Hi all,
I'm back at it again trying to replace the fuel filter sock on my 1989 3.slo 4runner. What should be a half hour job is a nightmare because I can't for the life of me get the flare nut at the top of the tank free. Even with copious amounts of PB blaster and flare nut wenches it seems every time I start to apply enough force I am either bending the tube, or starting to round off the nut. Anyone have any tricks about how to hold the thing steady?

I am worried I am going to kink/have already kinked the little tube. Does anyone know the part number/ a source for the fuel pump bracket? Every one I see for sale has only 2 hoses coming out, and mine has 3. I'm worried I wont be able to find another if i destroy this one.

 

I'm considering drilling it out and just using something like this: https://www.efisystempro.com/fuel-sy...eturn-port-kit I see similar things on race car fuel cells, and figure an old 4runner can't be much worse. I don't know what i would do with the flex hose as the other end looks just as rusty.

I haven't rounded it yet, but man its on there.

 

Just use some heat! (Seriously just kidding).

They make flare nut vice grips which can be a life saver in these types of situations. I would try something like that before drilling on a gas tank.

 

Use a flarenut wrench, then add a vise grip to tighten the open end, turn it like a t-handle bar.

 

Thanks for the responses ya'll.

I'll give this a go. I've been resoaking it in PB blaster for the last few days, I'll take another stab... I agree if i can salvage this that would be best.

Just looked up the flare nut vice grips... at $150 for the set pricey, but man I've struggled with enough of these friggen lines I might pull the trigger.

As for the part number I've noticed that non of the parts listed as the proper interchange for an 89 3.0 don't look right it is either 2 hoses, or 3 really long hoses... What i have looks more like the 4 cyl part number with 3 short hoses out of the top Dose anyone know if this happens?

 

What itscrazytom is suggesting (I think) is to use your regular (metric, I hope) flare nut wrench, and help back it up (keep it from spreading) with the vise grips on the open side of the wrench. Note that the OTC 6720 set-of-three locking wrenches are nominally imperial, not metric. A 9/16" flare nut wrench is very close to the required 14mm, but close doesn't always cut it. At least the locking wrenches supposedly cover a range.

 

This is exactly what I mean. Use the flare nut wrench and add the vise grip so it doesn’t spread out under stress. Don’t spend the money if you don’t have to.

 

Got it with the method described, a few gallons of pb blaster, and several curse words.

Thanks guys.

 

Dang thats good stuff! I might have to use that trick some day