Im letting a front locker dwindle in my mind..

Congrats though..

 

I ripped mine up pretty good the first time. by far the hardest of the 4 cone lock sunsob... i have worked on. So i went to dealer and got a new set for from what i remember to be less than 10 bucks. now, with prober torque i can remove them with a little ping of my brass sledge. flawless


my thought of a mod to go with the stud to bolt conversion would be removing the clip from the inner axle and just running the outer bolt (under the dust cap. have not thought about this deeply and im not sure how much lateral movement that clip prohibits and if the bolt would sufice as a lock for the outer halfshaft. Something maybe ill try someday. with my sdor BJ spacers i can remove the half shaft with minimal wrenching, i think just the lower shock.

 

You know... with the SAS, I hardly use my front locker (arb), but whenever I do need it its a huge help...I say go for it, $150 isnt a bad price for one, yeah its 15 years old, but its really a basic part, not really much to go wrong. But if you are worried about the age, I would do what ocdropzone said and keep you other 4.88 diff just in case it does break!

 

Please tell me you are now a doctor or lawyer!

 

Damn, wish I had seen this thread the first time around. I am SO tired of the "install a front locker and your CV's will spontaneously explode" web wheeler crap.

Yes, if you get a tire wedged, a locker can amplify the damage. But you know what? If the tire is that wedged, you ain't making that line anyway and need to back off and try again.

Lockers will SAVE CV's in many more situations - namely every time a tire comes off the ground.

IMHO, the front locker makes MORE of an improvement in an IFS trucks capability than a rear, but it does have more drawbacks.

My twinstick can get very stuck in 4WD and be a son of a gun to shift into 2WD. I would not want to be counting on that technique to be able to turn!

 

I wouldnt put a full time locker on my IFS, I'd much prefer an LSD. With a full time locker, unfortunately broken parts is an if and not a when. If you do put it on, I would seriously advise you get yourself a twin-stick t-case conversion done AND a pair of Aisin front manual locking hubs. Gives you the option to go genuine 2wd or 3wd if you bust a cv or an axle. One thing it also lets you do, is be locked in reverse, which auto locking hubs will not do, kind of being a huge waste of a locker whilst backing up. Wabfab has all the stuff you need, from what I can see. Good luck!

 

I have been running my Lock-Rite in the front for a long time now and i have nothing but good things to say about it. I have raised hell on hill climbs and in the rocks with mine and haven't had any major damage. Just be smart and dont drive stupidly on the trail.

Toyota's automatic lockers are ADD (automatic differential disconnect) and they do not disengage until you take the truck out of 4x4. No matter if you put teh truck in reverse or not.

Go for it and do not look back, you will not regret putting it in your truck.

 

Soon. Just took medical Boards yesterday . So now I finally have stuff to do some wrenching and finally install all the stuff that I've been accumulating in the garage for the last couple months .

I have both front and rear lockrights, as well as a twin stick to install sometime this weekend or next week. I'll let everyone know how it goes once I get it all done.

TC: Regarding your twin stick...Have you noticed that many other people have the similar complaint about it being hard to engage? I bought a Dave'z setup, which I've heard great things about. I haven't heard anyone say that it is hard to engage/disengage on the trail. Is there a certain "trick" in the install that you're aware of? It could potentially get really annoying if I install the twin stick but then it doesn't work when I need it to!

 

I bought my dual case setup used - the stuff was already done for the twinstick, so I'm not sure. I'm sure the torque from the dual cases and lockers adds to drivetrain bind.

 

What? ADD has nothing to do with locking diffs, its an axle disconnect system to reduce wear and tear.

 

Ya, i know. What i was saying, was in reference to what NYChopshop said about when in reverse and 4wd that the hubs will unlock and you will be stuck in 2wd. I was just saying that the trucks WILL infact stay in 4wd and the factory toyota hubs do not work like that.

 

i belive the comment about reverse was made specific to a detroit locker. thats how i saw it. no knowledge of truth but very curious. that would be the beiggest reason i haven't heard of to not go detroit.

I am also curious of something else. Did someone talk about putting manual locking hub on an add equiped vehicle. this would stop the half shafts from spinning which are already disconected from the diff which is also not being spun by t-case? Why?

 

It's for just what you said, stopping the halfshafts from spinning. You can save the wear and tear on your cv boots, mainly, so they aren't torn and letting crap get in the joints while you're wheeling. It's also another way to get 2lo.

 

I love being locked.. it makes a huge difference. I did SAS, lockrite, 5.29's and longs in the front.. love it

 

I have a front Aussie and recently put in a TG twinstick. I really like the combo. In two years with the aussie, I've never broken anything. My TG twinstick shifts just fine from 2wd to 4wd and hi to lo. If anything, I wish I would have gotten the HD tcase springs to engage the shift rail a little tighter. I still may do that.