So i lifted the 4runner about 3 inches and it all kind of went well. After the front it wouldnt really move so I dropped the dif and it let the cv axles free. But when I hit bumps they slightly lock up I guess is the term and make horrible noises. So I am on my 5th CV axle and it just ripped the boot so I have had enough, I brought it to a shop and got some ideas from the guy. I bought a bigger differential drop and he said I would need to find a pitman drop and/or an idler arm drop. I cant find either, who makes them? thank you in advance

 

None of the pics tell me WHAT lift you have.

Also - get RID of the ADD fixed hub and go to a manual hub... that will keep the CVs from spinning

 

Agreed... In order to advise at all we need to know what type of lift you put on the truck.

I'm thinking bj spacers and pinned tbars right?

That's a sure fire way to kill CV's...

 

From his signature here is the lift on the truck: Torsions turned up, 1.5'' BJ Spacers, 2'' Coil spring spacers, Eibach rear coils; about 3'' of lift?

Cranked torsions make for a crappy ride (did it on my '86 4Runner 20 years ago)
Post some pictures of your CV angle, they can only operate with in a certain range of motion...

Thread jack: ovrrdrive: Sweet looking 95!

 

relax the t-bars .5" or so, see if that helps.

 

I read in his sig and followed the link even but completely missed that...

Yep, with bj spacers and a tbar crank there's no way you're ever going to keep CV's in that thing...

I'd suggest putting the tbars back to stock or maybe even a little lower and either doing a body lift (~$120) or a bracket lift ($600-1000) on the truck and that will fix the issue completely.



Thanks!

I did a buildup thread over at toyota nation before I realized the mods over there were all fags and the overall mentality of the board was all about wanting to put 44's on a stock truck, but the thread's still there. I don't post there anymore but the thread is still up.


Here's a link:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...hreadid=184391

[/threadjack]

 

Does anyone know someone that makes a idler arm and pitman arm drop? I am going to relax the t-bars a little more and manual hubs will come some day. I just wish I would have seen this headache and spent a couple hundred more on a SAS. IFS sucks.... And when people say the trucks ride like crap with cranked t-bars, have you ever done it? My truck rides smooth as silk with a little over 1'' of crank. I might have good shocks but it rides better then my 03 neon

 

Sorry and I was wondering if anyone makes a better dif drop then just spacers. I see on 4'' lift kits they have actual brackets it looks like rather then just a large spacer.

 

A 1" differential drop, T-bars about 3/4 - 1" over stock and balljoint spacers you wont get any problems.

Another fix is replacing the upper bump stops with larger ones so the top susp arm isnt able to drop far enough to make the axles bind. I did this on my rig before I rebuilt it on a new frame. pass side normal operating angle was almost at its breaking point.

I get slight binding now without a dif drop (ordering tomorrow) ...

And... cv binding WILL CAUSE IMMENENT DEATH TO THE AXLE, LOL... Its such a lovely sound when they blow up =p

 

I didn't realize you dont have manual hubs!!!
thats going to MAJORLY speed up the life of your cv's

 

I had about 3/4" of tbar crank and drove it like that for about 12 years. I liked the ride better than it came stock because off the floor it was too mushy. However, the truck didn't flex at all and after that period of time I was ready to soften the ride back up. I put on a set of bj spacers and loosened them back up. I can't believe I put up with them like that for as long as I did now...


And btw, compared to the lift you have now an SAS would have cost you about $1500 more by the time you bought and rebuilt an axle...


And your truck rides better than your neon because it actually has a suspension.

 

Don't know of anyone that makes a dropped idler and/or pitman arm.
Manual hubs someday ??? Heck, you've probably already spent enough on front axles to have paid for a set of hubs (ca $150.00).

Doesn't make sense to lift the vehicle then drop the diff back down thus negatiing most of the original lift height, does it ?

Sounds like the lift is more for looks than anything else, so you have a couple of options.
- Add manual hubs and never lock 'em up.
- Drop back down in suspension lift and add a 2" or 3" bl instead (note, though I wouldn't install a 3" bl on anything myself).



Fred

 

I was thinking a BL, so I might be dropping the T-bars and pulling the coil spacers sometime. I am talking to my local 4x4 guys and they are seeing what they can do for me. I never knew it was so hard to lift my 4runner haha. It is kind of for looks, I like the look of small turcks with big lifts and big muddy tires but I still use the truck on the trail but it sees 90% pavement.