94toyota4x4

I have a 94 toyota pickup 4x4, with a 22re, I have a few questions, the manifold bolts where the manifold meets the exhast piping keeps coming loose and causing it to leak, its real annoying, any one have any suggestiojns? my rear is lower than my front, I havent had my truck for more than 2 months soimm not sure if its sagging? The front is raised do to tighting of the torrsion bars so im not sure if the rear is sagging or not, but I know the rear sits lower than the front, and I put this a million times and I still havent got it answered, so I guess its worh another shot, can I put a Lunchbox locker in myself? Im real mechanical, but havent had much experence with rear differentails, how much would it cost to put a locker and gears in the rear and gears in the front 4x4 drive diff., any advice will help? Thanks

94toyota4x4

Anyone?

Flash319

Your clamping might be to tight on the exhaust pipe not allowing it to move when the engine moves around. Also the studs might be stripping causing them to jump a few threads. As for the locker, what is a "lunchbox locker"?

Elton

i had that problem so i bought a lce header when they where cheap the best money ive spent on my truck and the best increase in power

MMA_Alex

the rear is probably stock height more or less with the torsion bars cranked up in the front. you can crank the front back down, or do something to lift the rear (extended shackles, lift blocks, longer springs, etc.)

Saint_Berzerker

Yeah, I would definately turn your torsion bars down. Check that you set it to where your bumpstops are at least 3/4" space or more. I'm not sure of the "spec" height. If you lower the front to where the bumpstops are that low and the rear still sags...then your leafs are worn.

When I changed my downpipe and cat, I had a heck of a time with those 3 bolts too that go to the exhaust manifold.

If the bolts are stripped or whatever, just use new ones. The originals are studs, so just unscrew them.

If you try to tighten them from the engine bay, it's hard. I got a long extension and did it from under the truck. That way I was able to get a lot more torque when tightening. I think I got a 2' socket extension and that was long enough.

I was still getting a little leak, so I just caked the freaking donut gasket thing with muffler sealer or whatever it was to seal it for sure.

Don't know anything about lockers!

94toyota4x4

Well im going to lossen up a clamp to the exhast so its not so tight when the engine torpues, the bolts arent strip there good I just tighten the hell out of them and its working a lot better but to make sure it doesnt happen im going to lossen that clamp, as for the torsion bars I tried to lossen them and that adjust nut wont budge Im afraid that Im going to round it off, does anyone know what size wrench goes on the adjusting not because I cant tell for crap. THanks for your guys help.

MMA_Alex

jack up the truck its way easier. it should be a 22mm? if i remember correctly

94toyota4x4

I dd have it jacked up but its cool I checked the gap between the bump stop and the a-arm and its about an inch off so Im good.

AH64ID

What clamp are you going loosen on the exhaust? If you talking the one on the tranny that will probally make your problem worse. I would replace the stud that keeps backing out. The nuts on the manifold are also onetime nuts, so if its loose, take it off and replace it with another OEM exhaust manifold nut.

As far as the saggy rear syndrome if you still sag after the tbars are back to a "stock" setting your springs are probally worn out. Some here would suggest a AAL, but that would only be a really bad bandaid and probally make your springs fail sooner. Either get new springs, or try some junk yard ones from a rig with fewer miles. If you go with a new spring I suggest OME, really good ride and quality.

94toyota4x4

Well theres only one clamp on my truck at the tranny, I guess Im going to go put it back on, custom exhast, theres a hanger on the muffler but thats it, its still damn sturdy, Im going to go get some bolts that are longer so I can put a locking nut so it stops backing out, right now it has random bolts that fit, when I first got it, it was missing 2 out of 3!

AH64ID

Yeah, that clamp is there to help keep the manifold from cracking. I would see about getting some OEM studs, youll have a better chance of them not getting stuck with the heat.

Five1Nine8Eight

Your going to need a hanger at the trans and the muffler.

I had a custom exhaust built on my 22RE (headers, hi-flo cat, flomaster) turned down before the axle. I only had hangers on the muffler. Well it must have cracked 3 times in the same spot in about 2 months (right after the collector). After I put a hanger on just before my cat, I ran it with no cracks for the last 6 months.

My exhaust bolts were always coming loose I used jam nuts + hi-temp thread locker and as tight as I could get them without a cheater bar.