fittings. You may want to buy all the lines and just return the ones you do not end up needing to the dealer.

As far as what each line looks like, the dealer can show you with the catalog on the computer when you give them the VIN. Ask them to print these out for you to reference.

Another option would be to buy bulk brake lines and make your own. You would avoid having to follow the OEM routing but you would need to bend the lines yourself and make your own end forms (not impossible but you would need to buy or rent the right tools). This option would probably allow you to avoid dropping the tank or taking of the bed.

 

Yeah, do yourself a favor and get the lines from the dealer. They come pre-bent with all the correct fittings on them already. Take your VIN # in when ordering. Hopefully you don't have the rear ABS system, that has rear lines that are one piece all way up to the front end.

You will need to get the tank out of the way at least a few inches, I'd recommend using a tranny jack for that job. Probably could get by without draining the tank if you use a tranny jack. I'd also replace the fuel filter and fuel lines while you're at it, since they run together.

It's best to use line wrenches for fuel and brake lines.

Of course you'll have to bleed the brakes after. I'd recommend using a Power Bleeder for that. Be very careful if you use the brake pedal to bleed, you can trash the master cylinder pretty easy by going too far to the floor:

 

thanks everyone for your input. i called around to the yota dealerships this morning for estimates. prices were very high, $1275 for parts and labor. this is for all hard brake lines and fuel lines replaced. ill check around some other local shops to see what they can offer. it looks like i might have to end up doing this myself and saving hundreds of dollars. my car is non abs, so i hope that makes things a bit easier.

 

This is definately a DIY project if you have mechanic skills, some tools (line wrenches, vacuum bleeder (or a friend)) and free time.

 

FWIW- line wrenches are also know as 'flare' wrenches, and their ratchet related counterparts are known as "crow's foot".

 

I always called them tubing wrenches. Crowsfeet are not for flarenuts.

 

just doing this myself- I bought 3/16th" lines already flared with metric nuts from the local autoparts store. I replaced from the rear proportioning valve forward to about the middle of the gas tank. At the rear it fit right in the stock proportioning valve- up front I had to use a "double flare" tool to flare the cut end of the stock line. I then used a union to join the two pieces. My local auto parts store had all this.

Hope this helps.

 

fairly simple repair ... (brake line Flaring tool required)
I did this one for about $2.00 in parts ... problem is (with this one) tank had to come out .. so there was way more labor .

 

What kind of flaring tool or flare?

 

Instead of removing the tank and running the line between the tank and the frame rail, I fed my line more or less on top of the frame.

 

I didnt have time/place to do this job myself so I farmed it out to a shop that I trust.

They were slow... (I knew they were slow and they knew that the truck was not a DD)

They were $$$ (I paid by the HOUR) and it was no where near $1275....

If you dropped the tank once - you know what needs to be done there

If you get OEM lines (Its easier - they are prebent) its a bolt and go job.
You'll need flare wrenches but thats it as far as I can think of weird tools.

 

Depending on your setup you may need to lift the body off the frame on that side a little bit to get to some of the clips bolted to the frame. I would definitely buy the factory pre-bent lines so you can be sure that nothing is rubbing anywhere when your done.

 

just a brake line dbbl flare tool ..

unfortunatly , there not metric , which the lines are .. but they still work , as the pic depics .. I have used them for years ...

 

i think i may try what slacker has done. From that picture it looks like he repaired his in sections? I just need a temporary fix til i get a chance to do the whole hard line system, fuel and brake lines. Slacker, what did you use to cut the line that was damaged, so you didn't mangle the line it when you cut it?

And when doing this repair , whether using Slackers method or doing it the best way by completely doing all the lines with all new oem lines, what is the procedure with the brake system? Will it be okay to empty out all the brake fluid from the system and then rebleeding everything afterwards?

 

just had mine done 2 days ago... started with one leaky line and ended up blowing a second during bleed... sooooo we replaced all of them... we did'nt have to drop the tank or anything there was just enough room to get through without all that... mech buddy just used a reel of brake tube and flared and bent himself... total cost was $350 installed.

 

I did it this way , because the rest of the line was ok .. it was just packed up with rocks and mud , by the fuel tank and caused that area to rot ..



I used a cut off wheel , to cut the line , and then a reamer to clean the inside lip .. it was a little difficult getting the flare tool in close enough , you just have to take your time ...