Aloha Everyone,

I have a 93 4x4 Yota with the 22RE engine. When accelerating from stop it shifts great from neutral to 1st but always when revving above 3000 rpm it grinds going from 1st gear to 2nd gear. It has 163,000 miles on the original clutch so is it time to replace the clutch kit? It doesn't grind on all other gears, just from 1st to 2nd. Thanks

 

Tired tranny. Worn syncros. Learn how to double-clutch it.

A gear oil change can't hurt. GL-4 spec. NOT GL-4/GL-5 spec.

 

GL5 might tarnish the syncos, but if it's not "too slippery" it's just fine. Toyota and Marlin recommend it. Synthetic GL5.
I do think the GL5 thing is something of an urban myth. I used it for years. Then I put in GL4 because "everyone" recommended it.
Running 75W-90 Synth GL5 in Tcase and W56, hypoid synth in the diffs.

 

163K miles is more than enough for any clutch set; time for a new set. My '78 was doing the same thing from 1st to 2nd gear, regardless of engine RPM, & would also grind a bit going into Reverse if the truck was sitting still. New clutch set cured all this & my trans is fine.

 

I've never known a worn clutch to cause hard shifting.. Might anyone explain that mechanism.??

. A dragging clutch, or pilot bearing , maybe.

 

^^ True, it doesn't make a lot of sense. Worn clutch means there is more space when the clutch is pushed.

The rear has no syncro. That means if you push the clutch and don't wait for the gears in the tranny to stop spinning before you shift into reverse - it will always grind, by design.

 

millball - Yes it could be a dragging clutch, where it is getting hung up on the shaft & not fully retracting. It could also (more often) be the throwout bearing going bad. I can only speak to my own case here but the throwout bearing was occasionally making noise, especially with the clutch released (pedal up), & would quiet down when the pedal was pressed. I also think it might have had something to do with the clutch pressure plate being very worn. From the research I have done, it appears that Toyota made a design change on the slave cylinder & it's pushrod after 1980. After '80 the pushrod no longer had the facility to be adjusted the way earlier ones did. From '79 & back, the pushrod had a cone nut on it & a locknut, which was used to take up the slack of a worn clutch. Apparently from '80 onwards Toyota introduced a slave cylinder with a longer bore (more stroke) so as the clutch wore, the extra length of stroke would automatically adjust as the clutch wore down. Here's some pics to illustrate:


1979 & earlier Slave Cylinder with Adjustable Pushrod


1980 & Later, Longer Bore & Non-Adjustable Pushrod

Just as a point of interest, you CAN install the later '80 & up "self-adjusting" type of slave cylinder on a '79 & earlier. The mounting hole spacing is exactly the same & you can get rid of the adjustable pushrod entirely & not have to fiddle with it. Just make sure it's the same transmission type/model & it will bolt right up & work fine.

ev13wt - I understand what you are saying. However, with my worn out throwout bearing, it would grind a bit every time I put it in Reverse if the truck was sitting still. That means the the rear wasn't turning at all. If the truck was rolling even slightly (forward or backwards, didn't seem to matter), it would drop into Reverse with any hint of grind. Now with the new clutch set installed, it drops into Reverse sitting still with no grind, every time.

 

Gee, test it!

Sit on a level surface. Hold the clutch in, and slowly rev it up. Does the truck move?

If you have a crack in the clutch bracket, the clutch won't completely disengage, which will cause gear grinding. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...fatigue-32667/

 

Have to disagree with the GL5 "myth" thing. The smoothness of my trans went away and it got notchy
after I did a fluid change to GL5 stuff. Was in there for about 3000 miles and dumped it for mt90 and the smooth shifts came back.
Also changing out the shifter bushings made a big improvement in the clunky feel and small grinds I would have too

 

That means the input shaft was turning as you tried to put in reverse. In your case the clutch wasn't fully disengaging.
I'd love to see that molested besring!

Who puts trucks into reverse when moving?
Air or busted seals in master / slave could cause this as well.

 

The truck only had to be moving/rolling a bit, either forward or backward, to go into reverse without any grind, Sitting still, it would grind reverse every time. It was the only way to get into reverse & not grind. Like I said, new clutch set cured all of this.