nope, dont got ac.

hmm, yeah i read your awesome thread about. But to be honest i really dont think i'd use it enough. I dont wheel to much and yeah.

on other note, i really want to order my aussie tomorrow

 

Well, after even more reading, I've narrowed down my choices to either the Lockright, or the No-Slip Locker by Powertrax. Prolly be going with the Lockright, it's over $100 cheaper. Thank guys, I appreciate all the info and stuff!

 

whats difference with a lockright and aussie?

 

http://www.offroadlockers.com/faq.ph...c28/f5b7/.html

C&P from Aussie locker's manufacturer, seeing as Lockright are the biggest competitor, its safe to assume they are the "other design"

The most significant differences are:

Principal of operation
“Aussie Locker” uses a dynamic camming mechanism to stay locked. We use a proprietary design process that ensures that the cam area is not only designed to the tightest tolerances but is also repeatable in high volume machining processes. A competitor’s locker uses interlocking teeth and large springs to stay locked


Mechanical Design
“Aussie Locker” uses approximately half the parts due to a simpler design. It uses fewer parts than any automatic locker on the market today. Fewer parts equal higher reliability.

Case
“Aussie Locker” uses the original carrier

Smoothness of operation
Drive one and you will be able to tell which vehicle has an “Aussie Locker”

Degree of sensitivity to unlocking
“Aussie Locker” can be unlocked with 1 finger due to the use of 1 high quality bias spring.

The locking mechanism is dynamic rather than controlled by large springs

Amount of backlash
“Aussie Locker” has approximately half the backlash (none in the driving teeth)

The cost
“Aussie Locker” is more affordable. Compare our pricing to any locker on the market today.

Installation
“Aussie Locker” can be installed by almost anyone

The competitors’ locker requires an expensive specialist and special tools

Time to install
We have found that most vehicle owners can do it themselves in an hour or two

Warranty
The manufacturer of the “Aussie Locker” provides a two year limited warranty.
See the warranty for full details

Installation documentation
“Aussie Locker” comes with detailed installation instructions

 

From what I've been reading, the Powertrax says basically the same thing, but it can too be installed by any1, and in 'bout the same amount of time. The only complaint that some people have, albiet a small 1, is that at times, the Lockrite's racheting mechanism can be heard going round corners, and pulling in/out of parking spaces. And the Aussie is easier on the wallet.

 

Aussie offers a warranty that cover any size tire or horsepower. As far as I know PORC will cover the locrite that way but that is vender only. Don't know about powertrax.

If an Aussie would of been availible at the time I would not have a Locrite now, just like what I read about them. The Locrite has worked well though.

 

Matt you an Aussie salesman? LoL

Aussie is the best $ for what you get imo. I think either or is fine. But I'd expect your dif case to wear out before either if this is a DD. and no locker is really designed to last a 100 thousand miles of onroad driving.. keep it in mind.

 

You'd think they'd at least send me a damn hat or or something eh.

 

hahahahahahahahah.........thats some good ish right there. On this subject of lockers, what would doing just the front do? I dont like the fishtailing idea.

 

Like was mentioned lock the front hubs and 4x it no fishtale problems.

I'm going to run a selectible in the rear, as in slick stuff the auto in the rear has a tendancy to act as a spool and push straight when trying to turn. I find this a more of a concern than being in the auto in the front being difficult to turn at a stop. But honestly I'd do the autolocker over an open dif any day of the week. I wheel fairly regulary and it is well worth any quirks they may have. As open difs have quirks too, like getting stuck. Its all trade offs, IMHO an autolocker front or rear is well worth the investment and "quirks period." Now if you are building a mall rated wheeler please avoid lockers they may cause you to smear your nail polish when its wet and your navigating parking lots

 

!!!!!

Yeah, I'm doing the auto locker for now, then save up for the selectable. I can handle the "quirks".

 

Does Aussie make a rear for the V6 yet?

 

The response from them is "it'll be out next month" and that has been the same response for years.

 

This is not really true.

My 84 pickup has a front lockrite, with an open rear diff. Much easier to drive on snow in 4WD than a pickup with only a rear locker. The tail stays planted and follows the nose wherever I point it. No issues with the bum sliding around and into trees or rocks.

My buddy has a similar truck, with a front lockrite and selectable rear locker. Most of the time, he leaves the rear open. Only when crawling up on rocks, when the truck bounces a bit, does he really ever actuate the rear locker.

Note that an empty pickup is slighly nose heavy. An empty SUV is slightly tail heavy. This, along with front axle strength issues, mostly determines where to put your locker. In my 84 pickup (stock SAS) the locker in the front makes the most difference. In 2WD the open rear diff drives just like before, no handling quirks at all. No noise, no extra wear and tear on tires or driveline.

As I mentioned in a previous post, my brother's old 92 v6 4Runner had a rear lockrite only, which works very well. Rear lockers are also much easier to r&r. And the 8" rear diff is stronger than the 7.5" front.

All that said, my selectable rear locker is sitting on a shelf awaiting installation. I'll be doing that after I put aside enough $$$ to regear the truck at the same time.

Exactly, which is why a locker in the front of my 84 pickup will last a long long time, because most of the time it just sits there.

 

I don't know if I mentioned it but I I'm running a front autolocker now yes from a dead stand still it is hard to turn the stering wheel a little harder than a manuul steering set up. Add a little motion and it eases the resistance some. The time I have had the most issues turning is when the rear has better traction than the front so the rear pushes the rig straight, so a selectible in the rear should solve that.

If turning from a stand still with a front locker is really bad get a twin stick, doesn't always work as great as it sounds. But hell I joke with my open dif friends "my two wheel drive goes more places that your rig does with 4wd." You can get a twin stick for less than a selectible.

 

I just bought one and it is awaiting installation....I'm very curious to see how it all goes...from my real world experience. I dont plan on locking the front just yet...I dont drive in snow or on slick roads...but I have wheeled with a guy who had a Lockright in the rear of his 2WD Ranger and he went anywhere with a little more ease than any of us who were open front and rear in 4WD...so I know they work, I've just never had one so I'm gonna take the leap.

-Ted