gyoas759

Been researching and found almost everything I needed on this site. The one thing I couldn't find an answer for... I'm pulling the old W56 trans and replacing it with a used one I picked up. My clutch is in good shape so I'm not replacing it. What needs to be done to realign the existing clutch as I put the new trans in? clutch and forks are new territory for me.

Shifty762

If you don't remove your clutch plate you should just need to carfully guide you input shaft into the pilot bearing.

I may be wrong its been a while since I did this and it was with a VTEC FWD car.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

While in there be a shame not to do a rear main seal.
Cheap insurance.

:wabbit2:

gyoas759

Thanks for the advice. One more question. Do I need to use RTV silicone or similar between the transmission and transfer case? About to seperate the old trans from the T case and not sure if a seal/gasket is necessary?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Toyota RED FIPG

:wabbit2:

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

How did this turn out? Did you do the rear main seal?

I have a used W56 in my garage that I need to swap in and will likely get a new clutch and do the rear main seal too while in there.

Just curious if you could share any insights for those doing this for the first time

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

phil, easy peasy. Just make sure to put a micro sleeve on your crank before installing the rear main. Other wise the groove on the crank will create an oil leak and you'll be doing it again...doing one my slef in 15 minutes, waiting for the truck to show up now!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the tip! newb question but where do you get the micro sleeve and what material is it? I feel like a recent timing cover gasket kit came with a similar sleeve but I hadn't used it (and of course have no idea where it is now....).

turkey

not tryin to steal this thread but i just rebuilt my r150 and it shift great very smooth but it was leaking around input seal so i pulled it back out cleaned bearing cover very well and replaced seal very carefully not to bend or break anything and i put it back and it went right back to leaking is there some kind of trick to this seal? this is the first trans ive done very new to me.

aquaprice

I'd also look at the input shaft seal of the tranny you are putting in.

gyoas759

As a first timer, I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it went. I did not end up replacing the rear main seal. It was a $50. transmission in a $500. work truck. I sort of pride myself on how little this truck ever requires to stay running well. If I need to do it later, I will. My only real difficulty was that I did the swap without the aid of a transmission jack. I got creative with some ratcheting straps wrapped around the floor of the truck to drop the old trans and lift the new one. The other difficult part is getting to the bolts on the bell-housing. Not impossible but requires some creativity and flexibility on my part to get to them all. So yeah, I wouldn't worry at all trying it for the first time. If I can do, most people can.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Surprised, I split the two and bench press them in & out. Faster, & safer since there is no jack to topple over. I only use a jack to hold the rear of the tranny up while doing the t-case just to avoid damage to the firewall. If you do not like 2qts of gear oil on your chest, drain the t-case first.

Bako88

I learned this lesson the hard way with the front engine seal. I lost most of the engine oil before I knew what happened. That groove will tear a new seal up quick. It could have been much worse since I caught it before the engine was completely dry. That was 30K miles ago. I strongly recommend the sleeve.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys! Still wondering where to get the seal, what it's made of and how it's put on?

I have a tranny jack nearby I can borrow from a coworker, thankfully!

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

Sorry Phil, did not get back on the forums until today. Here is the deal:

called a Micro sleeve or repair sleeve it is a very thin piece of steel/aluminum not really sure to be truthful, that slides right over the crank. This would be the first thing to do upon putting everything back to gether.

here is a nice little link to the catalog of the company I use. I have a supplier here locally that gets them for me, so I haven't ordered from them direct, but any parts place should be able to get them for you, I think there is a little intro as well on this link that explains the process:

http://www.microsleeve.com/pdf/MS_Catalog06.pdf

Now keep in mind, these micro sleeves are as thin as paper, or so it seems when working with them. Here is how I get them on.

clean the crank surface

apply a THIN coat of grease (THIN THIN THIN)

by hand, coax the sleeve onto the crank so it is pretty tight making sure the sleeve is going on even all the way around.

Once you get the sleeve on as far as you can by hand, get a small piece of wood that will cove the WHOLE sleeve, 2x4 ends work well.

VERY lightly tap the sleeve on using the wood as a buffer, a couple of LIGHT taps on the edge all the way around will guide the sleeve on a little at a time. BE PATIENT you do not want to be the sleeves edge or get it out of round. make sure the lip of the sleeve is completly flush with the crank and your ready to bolt the rear main and frame back on!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks orrunner! will do that certainly! Truck passed smog finally so now just need to get datsun pitt of garage and get this project going