crowsfeet

1995 4runner fuel system problem.....(You are more than welcome to skip this long introduction and go straight to the PROBLEM paragraph if wanted. I just didn't want to jump in as a new member and ask questions without saying something)....SO...Hello all! I am new to this forum. My name is Debra. I am 43 and a died hard toyota gal! I have a 95 4runner. (My 5th toyota since 84. and it's all I've ever owned.) I love, love, love it! And hope to keep it. But need help from time to time, (and can give some advised when asked as I have been through some trial and error with it and especially the 96 tacoma someone totaled for me last spring. I had the tacoma for 8 years and it truely broke my heart when totaled. But after owning a 4runner for a year, I am very happy with it as well.

Personally, I, like a lot of people, can't afford a mechanic everytime something goes wrong, and have taken pride in knowing the ins and outs of my car/truck or going as far as I can without having to take it in. My boyfriend also drives a toyota and helps me so much with all my troubles. But there are times when we need reinforcement about what we are doing before we get started.....

PROBLEM: Yesterday we were on our way to dinner and a show....when we slowed down at a red light to vear left and the truck stalled. This had not happened or even threatened to happen before so we were surprised. I tried to start it and it would turn over but not start. We thought that since I was so used to running on "E" that maybe some sludge had gotten into the filter/fuel pump and we needed gas as it was almost on "E" then. (My b/f is constantly fusing that I don't need to go to "E" everytime before filling up.)
Anyway, a few people stopped to help but we weren't sure what they could help with so we thanked them and sent them on there way. About 5 minutes after it stalled, it started again. YEAH!!! But then died again after driving 50 yards or so. This happened three or four times. My b/f pushed from the back while I pushed and managed to steer it into a gas station. We filled it up, and it started and ran for about 20 secs and died again.

What do you think it could be? Many are saying the fuel filter or the fuel pump. According to the Chilton manual I have the fuel pump and filter are located in the fuel tank..??? And it is accessable by taking the seats out? Wow.....so I tell Clayton..."We can do this"!!! I always tell him that! But what do you folks think, is this a job for a machanic? My addriniline reaches high levels thinking about the challenge of digging in there and doing this! But maybe I am in over my head.

Also the book says releive the fuel pressure withing the system before anywork is done. But it doesn't say how?

Also how do we tell if the engine is 1FZ-FE or 5FZ-FE

I guess we need to syphin out the gas too huh? but how much?

Please help! and if anyone has done this before and had extra tips please let us know that as well.

I also want to say, as tomboy as I seem, I also love my pink frilly stuff!!! Just have to do the things in life that are easier on the pocket book!!!

Thanks a bunch and God bless!

Debra Barnes

Kutter

Hi welcome.

If you have the 1995 like you wrote and it is a V6 then you have a 3VZE engine.

There is a plate to access the top of the fuel tank like you said. It is too small and in the wrong location to allow you to remove the fuel pump.

There is a bolt/plug in the bottom of the fuel tank to allow you to drain fuel. It is not required to drain it but I do recommend it. You will need to drop the fuel tank to pull the fuel pump out. You do not have to remove the tank entirely just drop it 8-10" or so.

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...5&o=14&fpart=1

See link above to 1993 manual. It will be close enough to your 1995 to be useful.

If you are pretty certain about fuel starvation I would start with the fuel filter. It is not too tough to do on your own. Most likely it is the original filter that came from the factory. ugh

To relieve fuel system pressure you can crack open one of the connectors on the fuel rails where ever it is convinient for access, mess, etc.

Before pulling the fuel tank and after changing the fuel filter I would use the proceedure in the maintenance manual that tells you how to run the fuel pump without starting the engine. You will need to jumper some pins at teh diagnostic plug then turn the key on. Using this procedure you can check fuel flow and pressure to the fuel rails without the engine running. If the pump is putting out good flow and pressure don't bother with dropping the fuel tank. Check further down stream in the fuel system like the injectors or the pressure regulator loacated on the front of the engine on the drivers side fuel rail.

If you are not getting fuel pressure or flow I would do a quick look at the fuel pump connector on top of the fuel tank. It should be accessable from the access hole in the floor. It may need cleaned internally. I would also do a voltage check there to be sure your problem is not eletrical. Point is not to pull the fuel tank if it is not absolutely required. I have dropped the fuel tank twice. It can be done in 1-2 hours for removal and reinstall but it is a fight and you will want to remove the rear drive shaft from the rear differential to let the tank drop down. You will have to do some prying on the way out then again on the way back in. No special tools required. You will have to remove the access panel in the right rear wheel well and then loosen the fuel tank rubber filler neck to let the tank go down.

Be careful with the small screws on top of the fuel tank that hold the fuel pump in. They are always rusted. Put someting on them like mouse milk or wd40 whatever and let them sit. They are small and can twist in half and be stuck in the ring on the tank. Then your have to remove the tank and drill/extract them. This is a good time to find and install some new stainless steel screws in place of the old rusted ones.

You can use the CEL check engine light and jumper the diagnostic plug to get any trouble codes. This can guide you in identifying the problem if there is a code.

There is an inline fuel filter located on the passenger side frame rail on the inbourd side. It is almost right above one of the frame crossmembers. There is also a fuel filter inlet screen on the bottom of the fuel pump. The stock fuel pump inlet screen filter can clog if there is debris in the tank. The inlet screen is a good size but the way the pump's pickup tube is designed it can be blocked with even a spot the size of a dime in the inlet screen is clogged. Poor design.

Good luck.

crowsfeet

Thanks so much

Kutter

Releive fuel system pressure. After thinking again I remembered that I used the cold start injesctor located on the passenger side of the air intake plenum to releive fuel system pressure. It is also an easy place to check for fuel pressure when the fuel pump is runnng. You can remove the Cold start injector from the air intake manifold then reattach the fuel line to it. Then stick the injector in a container of some type and jumper the diagnostic connector to run the fuel pump. This will run the fuel pump without starting the engine. Then you can run 12 volts across the pins of the cold start injector to cause it to open and spray fuel (it does not matter which positive or negative you connect to the injector) it will open either way. This will let you see how good pressure is. Normally fuel spray should be strong and of an even pattern and fine mist like appearance. Be careful not to cause a spark or the fuel spay or vapors may start a fire. Last thing you need is to light a blow torch of spraying fuel in your engine bay or face.

See the manual for cold start injector test procedure to find out what pins to jumper in the diagnostic plug located on the passenger side of the engine bay attached to the main fuse box to get the fuel pump to run without starting the engine.