chimmike

So every morning I crank up the beast, and drive it to work. It's kinda sluggish before getting into operating temp. Right when it gets to normal operating temp, I try to accelerate from a stop, and it becomes downright piggish. Feels like it starts in 2nd gear and is only running on 4 cylinders. Won't downshift, nothing. I almost have to ride it out to 45-50mph, then next time I come to a complete stop, it doesn't act AS sluggish...but still hesitant on initial acceleration.

After the entire vehicle is good and warmed up, everything is basically okay......

any ideas what's going on? I'm tripping a EGR temp code and rich condition code also.

chimmike

so....

MMA_Alex

you're talking about a 3.0 right? My 22re always feels like its running on 4 cyls lol.

coolant temp sensor?

02?

Not sure what the egr temp code means, but if its running rich it could be the computer not realizing the engine is up to operating temp, or bad readings from the 02 sensor.

Its probably a sensor of some sort, but sorry I dont know the 3vze too well.

chimmike

yep 3.slow, sorry for not specifying.

^VooDoo^

the EGR code could just be a seprate issue, If the EGR mainvalve got stuck or held open you would be getting leanout problem and stalls at idle but other then that EGR is invisable.
Sounds like it could be the O2 sensor is not coming up to temp before it goes into closed loop or Coolant temp sensor, Unplug it and check for dirty terminals, (Its behind the throttlebody near the firewall, The right side one).
Just for peace of mind check the O2 harness and make sure the its damaged and that the plug is clean, Also for grounding perposes loosen the nuts and retighten them.

If that doesnt fix it try this, Unplug the cold start injector and in the morning when its cold and you head to work (does it drive any different) you can plug it in easly if its really hard to start or runs worst, That eliminates the coldstart injector and coldstart switch as a cause.

One more thing, Pull the EFI relay and push it back in to break any oxidation on its terminals.

More info, Like Alex said, Do you think its running rich or lean?

chimmike

definitely, DEFINITELY running rich.

I'll check for oxidation and I'm pretty sure the O2 sensor is fouled, at the very minimum, and needs to be replaced.....

Where is the cold start injector? So this damn truck has SEVEN injectors? geez. Toyota made things so damn complicated in the early 90s.

my 03 350z was far simpler than this crap lol.

chimmike

woot et bump

MMA_Alex

Some FSM stuff to look over, some of which you should check to make sure it's operating properly as we discussed above.

FSM cold start injector info

Regular Injectors info

Cold Start injector time switch

ECT sensor info

keithguts

I agree with this

Tdubbs05

when the tranny's being sluggish in the morning, it's cause the atf has to get up to operating temp before it shifts properly. not sure bout the rest though but i'd say starting with some sensors would be the best start to troubleshooting.

LS1Steve

i had similar problem. changed the 02 and it helped a LOT. definitely worthwhile if its the original one.
www.sparkplugs.com for best price, I got the ngk (actually its ntk) and am very happy. around $50 shipped

chimmike

that's a good price, as freakin Autozone wanted $90 for the o2!

I know the o2 in my ride is bad. However, installing the FIPK this weekend helped a little bit.

Tdubbs05

i forget how much i got my o2 sensor for but talk with Evan Nickols
phone # 818-734-5600
email evann@northridgetoyota.com

he had a thread about 25% off and free shipping for yotatech users. oh one thing about o2 sensors is don't by a boshe for 2nd gen 4runners/trucks. ppl have had bad experiences with them because they're too short and give bad readings. go with the stock ngk or denso.

chimmike

good to know.....because in everything else I've had bosch o2 sensors are the best

NGK I shall be buying!

Hoopster

Definitely sounds like the o2 sensor. I just went through the same ordeal and the o2 sensor fixed it.

chimmike

I did remove the plug for the cold start injector. It seemed to need to crank for an extra second or so this morning but i ran much, much better without acting so piggish once normal operating temp hit. I think there's a temp sensor out somewhere that tripped the cold start injector to flow when normal op temp was reached, causing the truck to run horribly piggish.