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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 03:48 PM
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xtultegra's Avatar
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Fuel (prime)

Spec: 1990 22re 4wd Truck.
Every time I disconnect the fuel line where it meets the Plenum, I play hell getting the thing to start again. I normally run the battery down cranking it, charge it up again and then run it half way down before it will start. After that, no problems. Does anybody have any tricks or know a better way to get the fuel system primed?
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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 03:53 PM
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Insert fuel pump test jumper and turn on the ignition (key in RUN position):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump
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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 07:12 PM
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my question is, why are you having to remove the fuel line so much for this to be a problem?
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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 07:15 PM
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4crawlers advise would 100% work. You can also try key on key off key on key off a few times might for you as well.
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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 07:46 PM
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Would I hear the fuel pump running? I don't. I know its working though because I have pressure at the plenum when I loosen the banjo bolt after cranking the engine.

I had a leak at one of the injectors so I replaced all the seals.
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 04:07 PM
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Man! still can't get it to start!
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by xtultegra
Would I hear the fuel pump running? I don't. I know its working though because I have pressure at the plenum when I loosen the banjo bolt after cranking the engine.

I had a leak at one of the injectors so I replaced all the seals.
You can usually hear the pump (w/ jumper in and key on) if you stick your head in the passenger rear wheel well. Or you should be able to hear the hissing of the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) under the hood, will sound like a small air leak. Also pitch of that sound will change is you kink the return line from the FPR or apply vacuum to the top of the FPR.
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 06:22 PM
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HELP! Can't get it to even sputter. I have spark, I have fuel pressure. I am jumping the fuel pump so it runs when the key is on. It started just fine before I took off the plenum and replaced the injector seals.

Last edited by xtultegra; Oct 25, 2010 at 06:24 PM.
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 06:44 PM
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you sure you got the connectors on the right injectors and they aren't mixed up somehow?
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 06:59 PM
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That's a good call, but I am sure the connectors are on the right injectors. The connectors branch out in a fairly symmetrical and obvious manner from closest to farthest. The last time I took off the intake manifold it started right up, but the time before that it took a lot of cranking! What should I look for next?

Last edited by xtultegra; Oct 25, 2010 at 07:56 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 08:09 AM
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Check to make sure your ground is connected at the intake plenum and it isn't corroded or anything. I had trouble getting mine to start and it turns out I just had to prime it a while (after I found out I didn't have enough gas in the tank). Maybe spray a little starting fluid down the intake manifold to see if it will crank over to make sure its actually a fuel issue and not something else. You can also pull a spark plug and smell for gas/look for wetness to ensure you are getting fuel in the cylinders.
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 10:10 PM
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started pulling plugs and found #3 dry. Pulled the injector and I had pinched the o-ring. It rolled out of its slot. So big pressure loss. Will put it back together tomorrow and try again.
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 07:52 AM
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Yeah I tore one of my orings up pretty bad trying to get those injectors mounted. The second go around I put a light coating of petroleum jelly on it to help it stay in place and make it a little easier to put in. Worked out great and no more leaky injector!
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Smeddy2
Yeah I tore one of my orings up pretty bad trying to get those injectors mounted. The second go around I put a light coating of petroleum jelly on it to help it stay in place and make it a little easier to put in. Worked out great and no more leaky injector!



An even better solution is to go to your local pool store and buy some silicone based lube for o-rings. It won't attack the rubber like vaseline or other petroleum based lubes!
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 02:54 PM
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Got it running, but have an engine knock that I fear is a rod bearing on its way out. The local mechanic said it was just a lifter, but adjusting them doesn't change the sound a bit. With a stethoscope the sound is most noticeable at the exhaust manifold.
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