Just a quick question. My 22RE reads 170 psi in a compression test, but I'm getting blue smoke out the exhaust when taking off after a long idle and on startup. Is it normal to see evidence of valve guide seal wear and good compression together?

I don't think anything is really wrong, I just thought these two things should never happen at the same time.

 

have you replaced/checked your pcv valve lately?

Add yes, valves can seal properly while the valve seals are worn since the valve seals do not affect the way a valve seats (thus good compression), unless the seals and guides are real bad in which the valve itself can "wiggle" a little causing them not to seat properly (thus bad compression)

But what you describe can be valve seals too so I can tell you have done your research.

 

Wouldn't a leak down test be better for determining the problem?

 

not if the valves are seating properly. and with 170psi in the compression test, they definitely are.

 

I've been meaning to check it. Now I've got a good excuse.

I see what you're saying. When the valves are closed, they would give good compression, assuming they seat well. But when they're open, oil and exhaust gas could escape past the guide seals.

Time to start reading up on the black art of doing a valve guide seal replacement without removing the head.

 

Must be a 2 stroke

 

Usually, the symptoms you describe are caused by bad valve seals, yes. If you aren't already, try MaxLife 10W-40 - in a few weeks to a month you might see enough improvement to buy some time before you have to replace the seals.

 

Well it has had an engine transplant...

She's due for an oil change in 1 month, so I'll give that a try. I was also considering Engine Restorer as some others had had some luck with it. But I'm not sure dumping sludge in the engine to temporarily plug the leak is such a good idea. The amount of smoke is so minor right now that I'll probably just drive it until it becomes a lot more obvious.

 

My veezy was leaking a fair amount past the front and rear main seals, so last spring I gave the MaxLife a try and in 2-3 weeks I noticed the leaking almost completely stopped. I'm not sure how well it would work on valve seals, but it's definitely worth a try. Running the 10W-40 is good since heavier oil usually leaks less than lighter weight. In extreme situations, 20W-50 might be needed, but it's way too thick for winter.

 

Indeed it is. I'll give the MaxLife 10w-40 a try pretty soon since the window sticker says a change is due mid February. Amazon has it for $5.60 a quart (in the 12 pack) so I imagine I can find it somewhere for even less.

 

Walmart has MaxLife for $13.50 for 5 quarts so I'm going to go ahead and do the change. I'm also gonna put on a Purolator PureONE PL20195 following this thread:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51604096

Nevertheless I'm thinking I'm going to need at least a head job soon. A couple of days ago my yota didn't start up effortlessly like normal. No warning signs, just wouldn't kick over. I pumped the gas a couple of times and finally got it going. For the rest of the day, maybe 20 miles of driving, it was pumping blue smoke. I was sure either the head had blown or one of the valve guide seals had given up the ghost.

Since then I've driven 200 miles and the smoke hasn't returned. No coolant in the oil, no oil in the coolant. It's like it never happened. I'm glad her Wolverine healing factor kicked in and fixed the problem.