cman1

iTrader: (1)

alright, my 1986 22re wont start.im kind of to a point where im second guessing myself...this truck has been sitting for three years before i purchaced it last august.when i brought it home it ran on three cylinders,had some bad injector harness connections and wasnt firing on #2,compression is 150 to 152 ,changed fuel,injectors,plugs,wires,cap,rotor,and soldered all my harness connections.so all my plugs are wet now,but not firing now only consistantly on one cylinder...not three.with the help of my very patient wife pointing the timing light at me while i crank the motor in a 12 degree garage,im getting constant spark on #1 cylinder,#2 cylinder will spark intermittant then quit,#3 sparks twice than quits,#4 doesnt spark at all. ive ohm checked the coil and it comes back 0.can i swap my coil off my 89 4runner 3.0 to see if that works,will it hurt anything? my runner is my daily driver. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!!

jim beam and i are great friends...

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

You should not have any problems using the 3.0 coil on the 22RE motor. Are you sure that the rotor is installed correctly ? Plug wires are pushed all the way onto the plugs? No moisture inside the cap? Not trying to question you just want to cover all the basic stuff to make sure. The ignitor is another story. You will have to do some wiring to make that fit. Plugs should be different.

If you need a coil, I have 3 setting on my shelf in my garage. I pulled 2 of them out of a 4runner that I parted out, they are from a V6. I also have another unit that is from an early 22r motor as well. I have tried it on mid 80's rigs and the plugs are close, but different as well. If you end up needing them, let me know.

From what you talk about, it sounds like the coil isn't holding a charge as per your instructions with the bleeding down of spark until none is found. If the coil is good, it should ohm out and then bleed off.

cman1

iTrader: (1)

thanx, first chance i get ill try this and post what happened.ill pm ya on a couple parts i could use.

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

I replyed to your pm.

Hopefully its the coil and would mean an easy fix!

Mauzer

This thread title is misleading, I thought this was going to be some weird discussion on chlamydia

cman1

iTrader: (1)

well, i swapped out my coil off my runner...same.this thing will actually run on one cylinder!!im at a loss.im gonna try a diff coil assy w/igniter and see what happens.anybody got any words of wisdom?im running out of funds.....

sam333

Has the truck run good at all since you have had it? A timing light is not always the best way to check for spark . Have you pulled the plugs and grounded them while cranking or used a spark checker. Its unusual to have just one plug firing.

It meant to said " A timing light is NOT always the best way to check for spark"

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

Go with "if all else fails". Ha Ha

You either have an ecu that is malfunctioning, ignitor that isn't working, or a wiring problem. Those are are the only things that would be connected to the ignition as a source of the lack of spark. Not necessarily in that order.

Since funds are the issue, I would start with the cheapest possible answer and then eliminate it and move on.

Most likely wiring unless you have another ignitor laying around. I gather that you don't.

Trace all the wires out. You said that you resoldered everything. Did you ground a wire out on accident? Cross a wire. Did you plug the distibutor back in. It should have two plugs that run across the front of the top of the motor.

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

sam333- No he said that he bought it and it had been sitting for a long while and only ran on 3 cylinders. He did some general maintance and is now down to 1 cylinder firing. I would guess that it has to be a wiring issue.

cman1

iTrader: (1)

why would my spark get weaker as it goes down the line??? what exactly does the igniter do?

sam333

My first post was meant to say that a timing light is NOT always the best way to check for spark( a weak spark wont always show up on a timing light).
The spark does not "get weaker" as it goes down the line. Each spark is its own event( the coil "recharges" for each plug firing). The reason I asked about the way you checked for spark is that it is unusual to have one plug firing unless it is a problem from the rotor to the plugs. If your ingitor or coil or even ditributor was bad you would have no spark or intermitant spark at all cylinders. You may have a weak spark on all cylinders.
Have you checked your initial timing? Have checked the airgaps in the distrbuter? ignitor ground? Grab the end of the distributer shaft and see if there is any play.

cman1

iTrader: (1)

well, ive got a matching coil/igniter on the way from a supposed good running truck that was wrecked,im gonna pull the hood off so i can see better and start chasing grounds if this doesnt work. feakin neverending............

sam333

In a nut shell, the computer tells the igniter when to fire the coil so you get spark. The computer turns a transistor on in the igniter, grounding the primary windings of the coil( magnetic field) and turns the transistor off, collapsing the magnetic field and inducing high voltage in the secondary windings and out to the plugs ( spark).

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I think Sam333 and 85(who sound very electronically APT by the way) are on to something, here, 'C'. If I were chasing this issue, I would immediately start with a checklist,

1. Wires(I actually had 5 bad wires on my Cressida)
2. Cap & Rotor
3. Distributor Air Gap, Secondary/Pick-up Coil Resistance and Measurable Play in Shaft
4. Coil and Ignitor resistance and grounding
5. ECU Function/measurements (Ig-E2.... or something like that)
6. Check readings on all ground wires,

Etc., lol.

I hope the donor Ignitor or Coil does the trick, but it seems to be more of an constant and steady problem(meaning, only #1 is firing).... so it sounds to me more like a dead sender in the ECU or something(Sorry, not sure ''sender'' is the right term...but I hope you get my point).

I'll read through all the comments asap, just had time to read that last couple and comment.

Mark

PS> Did you ever pull the Dizzy and possibly re-install it 180* off? That happened to a buddy and he couldn't get anything but an occasional "pop.........................pop", lol. Also, suggested by 85, if someone get's crossed or grounded out with the battery connected, ...it CAN, very easily, damage the ECU or any other Ig components(depending on what wiring you were working on). If you found it go from running on 3 to now 1, AFTER you worked on the wiring..... might just be where I'd start.

cman1

iTrader: (1)

im gettin up and firing up the heater in the morning and do just that.the PO had put new wires,plugs,cap and rotor on previously,but when? who knows.ill start with the coil/igniter swap and work from there.i havent even looked at the ecm yet.as far as disconnecting the battery,im usually pretty good about that when it comes to anything electronic. i checked the distributer for slop and no movement up and down or side to side.the firing issues started after i repaired the corroded harness,soooo.....im goin in

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like a plan, C. If you just search back through my troubleshooting and build threads, you'll find a bunch of Photos of the ECU testing pages. I did EXTENSIVE testing of the ECU and related components in those threads, and there might just be something that could save you LOTS of time, .....and possibly CABBAGE! EH? LOL.

Best wishes, and STAY WARM....watch them knuckles! hhehe.

Mark

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> Another reason the ECU testing or otherwise Multi-Meter testing is a great idea possibly.... What if something is crossed or grounded.... You could just end up frying another Coil and ignitor.(IF, of course, they're the problem).... I don't mean to put a wrench in your plans, C, promise. I was just thinking out loud. I guess it's more likely that something went awry when doing some wiring and maybe just shorted something out. You probably got most of that right... Again, was just thinking out loud.

I'll be watching and hoping for the best.

Mark

cman1

iTrader: (1)

thanx chef,im heading out now...i hope the heater can keep up!!!.its freakin -6 outside...talk about determined....or just stupid!!!hehe

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Maybe a lil a both? ....Been there, trust me! lol. BTW, doesn't 'freezing' bring us to a bit of a 'stupid' level, ANYWAY, just through a natural, physical consequence of, well, BEING FREEZING? hahaha.

Best wishes, hope you're finding the ticks, asap!

cman1

iTrader: (1)

alright,im back to running on 3 cylinders,1,3,4.two has spark but is not firing.i have 12 volt power at the injector connector with the key on,im gonna have to go back and get that damn noid light kit again arent i?? i ran it up to temp and all other cyl seem fine,friggin thing will even idle,on three cylinders...to reinerate,fixed wiring harness,new injectors,all new ignition parts plugs,wires,dizzy cap and rotor, good spark to all,good pressure on all 4 cylinders,150 to 152. any bones will be gladly taken!!!!!!!

on my way to the liquer store