Of course I changed mine during the timing belt/everything else change, and the only thing that leaked after was the fuel filter. Called a friend and he asked how much did it leak? I was confused as I could not tighten it anymore. He advised that if it is a drop or 2, the system pressure will stop it - he was 100% correct. The 1-2 drops that I had, stopped after a short test drive. Just have that extinguisher handy just in case.

 

Yes, Toyota changed the classification of the 3.0 fuel filter to a "Lifetime" part a few years back. I still change mine like every 50-60K, though.

 

Well I just replaced my fuel filter on my 22re and when I went to go start it up it was spraying gas to the point where it was coming out of the fender, that wass some scary sh**! Do I have to be real accurate when I go to torque the bolts down? It says 22 flbs?

 

^ wow. are you sure you didn't cross-thread the fitting(s)?

Just tighten them down good but don't overtighten..... snuggish-tight will be fine. If it says 22flbs, use your best judgement. I use touchy-feely on almost everything and never have problems.

 

This thread has inspired me to go look at my fuel filter this weekend. I'm running 189K mi.
Is loosening the fuel cap really all that's needed to release the pressure in the fuel lines?

 

Yes, that will take the most of the pressure out. You will still get some fuel and it will spray when you will losen the nut, but nothing too bad. The smell is horrible though, have a pan and an old rag ready. When it starts spraying put the rag on it and plase the pan underneath.

 

Or just be smoking when you do it and save the cleanup time.

 

C'mon now, it can't be *that* bad a smell... haven't you filled up your lawnmower lately?
Anyhow, I'll expect a really bad stink. That way, maybe it will turn out to be not as bad.

 

Dunno - maybe it is just me, I have a sensitive nose The smell of petrol underneath the truck where you can't get out until you're finished IS quite bad

 

yes. I did cut open my filter after it sat outside for a week. (bone dry)
The paper was stained various shades of brown (rust?) and there was a small number of visable rust flakes on 1 end. It was fine. I don't expect to ever change it again. My truck ran 100% the same after swapping the filter.

I take that back. I'm going to change it at 500,000 miles.

 

I have to change out my fuel filter. I have that split second hesitation when slightly touching the accelerator, but she runs pretty fine otherwise with new plugs, fresh oil and filter and air cleaner, plus high octane gas. I went to do it yesterday and the way the exit flare fitting was on, I could not get the flare wrench on except in one position, which would not allow it to loosten. I will try this after work. I have soaked everything with liquid wrench a bunch of times. Why they put the fuel filter there is beyound explanation. Out of all of the cars I have worked on, that is the worst location. I like how the cross-member, torsion bar, e-brake cable and bracket, and transfer case are nice and in the way for the exit flare. I had to re-do all of the brake lines on my old ford. That was a major PITA, with all of the bends and getting the lines to match up with what they connected to. I still have to re-do the front left one as I never got that one the way I liked it. I guess if one were going to relocate the fuel filter they could, in theory use high temp and high pressure flex-fuel line from Earl's or similar, though nothing really beats a stainless steel hard-line. I guess I'm rambling. I just want to change out that stubborn fuel filter as I have a feeling those need to be changed out regularly. Will let you all know how it goes and if I learn anything. Thanks again for the tip. I will give it a try.

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-218962/

You can do it. It's not trivial, but not so difficult that it's worth complaining about.

 

Ok, but I like to complain. Anyways, I will give her a go after work. Any other tips or tricks?

 

Is there a preferred amount of gas you should have in your tank or does that not matter at all? And is it better to do it after it has been sitting for a while or after driving?

 

Good question. I would think that pressure would bleed off if sitting, but that gas amount doesn't mean much unless there is zero gas. I'm not sure what type of pump it has in the tank, but assume that if the pump is not moving, that the fuel tank will not empty out, only that which is in the line. Don't quote me on that though. In theory, since the fuel system is closed, if the gas cap is on not much fuel will syphon out since a vacuum has been created (like putting your finger over the straw in a can of soda). Any other thoughts?

 

I removed the filter with much issue. The exit line would not come off. Finally I got the flare wrench positioned just right since all I was doing was distorting the frame of the filter. Then when I picked up the bracket to clean it off the bolt that collapses it broke. I tried six ways from Sunday to get it off even trying an easy out that broke off inside of it. Drilling did not provide much as the easy out kept dulling the drill bits. Finally I used a hole saw to remove the nut and stuck piece of bolt. I then had to walk up to Ace to get a replacement nut and washer since I plan on welding it where the old one was. This project has turned into something I would have never expected. It did need replacing, but holy cow has it been tough. I haven't even put it back on yet. Oh, it spewed gas all over me. I can see why those want to relocate the darned thing.

 

If nothing else you can replace the fuel line up and down-line of the filter also. Use some anti-seize on the threads going on, should the truck make it to another fuel filter change cycle.

 

The fuel lines are in excellent shape as I did not want to go down that road. Replacing hard lines is a bugger. I made sure the flare nut was in a flare wrench and that the lines were not binding when removing. Anti-sieze is a great idea and I will totally do that. The housing got roughed up because of a bolt that siezed in the threads. Vice grips just nibbled off more and more pieces and the left over bolt ate part of an easy out making it not easy at all to fix. I drilled out the enttire nut affixed to the housing. The easy out just dulled the drill bit, so I used a hole cutter. Tomorrow I plan in tig welding a nut to a washer, then that assembly to the housing, then hopefully it will go on pretty straight forward cause I got work on Monday and I'd like to install new plug wires. I thought the job would take four hours tops, not eight (I did take a couple of smoke breaks well away from the thing and had lunch). I reccomend doing this job on a weekend just in case. The poor thing gets hit with road junk and what not all of the time. Anyway I plan on using anti-sieze on everything that has threads.

 

Use anti-seize compound. Made installation easier than it could have been without it. That was the most unpleasant job I have ever experienced. It was not tough, but a PITA*2, yet well worth it. I used a WIX filter. What made getting things back on easier, was that I had a 9/16 stubby wrench, that was made in China and was almost a perfect fit to the 14mm flare. It was able to get into tight spaces and had a nice arc. What would really be useful for this is a wratcheting flare wrench with 12 sides that is stubby. Do what mt_goat suggested and use tonnes of anti-seize on everything.

 

getting it off is easy- impact gun will do the job. Like some others have mentioned relocate it.