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Fuel filter replacement tips..for the novice!

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Old 07-19-2006, 07:42 AM
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Fuel filter replacement tips..for the novice!

Yesterday, I replaced the fuel filter for the first time on my '92 4rnr. There are no two ways about it....this job is a PITA. I thought it might be a simple matter, so looked for the part location in the FSM and got instructions from another 4x4 site. Well, it proved to be impossible to do the job according to said instructions because there is of course NO CLEARANCE!!! for a stinkin' wrench on the output side of the filter. Maybe if you had a stubby 14mm, but I don't. So, I had to get creative. Maybe what I figured out has already been done and beaten to the ground as a maintenance tip revelation, but I hadn't found the method I used anywhere to speak of. Therefore, I figure I'd post it.....if it would help anyone should they decide to replace their filter on their 2nd gen.
Hopefully, you know where your fuel filter is. If not, then it's on the inside of the frame, passenger side, between the TC crossmember and torsion bar mount. It's a tight spot, so make sure no children are around while you curse!
1) You will need
a) 14mm(9/16in) line wrench
b) 14mm open wrench
c) 19mm short socket or ratcheting wrench
d) 10mm and 12mm socket, deep
e) 6in extension
f) clean drain pan
g) A few shop towels and hand cleaner....so you can stop and have some
tea here and there.
2) Unhook the battery neg. term.
3) Light a smoke... J/K
4) Start by cracking the input line with the line wrench, then put it away. It's
of no use after this point.
5) Let fuel drain
6) Finish loosening with 14mm open wrench taking advantage of swapping
angles on the wrench for clearance as you turn the hex.
7) Next, with 12mm deep socket, remove bottom mounting bolt from filter
retainer.
8) Then, remove the top one. You'll need the 6"ext. for this.
9) Now, remove the 10mm fastener bolt (that clamps the retainer to the filter
body) allowing the filter retainer to be freed
from the filter. (note: steps 8 & 9 can be alternated) This in turn allows
you to.....
10) With the 14mm wrench hold on to the ouput line using the floor pan above
as a brace.
11) With your 19mm, grab the filter, on the fixed hex...input side, and loosen
the filter from the output line. This bypasses trying to turn a wrench on
the ouput line....the totally impossible part.
12) Pull the old filter, slide new one into the retainer bracket, and reinstall
the output line by spinning the filter onto it.
13) Install input line, the top bolt on the retainer, then the 10mm clamping
bolt to pull the retainer up against the filter. This makes the last step
easier....install the remaining 12mm retainer mounting bolt.
14) Start the motor and shut off immediately.
15) Check the filter for leaks and allow pressure to build up in the fuel system
(if there are no leaks )
16) Then grab a mug of tea and take a drive....after you have cleaned up, of
course!

Like I said, this may be no startling information, but living in the woods with no one to help your novice ars sometimes you have to figure out a lot of things by yourself. Maybe posting this will help in some other novice mechanic's search for solutions.
Old 07-19-2006, 10:33 AM
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I guess it's such a pain that the Toyota mechanics ruined the nuts so that I couldn't do it the last time I tried. I took it to my buddy's shop and he managed to do the job. He said, "The next time you change this you'll need to replace the fuel line!" Somehow Chris at RockTech was able to do it. He also said (without knowing what my buddy had said), "You'll need to cut that off the next time." I had forgotten that Jasper required that the filter be replaced to validate the warranty. I guess I better start researching fuel line replacement options for next time.

Thanks for taking the time to write up the procedure!

Last edited by Snorkeldepth; 07-19-2006 at 10:35 AM.
Old 07-19-2006, 10:43 AM
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Please for the love of God, skin and hair, put a step in between step 3 and 4! Something like 3b) STOP smoking now and be prepared for a gasoline bath.
Old 07-19-2006, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
and be prepared for a gasoline bath.
No kidding! I felt terrible when my buddy got covered in gasoline. I went running for rags. Of course, since he's in this business it didn't phase him.
Old 07-19-2006, 11:14 AM
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I definately got a face full when I did mine.
Old 07-19-2006, 12:41 PM
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im guessing this is a 22re ?
Old 07-19-2006, 01:05 PM
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You forgot one pretty important step...

Before you start taking lines apart you need to crack the fuel cap to let the pressure out or else it will spew gas for 10 minutes.

Also, next easiest way for this job is to put a BL on the truck. Believe it or not, withmy 3" BL I can do this job in 15 minutes with only 3 or 4 cusswords.

But the best I've seen is to relocate the filter to the fender. I saw someone on here do that with the stock lines... Very cool idea indeed. You should have done that while you had it off.

edit. I just noticed you said its on the frame. You must have the 3.0 v6 then. My tips apply to the 22re version of the job. They may or may not be relevant to your job at all.

Last edited by ovrrdrive; 07-19-2006 at 01:07 PM.
Old 07-19-2006, 01:37 PM
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I'd love to see a successful fuel filter relocation project on a 3VZE truck . . . . or some other creative fix for this problem like a different filter with easier to manipulate fittings, or . . . .

My truck is a 3.0 and the 1" BL didn't help much.
Old 07-19-2006, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Snorkeldepth
I'd love to see a successful fuel filter relocation project on a 3VZE truck . . . . or some other creative fix for this problem like a different filter with easier to manipulate fittings, or . . . .

My truck is a 3.0 and the 1" BL didn't help much.
Or just get an aftermarket crossmember like this and you'll have plenty of room to get to the fuel filter: http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...erskid-019.jpg
Old 07-19-2006, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
Or just get an aftermarket crossmember like this and you'll have plenty of room to get to the fuel filter
The SAS alone would probably do it . . . . No more torsion bar! I've got Bud's crossmember/skidplate and don't think I'll part with it anytime soon.
Old 07-19-2006, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Snorkeldepth
The SAS alone would probably do it . . . . No more torsion bar! I've got Bud's crossmember/skidplate and don't think I'll part with it anytime soon.
Yeah, I've got a Budbuilt ready to go on myself.
Old 07-19-2006, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Snorkeldepth
I guess it's such a pain that the Toyota mechanics ruined the nuts so that I couldn't do it the last time I tried. I took it to my buddy's shop and he managed to do the job. He said, "The next time you change this you'll need to replace the fuel line!" Somehow Chris at RockTech was able to do it. He also said (without knowing what my buddy had said), "You'll need to cut that off the next time." I had forgotten that Jasper required that the filter be replaced to validate the warranty. I guess I better start researching fuel line replacement options for next time.

Thanks for taking the time to write up the procedure!
Bum deal SD! You shouldn't have to replace the whole line, though. Mine rusted through near the fuel pump on my '86 4rnr(22re) and I just spliced into with pressure fittings. It's held impeccably for over three years now. Gee...if you do splice it you might try rerouting the lines. When I have to replace mine again I'm seriously considering it for my '92 (Elton, 3vze.. BTW). With a good tube bender, flaring tool, and appropriate hardware, it's not a difficult thing.
NP on the procedure write up. I've gotten soooooo much advice from YT I felt compelled to share it. Sharing is what being human is about....in my book!

Sorry fellas...no BL's for me. Nor crossmember mods. If I had money for that, I'd be rebuilding this 3.0 I've got sitting around! Also, my wife would feed me to the wolves if I took away the IFS...removing torsion bars. She likes the ride...it's actually her truck.

Ovrrdrive, thanks for the cap removal tip. Funny thing is, there wasn't that much pressure in the line when I cracked it. Not much fuel drained either. Maybe 3oz. Me thinks I'm having fuel delivery issues anyway. Picking up a fuel press. testing gauge tomorrow. I may need a new fuel pump.

Step 3b) Finish your smoke first....preliminary gas bath sedation!
Old 07-24-2006, 02:14 PM
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I bought a fuel filter not too long ago and after i thought about for a while, i came to the conclusion that this install really is a PITA! I am wondering if i really want to do it. Does anyone here know how much $$$ i would have to be shelling out to have a shop do this??
Old 07-24-2006, 03:28 PM
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Honestly, I couldn't tell you. I've decided that whatever anyone wants, no matter how much, is too much....especially for a job that would take me less than an hour. That being said, have you looked in your local yellow pages? Call around...find someone that works for themselves with little to no overhead. It's not a "tricky" job and hard to screw up. Unless you go to Wal-Mart!
Old 07-24-2006, 04:39 PM
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haha he brought up the Wal-Mart card. Uhhh, they suck. Yeah I guess I could call around. I just really dont like people working on my truck. Unless I TOTALLY trust them. (let me know if you find that guy!!) If its worth doing, its worth doing right. . . Right?? Right!! so who better to know if its done right is ME! So i should stop being lazy and do it then huh?
I have seen some of the aftermaths of fuel filters by people who had changed theirs and cut opened their old ones on this website, and good god do some of them look ugly!! haha, i can only imagine mine is all but the same!! if it is i will most certainly post some pics of it!
Old 07-24-2006, 05:00 PM
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HAHAHA I didn't need any of that crap dude. Yeah there is no clearance and it looks impossible at first, but even though you can only turn the wrench like 1/16 of a turn, thats all it needs usually to crack it loose and spin it the rest of the way by hand. Took me 5min
Old 07-24-2006, 10:00 PM
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Need what crap? Oh! You must mean the tip write up. Well, you just go ahead and gloat, then. Must be nice...it took you five minutes. I couldn't even turn my wrench...period. Barely could get it on. Just the position the flare nut was in, I suppose. Ahhh... but then you have a body lift. Not I, said the fly! It seems I read somewhere that could make it easier.

Last edited by thook; 07-24-2006 at 11:14 PM.
Old 07-24-2006, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by robcogliani26
haha he brought up the Wal-Mart card. Uhhh, they suck. Yeah I guess I could call around. I just really dont like people working on my truck. Unless I TOTALLY trust them. (let me know if you find that guy!!) If its worth doing, its worth doing right. . . Right?? Right!! so who better to know if its done right is ME! So i should stop being lazy and do it then huh?
I have seen some of the aftermaths of fuel filters by people who had changed theirs and cut opened their old ones on this website, and good god do some of them look ugly!! haha, i can only imagine mine is all but the same!! if it is i will most certainly post some pics of it!
Yeah...I heard someone once went in to WM to get an oil change and they put too small of an oil filter on and left the drain plug loose.
I went in to Sam's Wholesale (= Walmart) to get my tires rotated (I got my BFG's there) and the guy put the lug nuts on backwards.....the bevel facing out!
Old 08-21-2006, 11:41 PM
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Smile

THANK YOU, thook - I have followed your instructions and it went smooth as silk!
I have also soaked it in WD-40 for 3 days and just before starting working opened the fuel tank capto let the pressure out. It only bled less than a cup of petrol.
Thank you so much for a simple and so useful write-up. BTW, I haven't put the bracket 10mm bolt in because it wouldn't align properly but the filter is securely held by the bracket anyway so guess should be fine.
Old 08-22-2006, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by robcogliani26
Yeah I guess I could call around. I just really dont like people working on my truck. Unless I TOTALLY trust them. (let me know if you find that guy!!) If its worth doing, its worth doing right. . . Right?? Right!! so who better to know if its done right is ME! So i should stop being lazy and do it then huh?
I have seen some of the aftermaths of fuel filters by people who had changed theirs and cut opened their old ones on this website, and good god do some of them look ugly!! haha, i can only imagine mine is all but the same!! if it is i will most certainly post some pics of it!

As promised I FINALLY got around to replacing my fuel filter. Expecting the worst I was in for a treat (yeah right), but to my surprise the removal of the old filter was not all that bad, maybe 15 minutes, and only a couple onces of fuel spillage. Now the installation of the new filter took a few minutes longer, but all in all not as bad as expected. Dont get me wrong it wasnt exactly fun and there were some curse words, but I know it could have been worse.
Refering to one of my earlier questions in this thread: "Does anyone here know how much $$$ i would have to be shelling out to have a shop do this??"
I called around today and got an average of $80-90 plus tax. So I figure I saved a few bucks, not to mention the peace of mind it was done right.

Also as promised, I said I would post some pics of the old filter. . . . well here is what the innards looked like.

*Note: I am the 3rd owner of this truck. The previous owner was anal about scheduled repairs just like I am, the only difference is HE paid the stealership to do it, and I do all repairs myself. Only problem is I cant find the the paper work he gave me to say when/if the fuel filter was replaced. I cant imagine he wouldnt have had it replaced, but regardless I read that it needs to be replaced at every 30K miles.

You tell me if this was 30K miles ago! (I have only put on 15k)

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/PANA0530.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/PANA0532.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/PANA0533.jpg


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