Handbrake troubles
#1
Handbrake troubles
Hey folks. I just got this '93 T100 and have been trying to figure out why the handbrake doesn't work all that well.
The pull at the handle is extremely difficult but I'm able to get in about 5 clicks or so without throwing my back out. But even then, it doesn't hold the truck.
I just changed out the shoes and wheel cylinders and put it all back together, adjusted the brakes at the star adjuster and adjusted the return screw at the lever (bellcrank stop) so it has a small gap as per instructions.
When I am able to pull the brake, I can see by looking around back that the lever IS moving. Left side a little more than the right.
Pedal brakes seem fine...its just the damn handbrake that I need to work. I live in a hilly area.
Any ideas?
The pull at the handle is extremely difficult but I'm able to get in about 5 clicks or so without throwing my back out. But even then, it doesn't hold the truck.
I just changed out the shoes and wheel cylinders and put it all back together, adjusted the brakes at the star adjuster and adjusted the return screw at the lever (bellcrank stop) so it has a small gap as per instructions.
When I am able to pull the brake, I can see by looking around back that the lever IS moving. Left side a little more than the right.
Pedal brakes seem fine...its just the damn handbrake that I need to work. I live in a hilly area.
Any ideas?
#2
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
When you did the Brake shoes you did make sure the bell cranks moved freely in the brackets?? With the rear cable disconnected .
these have a habit of seizing up if the E-brake is not used.
If it is not that it is possible either the front or rear cable is seized
these have a habit of seizing up if the E-brake is not used.
If it is not that it is possible either the front or rear cable is seized
#3
Yeah, I moved them back and forth a bit. One thing I noticed was the springs on the bell crank seemed awe full tight when I moved them and they were a challenge to get back on as well. I was wondering if they are the wrong size/tension of springs but have been unable to find any example images on the web. My bell cranks have one spring per wheel. It seems some models have two.
#6
More than likely it's the forward cable is binding. The cable comes off the brake pull handle, wraps down and around towards the rear and connects to a bell-crank (equalizer) to distribute the pull to the rear drums. If that cable is stuck, you may get some clicks as you take up the slack but then nothing else moves.
*nevermind, just re-read and saw that you said the cables move. It could be the cables from the equalizer to the drums are binding from corrosion, being frayed or something adding to the resistance.
*nevermind, just re-read and saw that you said the cables move. It could be the cables from the equalizer to the drums are binding from corrosion, being frayed or something adding to the resistance.
Last edited by abecedarian; Aug 12, 2012 at 06:32 PM.
#7
Thanks. Figured out that it must have been the adjustments were off between drums. (one tight, the other loose. - so one bell crank was working while the other was never holding the shoe to the drum.) I guess my lesson is to make sure brakes are adjusted properly and evenly between sides after replacing brakes. The previous owner must've made the same mistake. I don't think the "automatic adjusters" are working right.
BTW: kicking tires does nothing..
BTW: kicking tires does nothing..
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#8
Thanks. Figured out that it must have been the adjustments were off between drums. (one tight, the other loose. - so one bell crank was working while the other was never holding the shoe to the drum.) I guess my lesson is to make sure brakes are adjusted properly and evenly between sides after replacing brakes. The previous owner must've made the same mistake. I don't think the "automatic adjusters" are working right.
BTW: kicking tires does nothing..
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