Im going to be cleaning my tank and soaking it in vinegar this weekend, my question is would you soak the fuel injectors and rail also. The guy i bought it from said it did run good but last time he tried to crank it, it wouldnt crank and run it would just turn over and over. Now mind you the fuel pump hanger high pressure line was rusted out. I have a new hanger waiting at the stealership to pick up. The pump he said he had replaced also but it had some build up on the outside of it also so i may soak it.
Ive looked at Terrys threads and the vinegar will clean it up good if i can get the sender out without any more screws breaking!!! 5 little screws and 1 already broke but i soaked it good with kroil sunday and ive been out of state this week.

 

The fuel injectors you can flush. I have a set up at my work shop that I can post on how to do it in a couple of days as I will be off until then. The fuel rail will need cleaned as well. On that I have been able to get them cleaned with some spray can fuel injector cleaner. You can pull the Fuel Pressure Regulator off to get better access to it and flush it good. Sometimes with an air hose can break the gunk up into flakes.

I have had the bolts/screws to brake as well. Once you get the others out, usually there is a stub left that you might be able to get a pair of vise grips on and then remove the rest of the bolt. On two different occasions, I could not get the stud out and just re drilled a new hole beside it. Do not do any drilling or anything that can make a spark until you have flushed it with some water and got the gas out. Really pay attention to fumes. If you see any that is when a tank is the most dangerous. I do my tanks in the winter just for that reason.

Check your return line. I pull it off of the Fuel Pressure Regulator and use an air hose. I do a test with low air pressure so as not to compress any clogs. Most trucks I have worked on have clogged lines. I fill them with PB BLaster or similar and let it soak its way thru. After a few days of steadily adding rust dissolver, I will blow the lines out with an air hose. I use a gear oil bottle lid as a funnel to get the rust dissolver into the lines.


Checking the other line.


Some will knock the ebay fuel pumps. They are an exact replacement for about $35 including shipping. I have used ten of these on ten different trucks and not one has failed. I keep my tanks at 1/8 of a tank at the very least as fuel is a coolant to any fuel pump. Part store will want $150 and Toyota $300. I think you can get a Denso for about $150.

I get my injector seal kit from ebay. Same as parts store and you get screens for your injectors.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270921195123...mtr&rmvSB=true

Also while doing the fuel system, check your charcoal canister. The vent line can get clogged with mud and I just use a drill bit and then blow the line out to clear it. I have replaced two canisters in the past as they will fail a test according to a Haynes Manual and you can tell quick when it fails. I forget how to test it but it is easy.

 

Thanks Terry you have tons of info bud!

 

No problem. To clean and test an injector, I use a syringe, rubber hose, a 9 volt battery and some wiring. You can run just straight wire but another set of hands is useful. Even with my contraption, I still have to use a vise to hold the injector and one to hold the syringe and with 1 or 2 second touches of the battery to open the injector. You can connect the rubber hose at each end of the injector to flush both ways. Normally I use carb or injector cleaner but have used these in the past for a flushing agent.