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full top end & head gasket repair gone wrong?

Old 08-28-2005, 08:33 AM
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Unhappy full top end & head gasket repair gone wrong?

Well I TRIED to redo my head gaskets, got the heads resurfaced, got the gasket kit from engnbldr, replaced a bunch of sensors, new water pump timing belt, thermostat.
Cranked it up, CHECK ENGINE light. Ok, checked codes:52 & 22. Found out that the connectors behind the engine, for the water temp, etc. weren't pushed down in their connectors. Recranked, no light, good. Used radiator flush & engine flush, drained and reiflled oil, new filter. OK, now comes the part where the tears roll from my eyes:
I checked the oil dipstick after running it for a while, nothing. Ran engine and checked while runnin, milky and white. Oh s#!^. Maybe just residue I pray. Not so simple. Filled radiator with engine plug out and oiled drained. Freakin water starts drippin from my engine pan. Is my block cracked or what the .... could I have done? If someone wants this runner make me an offer. I need to get something that runs NOW cause my wife is due and it's hard for her to ride in this 2 door probe that she has.
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Old 08-28-2005, 02:48 PM
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bump for some help quick. Did I miss somthin cause the water is also drippin from the oil pan?
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Old 08-28-2005, 06:41 PM
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If the head was torqued down worng...the the mating surface on the block was not clean and square/true...I got one of these after the owner tried the HG job himself....he forgot to put the HG gasket on the 1-3-5 side and gave up......IF you know you did the work correctly then I would think the answer is yes the block might be cracked....is the water coming from the the oil drain plug? have to ask that...your sure it is not just a water hose that broke or did not get connected and leaking down the sides......
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Old 08-28-2005, 08:16 PM
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yeah I'm sure it's commin from the plug cause I took the plug out to see what happened to all my oil. Then I decided to see what happens when I let the water hose run through the radiator. Maybe the head bolts aren't tourqed right. Will I have to take more than the intake chamber & valve covers off to try & retorqe or should I completely dissasemble again?
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Old 08-29-2005, 07:42 AM
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The best course of action here would be to completely dissasemble it, flush everything back out and replace with fresh and then put it all back together, taking your time to make sure that you've completed each step properly.

Several have done this very same bit of repair, i.e., head gasket swap, so there's no reason why you cannot accomplish it yourself. Take your time and be sure that you're doing it right each step of the way and we'll keep our fingers crossed that you have'nt cracked the block, which is not all that easy of a thing to do..., good luck.
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Old 08-29-2005, 05:33 PM
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I checked to make sure water actually came out of the oil drain hole on the pan and it did when I put water in the radiator. Weird? I took it apart, down to the heads. Then I poured water in the head where the coolant normally goes thru but didn't notice any coming out of the oil drain. Also there was a pool of oil/coolant in the middle of the block where the knock sensor is, the same as when I first pulled it. Is this normal for a blown head gasket? Am I missing something or just going crazy. I appreciate any input.
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Old 08-30-2005, 07:17 AM
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Is the knock sensor not properly sealed/shot?
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Old 08-30-2005, 12:40 PM
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would that possibly cause this prob?
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Old 08-30-2005, 04:27 PM
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Hmmm, could beeee.

A leaking knock sensor could account for the fluid that you've been seeing, though it would probally have to be a pretty bad leak, which is why I would also look into proper head bolt torqueing..., you did get some new ARP head bolts to use, did'nt you?
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Old 08-30-2005, 05:54 PM
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What's ARP? Yeah I ordered new bolts with the gasket set. That knock sensor is bigger than all my sockets, guess i'll have to get a new socket tommorrow.I pulled the head bolts, but I guess I may need to pull the heads & clean the gaskets again cause water & antifreeze started pouring out the heads.
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Old 08-30-2005, 08:33 PM
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aro makes head studs but dont stock any for our truck...use the factory tty bolts but you can only use em once maybe twice if you haven't run the motor.
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Old 08-30-2005, 10:21 PM
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"ARP" (Automotive Racing Products) is an aftermarket supplier of automotive parts and/or accessories such as "head bolts" and I thought that they did have bolts for the 'Yota's?

Anyway, you should get new head bolts irregardless, from wherever you can, dissasemble them again and make sure that all mating surfaces are true and clean..., this goes for the block itself as well (maybe you can see if it can be "planed" and/or "decked" with the engine in place???. You never know...!).

Take your time, be patient and don't try to cut any corners, this is your mode of transportation in this commuter world we live in afterall.
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Old 08-31-2005, 08:31 AM
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what socket size is used for the knock sensor?
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Old 09-02-2005, 04:53 PM
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This is a stupid question, but does oil go through the knock sensor. Or does it just come up to it.
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Old 09-03-2005, 12:22 AM
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nothing goes through the knock senser it just bolts under the intake if you unbolt it nothing should come out. about the head gaskets could you possibly mixed L/R sides?
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Old 09-03-2005, 06:37 AM
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I just put some new felpros on cause I ruined the others when I pulled the heads again. Left = drivers side Right= passenger side right?
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Old 09-03-2005, 11:16 AM
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Anybody out there? Will it hurt if I torque the head bolts an additional 90 deg or will i break somethin.
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Old 09-03-2005, 05:08 PM
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another 90* can put a HUGE amount of torque on them..i wouldn't chance it. just go by factory spec...
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Old 09-04-2005, 07:12 PM
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Still having trouble. When I pulled the intake there was still oil in the middle of the engine where the knock sensor is. Pulled out the knock sensor & checked it, it tested good. I don't think this has anything to do with it. What are the possible causes of this. It's enough oil to come the top of the knock sensor. Anyway I just went ahead & reassemled the engine and after 10 mins of idlein (after running motor flush and refilling oil) i'm not gettin oil on my dipstick. Added another quart and 1/2, idle 10 mins. An hour later nothing on the dipstick. I don't know what to do. The temp indicator stays perfect when idleing. Maybe it's time to save for a 3.4 swap. Also when i drained the radiator after filling it with water, the water comes out looking a little milky but not thick and is a little warm. Then, as it drains for about another 30 secs clear hot steamy water comes out. WTF, someone just give me a 3.4 please.
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