toyNG

This thread is going to seem like the typical "should I run a front locker" post, so I apologize. But it's slightly different, so please read on.

Here's my situation... I have a set of both front and rear third members with 4.88s sitting in my garage waiting to be installed. My plan was to install a Lockright into the rear and then run the front open. I had previously written off the idea of a front locker. Mainly because I am afraid that I might spend more time repairing cv's on the trail rather than actually riding the trail, in addition to the cost of replacing broken parts.

But now I have the opportunity to buy a complete IFS with 4.88s and a lockright for $150. So assuming I am able to sell my 4.88 open IFS third for a similar price, I could essentially get a front lockright for free.

The question is: Should I? Would you? My main concern is that the front locker will ultimately end up costing me more money in repairs.

By the way, if I got the front locker, I would still be running a rear locker as well. So, this isn't a "front OR rear" question; rather, it's a "rear OR rear + front" question. In addition, I would install a twin-stick setup if I got the front locker.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

I say go for it, what do you have to lose? Besides a CV axle

If it breaks, build it stronger. If it breaks more, put something bigger under there.

yoterr

ohhhh that sounds nice, buddy of mine's got a 3rd gen with lockrights front and rear 5.29's and 35"s and he brakes a cv maybe once every 6 months..... i think, and if he does he bought cv's from autozone with liftime replacement so he just takes it off and gets a free one....kinda nice actually

toyNG

How long does it take to replace a cv on the trail? I've never done so, so I'd have to practice at least once in the garage.

I just checked the autozone website, and their cv's cost $90, so I definitely don't want to be breaking cv's very often. If I'm easy on the skinny pedal and choose my lines carefully, can I bring the probability of cv carnage down to the same level that it's at with open diffs?

yoterr

oh yes drastically, ive mostly seen CV's and Birfs brake while the wheels are turned in either direction and the guys gooseing it a little and truck bounces a few times then snap, but like i said you can get the cv's with a lifetime warranty if they do happen to brake, and to change one out on the trail, ide have to say a wee bit of a PITA but not tooo big just have to deal with the aisn cone washers.

yoterr

lol just to add...i would do it, youll prolly regret it later when your stuck cuz a wheel is off the ground

[N8]

I had to do my 1st one this weekend and I'd say after some experience you could do it in 30 mins or less if your not stuck in a tuff spot. Took me about an hour, but I had never taken one off my 4runner before, so I had to learn how they came apart.

I'd recommend IFS manual hubs as well.

BlackBox

cone washers are a snap. just get yourself a blunt end brass punch for your trail box. tap the end of the studs with that punch/hammer and the cone washers pop right out! do yourself a favor tho and get comfy replacing your cv's at home.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

My first thought was "no don't do it" But I really like the idea of the twin stick on the t case. You can take it completely out of the equation when you need/want to. You will also have the option to get 3wd if you really need a front by unlocking one hub and engaging the twin stick. Good idea.

You know about the cv quick change mod?

toyNG

Yea I think the twin stick will help reduce wear on the front end. It seems that most people who run twin sticks are happy with them, but I've heard someone say that it's super difficult to engage the 4wd-2wd stick while on the trail. From what I've heard, that doesn't seem to be the norm though.

After the responses so far, I'm definitely leaning towards getting the front lockright. I installed a set of 4.7 gears about a month ago. I wish I would have just done the twin sticks then while the t-case was on the bench!

What's the cv quick change mod?

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

So look at those nuts and bolts on the axle stub. They are actually nuts and unmoving studs. Knock or press those studs out and either replace with high grade nuts and bolts, or simply grind down the splines on the studs and make bolts out of them. That way you gain a bit more clearance to get the CV out of there. I never did it myself as I never broke a CV after learning of this and am now SA, but I understand you can get the CV out without removing all the rotor and hub stuff. You still have to remove the locking hub and get the c clip off the CV but by cranking the wheel all the way in one direction and having the studs out of the way, you can pull the CV without removing all the other stuff on the spindle.

Regarding the twin stick, I wonder if you sometimes have to back up a few feet just like regular 4wd to shift back to 2wd. Also, confirm your tranny. It doesn't work with the w56C or w56D, though from your sig I suspect you have a w56B or g54.

toyNG

After reading threads like this one https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...le-nuts-91766/ , I definitely think I need to replace those studs. But even so, it doesn't seem like that fun of a repair to be doing on the trail. I guess I'm left with not choice but to do a SAS ...I wish!!!

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, but that can be a whole other can of worms...

That thread sounds like a real nightmare. As someone else posted, get familiar with this job in your garage the first time. Then clean up your hardware and work in some anti seize during the re-assembly.

toyNG

The SAS will come eventually, but probably after I pay off $200k in education loans!!

Here's some more history I just obtained about the third member I'm thinking of buying.
- lockright installed in 1995 by owner
- 4.88s installed in 2002 by professional shop. Lockright was reinstalled and looked perfect at that time
- The last time the diff/locker was used was over a year ago, at which point it ran perfectly according to owner. He removed it when he did a SAS.
- total miles on truck since installing locker is 70k. The owner says he mostly did mild-moderate wheeling. He also has a rear locker, and thus only locked the front hubs if he approached an occasional obstacle. So only a tiny fraction of the 70k on the truck has been with the locker in use.

Is any of the history of particular concern? The fact that the lockright is almost 15 years old seems a bit sketchy to me. But like I said, it's actual use has been much less than it's age would suggest. Opinions?

Junkers88

Don't think about it just do it. 150$ for a locked 4.88 front IFS is a great price.

Hell if you decide you don't want it then buy it and sell it to me for 200$ and I'll start my search for a locked 4.88 rear.

yoterr

well if it helps, my buddy has had his 5.29's and lockrites for over a year now with moderate wheeling EVERY WEEKEND, and they have been uninstalled and reinstalled a couple of times in the rear, and they still work perfectly

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

for that price buy the front with locker, KEEP your other 4.88 in case you do break something besides a CV upfront..cheap insurance and doesn't take up much room.

as far as the twin stick with the front locker, I love mine..

toyNG

That thought crossed my mind. However, I thought that the differential itself almost never breaks. The reason being that the cv's are the weak link, and thus will break before the differential ever gets a chance to. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Which twin stick setup are you running? I'm thinking about getting the one made by Dave'z Offroad.

toyNG

I called the seller and am going to go pick it up tomorrow night!

toyNG

Just picked it up! Opened it up and everything looks good inside. Locker looks great and the ring teeth do as well. I won't have time to install it until late June, so it'll just be sitting in the garage for a month.