RaginYota

I will be starting a SAS in about 3 weeks. I am trying to find out what people are using for a front locker. I would love to do ARB but it is just to expensive atm.

What would you use for gearing with 33's now and 35's later as this is what I am going to converting to in the future. My 33's have to much meat to get rid of now...lol... anyway I am currently running 4.56 and was wondering if they would be good. This is also a DD.

I have been leaning towards 4.88, whatcha think?

Thanks in advance!!!

Jeremy

fireman1559

you can use this for your gears http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartable.htm

RaginYota

thanks for that link!

Matt16

That chart isn't accurate for pre-'95 Toyotas. Try to get as close to factory final drive as possible for economy and power. Rule of thumb is divide your tire size by 6.8 (5spd.)/ or 6.3 (auto) and round up. So, 33/ 6.3= 4.85. No one makes a 4.85 diff, so go to the 4.88. With a 32/6.8 = 4.7 which is half way in between, BUT you always round up, so you get 4.88s.

bruzer

4.88 for 33's. 5.29's for 35's. If your already running 4.56's gears and plan on running 35's, you might as well lean towards the 5.29s. you will loose some top end speed running 33's with 5.29s. But atleast you wont feel the need to regear when yo go to 35's.
As far as a locker goes. I run a detroit in the rear and a lock right up front since I couldn't afford the arb when I did my build. i could of gone detroit in the front too, but the lok right disengages easier then the detroit making it a bit easier to steer. hope this helps.

Matt16

My Aussie has been great in the rear, if I didn't drive on ice and snow on roads in 4wd, I think I'd have one in the front as well.

Top speed is acheived in 4th gear in these trucks (they're just not powerful enough to do it in 5th without a tailwind or downhill), meaning you won't really loose any top end speed, you'll just be reving higher. I've tried driving around staying below 3k rpm or and driving around almost always above 3k, and it doesn't make much of a difference (as long as you accelerate at the same rates), so i doubt you'll notice the extra revs. Go 5.29s if you're going 35s, I missed that bit.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

one thing to consider for a front locker since an ARB is out is a E-locker. You can convert a front end to e-locker so that would give you a similar advantage to the ARB with out having to deal with driving a locked FE in the snow.
I have front and rear aussie's in my '81 Trekker trail rig and am using a Twin stick so I can pop my truck out of 4 WD easily if I find I am binding the front axle (no longfield axles yet)
What year axle are you using for your SAS?

RaginYota

I am getting an 85 front axel.

Another thing, I did my build backwards and I thought that I would be happy with it...LMAO..

I I reuse my detroit if I regear? Or do I have buy another one if I change from 4.56?

Thanks again!

NYChopshop

For your gears with 35's, I would say go 5.29. Personally, I'm keeping IFS and 33's, so I was already thinking about 4.88's, but I havnt even really figured out which gearset I have on my own truck yet.

I would say if you werent doing SAS to get a limited slip for the front diff, but if you're going through all that expense, an ARB is probably the way to go up front. Divorced transfer case with any genuine locker up front in my opinion. I would get a rear 3rd member with a factory e-locker and gears set up, but that means modifying the axle housing or replacing it. My approach will be replacing the thing with a trail-gear rock assault housing for $400 plus the optional $75 filler cap. Match that with a fully assembled e-locker 3rd member and I should have the axle in in no time. Oh, I also have to think about swapping my rear coils out at some point, so then if ever!


When I got my 94 4runner it came with 31's on it, and the p2crapcrap size tires on the door-sill. Does that mean (since I have a manual tranny) that I have the highest possible gearset? I notice sluggishness with 31's, but thats probably the 3.0l under the hood. If I were to swap to a 1uzfe, should I even bother with regearing for 33's? I might just take advantage of the more power and keep the highway gas mileage. I don't ever plan on going with bigger tires than that. *on this truck. That would also let me go grab some junkyard e-locker 3rd member with the factory gearing and forgo the nearly thousand dollar expense of a custom geared e-locker 3rd member. hmmm, the possibilites.