AUYota

I tried using the search engine and only got piece-meal comments about this. I am about to rebuild the front end of my 2nd gen Runner. I am going to replace the idler arm, pitman arm, and both tie rods and adjusting sleeves. I am also going to replace the steering kit as it's completely shot. The relay rod was replaced on that recall a few months back so it's fine.

1.) Are there any other things I should replace/look at while I'm down there. I had a friend say something about replacing the wheel bearing and the CV axles (all have 250k mi., don't know about wheel bearings but the CV axles are fine)

3.) Any special tools i'll need? I know I need a puller, but I got a complete ratchet and wrench set so far, but will I need more?

2.) Also this will be my biggest mechanical venture thus far. I've turned wrenches before but I don't have a crap load of experience. In short is this a fair undertaking for a novice?

UKMyers

I'd look at replacing your spindle bearings and upper and lower ball joints. Get you some of those cheap tie rod/ball joint pullers from Harbor Frieght or JC Whitney they work wonders. Also make sure and start spraying everything down a week in advance with PB Blaster it's gonna be a PIA to get that stuff apart. Also while I'm thinking of it do a search for rebuilding your Idler arm. No sense in totally replacing it it's simple and cheap to rebuild. Good luck with your project!

AUYota

UK,

thanks for the info- as for the Idler Arm- the entire arm is like 30-40 bucks, so it's no biggie just to buy the new one and have all the bushings installed (rockauto.com). Also what are the spindle bearings, where are they, are those the same as wheel bearings? the ball joints are a good idea too- while I'm at it how about some 1" spacers? I was also thinking of a new (off-road) steering dampener as well...

Any other idears?

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Don't install the BJ spacers unless you really want them, i.e. you want to go to a larger/wider tire than 33X10.5. Your brand new front end will be stressed in a a manner that the smart little Japanese men who designed it never intended it to be.

I *think* that the spindle bearings are the same as the wheel bearings. I have redone those before and it's not too bad. If you are going to do those you need one of those 40-something mm sockets.

Old Man Emu makes a good steering dampener. I am running one and I like it. My front end is pretty worn and the steering is a bit sloppy but it seemed to help some.

For a job like this you may want to invest in a manual. You could check on eBay for a FSM or get a Haynes or something. That way you'll have all the little steps for the procedures and the values you need like bearing preload and torque spec. I think that factory torque specs are pretty important when you're dealing with your steering components...

Fo by Fo

Check all the bushings and bump stops etc. when your down there. When I replaced my CV's I noticed my control arm bushings are probobly bad. I'm planning on going through my whole front end when I get new tires and probobly install bj spacers and some other things so I can get it all done at once an align it afterwards.

ovrrdrive

I just did mine a few weeks ago. It's well worth the time and money for sure. It drives like a new truck.

Definitely go ahead and do the upper and lower ball joints and if you think you want bj spacers now is the time for that too. That way you only pay for one alignment.

I have them on my new front end and they haven't destroyed anything. As a matter of fact, if you're going to run them I'd do it on a new front end before I would a used one. That's a no brainer.

ovrrdrive

Oh and btw:

1) Already mentioned the ball joints. Wheel bearings you should at the least check, clean, and repack. If they show any wear replace them too.

2) It's not a bad job. You'll fight with the ball joints the most but even they aren't bad. You'll need a floor jack and some patience to line everything back up with them. The rest is just unbolt, separate, and replace.

3) Definitely get a ball joint and Pittman arm puller set from the store. Most auto parts stores have a loaner program and you can borrow their tools for free. With a pickle fork and a puller set you'll be able to handle all that's in there. You will not get the Pittman arm off without the correct puller. It's a mother f'er. I think standard metric sockets up to 19mm, a pickle fork, puller set, PB blaster, and a BFH and you should be fine...

chroad

Definitely get a spindle nut, and WabFab's is probably the best since it is properly sized and fits a 3/8" drive socket.

If you replace the control arm bushings, I think you'll have a challenge there. I was going to do it when I had front end apart, but I knew I couldn't get them out myself. In retrospect, I wish I had done it because those are the only pieces of stock rubber I haven't replaced. I have a plan to do it, but a plan is just that and it is not done yet.

I did not replace my ball joints--maybe I should have--but they didn't seem bad.

Wheel bearings = spindle bearings, and as said, check them. They probably just need to be cleaned and repacked. I'm probably insulting your intelligence, but make sure you use appropriate grease to repack them. I had a bearing fail on my first car because some idiot used a multi-purpose grease to pack the bearings.

I run the OME steering damper and recommend it.

If you've ever thought about upgrading your torsion bars, go ahead and do it. I always forget how much of a pain it is to get those things back on until I'm trying to do it.

In case you haven't fully convinced yourself of this, be sure that you're CV axles don't need replacing because now is the perfect time to do it.

I am running 1.5" BJ spacers, and am pleased. I run 32's. It is true that it is a different stress than for what the engineers designed, but Toyota's are typically overbuilt. Still, if you're going to install them, you might want to give more consideration to things like the heavier t-bars, Sonoran's IFS truss, new ball joints, poly bushings... stuff like that if you're going to run them. I do not have the IFS truss on my truck yet, but that will be my next purchase.

Lastly, think about your brakes while you're at it. Rotors and pads are pretty cheap, and since you've got it off...

You could do a lot of stuff while you have it torn down, but most of us are limited in practice by cash flow.

AUYota

I'll probably just leave the ball joint spacers alone for now. I plan on getting a lift kit from Old man Emu and will likely get it professionally installed. I'm just going to make sure it's got a fresh front end.
I got a Haynes manual on it and it looks rather straight forward. If anyone has any pdf pages of this proceedure from offical manufactures manual that would be cool too.

chroad

Yeah, I doubt I would mess with the BJ spacers if I were going to get the OME lift.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
The above is a link where a guy scanned in most of the FSM from a 93 truck. Obviously the rear is different, but the front end is the same, so it should be helpful. I like the FSM better than the Haynes manuals, but I've never used the Haynes much either so I may not know what I'm talking about.

AUYota

chroad,

thanks for the link, and BTW War Eagle!

chroad

War Eagle!

Did you go to Auburn, or just a fan?

881stGenRunner

AUYota, when you replace the tie rods count the number of threads that are visible, and screw the new ones of til that number of threads are showing again. that way you are not so completely of of alignment.

chroad

That's a good point, and you can also do a basic alignment yourself on these trucks. I had the last one on my truck done by a shop, but since then I've personally done alignments for some friends on their Runners and had results as good as the shop did on my truck. I think Roger Brown's website (4crawler.com) has some info on driveway alignments.

ovrrdrive

I tried counting the threads but the new ones were way different so it was an effort in vain...

There is some good info on this forum posted by elripster on a driveway alignment that I used. It's not that hard to set the toe with a straight edge and a tape measure.

And btw, you can get it close with a tape measure, but there's no way you can do as good as a computerized alignment can. The guy would tap the wrench with his hand and the numbers would change. If you value your tire life, do a rough alignment in the driveway then take it in and pay for a computerized alignment.