how do i change fuel pressure. i replaced the head on my 22re and it runs like donkey doo. i give it gas at idle and it chokes itself literally to death. i think that this means that is too lean. i tried to drive it but i have absolutely no power to even move my truck in gear. i checked all the lines and made sure that the bolts on the efi from the fuel line were lined up right. i saw there was a fuel pressure regulator somewhere. i dont know what it does or where it is even located. i am taking a shot in the dark with this one can anyone help.

 

I'm not sure that I am following your logic.

There are other things besides being lean that would result in poor performance.

Why did you have to replace the head?

Did you use a new, remanufactured, or used head?

Are you certain that you got the cam timing correct?

Is the ignition timing correct?

What is the fuel pressure?, delivery volume?

what condition are the ignition components (plugs, wires, cap, rotor)?

On a stock engine there should never be a reason to adjust the fuel pressure.

 

was the head machined flat?

hows your timing?

are the wires correctly mated to each cylinder or spark plug?

sounds like something simple is holding you up.

 

i replaced it because of a burnt valve.

i got my old head rebuilt.

i am certin i got cam timing correct, if i put the engine on tdc the cam timing mark is pointing straight up.

i got my ignition timing to 4 degrees it was that or 12 degrees should i change it back?

i dont know what the fp is or what the volume is, i dont havt those tools.

i put brand new plugs and wires. the cap and rotor was last replaced eight months ago.

a mechanic said it sounds lean and i might be off in the timing area but i rechecked like i said. can 8 degrees of advance make that much of a difference

 

ya they milled .006 off the bottom. all ignition components are good.

 

uh... yeah... 8 degrees of advance in timing CAN and WILL make a difference... lol...

 

but i drove it at 12 degrees and it drove with a little more power but it still struggles

 

8 degrees of timing will have a significant impact on performance, but I don't think it's enough to account for the lack of performance you describe.

The timing mark that is on the camshaft sprocket doesn't actually align straight up. it ends up being about 1/2 tooth off towards the passenger side of the engine. the dowel on the camshaft should be straight up.

It's obviously impossible to say from my perspective whether or not you have a lean condition. And like I said before there should be no reason to adjust or change the fuel pressure. If you are on that track (the lean thing) then I'd suggest checking the fuel pressure and delvery first. a problem with the fuel pump, or regulator may be the cause. But keep in mind there are other things to cause you to run lean. Injectors, coolant temp sensor, Air flow meter, air leaks, etc

 

my cam dowel is straighu up and the off colored link is towards the passenger side directly above where the timing mark is

 

How are you setting the timing? Are you grounding the E1 and T terminals per spec? If not, try it at 16* advanced without those grounded. Also, are the valves adjusted correctly?

 

i set the timing with a light and i could only get 12 degrees or 4 degrees. when i reved it it stayed within a degree of what i put it at. valves are to spec. i am not sure what e1 and t terminals are. by the way thank you to all those who are helpin me

 

Before you change the timing, you have to jump those connections in the "diagnosis" box right by your fuse box on the passenger side, under the hood. Use a paper clip or something. You gotta Haynes manual or something? You'll want to set it to about 5 degress BTDC.Then take the paper clip out and it should advance to about 12 dBTDC.

The FSM has a great troubleshooting flow chart too. I'm sure someone will post a link to it....

 

ya i have a chilton manual. and is a paper clip safe. ok but i dont understand how it will change the advance. will the comp do it for me? with the truck on or off

 

I take it idles OK? Do it with the truck running (and hot if you can). Jump the TE & E1 with the paper clip. You should here the idle drop a bit. If it's a good connection, you'll see the CEL flashing. This kinda resets the computer and puts it at square one. Do your timing thing (5 dBTDC) and then remove the paper clip. You should see the timing advance to about 10 or 12 dBTDC

 

When you ground those two terminals, the idle will drop slightly. Then you set the timing. I actually prefer a little more than 5*. I try to get it between 5* and 8*. Seems to run better at those numbers.

Also, make sure the valves are adjusted correctly in the head. If you just slapped a new or rebuilt head on and never adjusted the valves, then they are out of adjustment and you need to adjust them.

Also, just a note. Try to stay away from Bosch Platinum plugs if that is what is in there. I prefer Autolite and especially NGK.

 

crap i bought the bosch ones cause i didnt have a wire gauge to gap the NGKplugs. what should i expect when i do this. and yes it runs great freewheelin at idle, just not with a load or throttle lol

 

Tripple check all electrical connections.

 

i quadruple checked them. its been one problem after another so i checked everything atleast three times

 

NGK V-Power plugs come pre-gapped.

Also, you never acknowledged the valve adjustment check. Was it done after you installed the head?

 

it very well maybe the CTS coolant temp sens.
sounds like a similar ordeal i had w/a bmw.

spent 2 days of mapping every wire under the hood (*tested resistance on all wires) just to find out "the CTS that schucks sold me was faulty"

so, a trip to the Dealer, 27 bucks later and a new CTS and my car fired right up, and drove great..


b.t.w. the main cause it failed was i got it wet. (yup, w/water )
let alone being dry (like yours may have been while doing the head work).
i would definately get an O.E.M. one from the dealer, test it, than install it, test it again, and fire that truck up.


also,
check all your connections, (AFM, Grounds, tps (throttle position sens) etc.
perhaps one of the plugs unpluged itself.


hope that helps.