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Front wheel whumping after drive axle replacement?

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Old 04-29-2011, 09:09 PM
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Front wheel whumping after drive axle replacement?

I have a 92 4x4 3vz-e with auto hubs. Just got done with drive axle replacement on both sides. After about 15 miles I started hearing a whumping coming from the passenger side. It doesn't seem to be affected by stepping on the clutch. The noise usually comes when turning, or braking. The noise is not constant.

Does anyone have any experience with this? I think that if it was the wheel bearing the noise would be constant. Is that true? Or could it be its just starting to go out.

I also took off the stabalizing bars to change the axles, and also replaced the shocks. I don't think this would have anything to do with this.

Any thoughts would be helpful.
Old 04-29-2011, 10:46 PM
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Did you do it yourself or a shop did it. If it's the shop, just take it back. They may have forgot something.
Old 04-30-2011, 05:51 AM
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I did the work myself, so no taking it back to the shop. Everything went back together fine. Getting the driveshaft out of the wheel bearing the first time was difficult before I figured out to compress the suspension to get it out much easier. I may have applied to much force to get the driveshaft out, and possibly cause my problem.

I don't see any easy fixes, so I'm planning on getting back in there to check the wheel bearing.

Any ideas?
Old 04-30-2011, 06:43 AM
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I would check the hub bearing preload again.

How did you set those?
Old 04-30-2011, 06:57 AM
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I did not check the hub bearing preload. I thought that this only needed to be done if I took off the hub nut and the entire hub. Is this not right?

From the manual it says the to loosen the hub nut, and check with a scale, and make sure the preload is 2.2 to 8.6 pounds greater. Why such a large range?

Thanks for the input.
Old 04-30-2011, 07:50 AM
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i use 4crawlers way of setting preload

ow there are two schools of thought on properly tightening the wheel bearings. First is the method documented in the Toyota Factory Service Manual:

Tighten the nuts finger tight, then using a spring scale, measure and record the seal drag while turning the hub with the scale attached to a wheel stud
Then tighten the nut and re-measure the bearing drag until it reads about 3-8? lbs more than the seal drag alone.

The second method seems to produce similar results and is a bit more straight forward:

Torque spindle nut to 43 ft. lbs.
Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
Loosen inner spindle nut
Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
Torque spindle nut to 43 ft. lbs.
Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
Loosen inner spindle nut
Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
Torque spindle nut to ~21 ft. lbs.

but if you didnt take the 54mm hub nuts off then it shouldnt need to be reset.... have you checked the lugs?
Old 04-30-2011, 08:33 AM
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Checked the lugs first thing. I never took off the hub nuts. I did try to force the drive axle threw a couple times before I figured out to compress the suspension to get it out.

I did notice that the hub nut was not in the same position as shown in the manual, but I figured that since I didnt mess with it that it was ok. I'm refering to Hanes Manual pg 8-17, 21.15 picture.
Old 04-30-2011, 09:17 AM
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yea, that fine.. i'm not sure why they want you to put the nut to a certain position.. i've never done it.
Old 04-30-2011, 10:24 AM
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Just want to confirm what the spindle nut is. Cant find it labeled in book. Is it the bolt under the cover that screws into driveaxle, or is it the bearing adjusting nut?
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