A.Wilson013

Well, as you may remember my engine was making a strange ticking sound at start-up, and under small loads.

Someone said Exhaust manifold.

This morning I went out to check that for the tick. My exhaust manifold COVER had 1 bolt hold it on, the other 2 are broken off in my manifold.

Questions are--

Can I run without the cover? The sound really annoys me.

How would I remove these 2 broken off bolts?

Are you as happy as I am that it's not something major?

Thanks,
Alex

DupermanDave

Are you talking about the heat shield? My heatshield is cracked at the bolt holes and is only being held on by one. I tried putting a second bolt in with a large washer, but it cracked again.

I've seen people run without them, and they say it runs fine. Will just make the engine run a little hotter than usual. But some other opinions would be better, as I don't know that much. Just going off what I've heard/seen.

A.Wilson013

Yes, the heat shield.

How would I get these bolts off?

I started it with the cover off and my sound is 100% gone. It has to be the problem.

Thanks,
Alex

toyota4x4907

I ran my '93 for 3 years without a heat shield. You should be fine in WA without one, but if you lived in like Cali or Texas or somewheres else around there, I would suggest getting new bolts.

kiyobrown

So does it still sound like a bee when you start it up?

DupermanDave

When I checked the price for a new heatshield at the dealer, it was like $89. For a heatshield, I might as well let it run hot.

A.Wilson013

Haha, it does, but now it's just because of the fuel injectors =)





Everyone else,

Thanks. I got one of those things to pull a broken bolt out. Waiting for the manifold to cool down before I try it.

Alex

yoterr

none of my yotas have had a heat shield or they have had headers that dont have heat shields, so your golden

A.Wilson013

Thanks for the tip, that gives me a bit more confidence.

Alex

yodta

I was hoping to catch you before you try this.
be careful with the bolt extractor. they break easily.

a couple of tips that have helped me, although my last bout with bolts in exhaust manifolds ended up with me at the machine shop.

• use a penetrating fluid.
• when you drill, drill all the way through the bolt shaft.
• go easy, as in, don't wrench on the extractor like you would a bolt. it should only take moderate torque to break it loose.

some people say heat works well to break them loose, but when I've had stubborn ones, it almost always ends up in a broken extractor and a trip to the machine shop.

use copper antiseize on the new bolts when you put the heat shield back on and a lock washer along with the regular washer if your bolts aren't staying tight it helps, but I've found that lock washers in these high heat situations tend to lose their spring. the copper antiseize withstands higher temps than the aluminum stuff, and will help ensure your bolts come out next time. they have the copper at NAPA stores. I've been hard pressed to find it anywhere else. they should have it at machinery suppliers, as well if you happen to have any of those local to you.

I'm a bit confused about the cracks you guys are talking about. these things are so bad that large fender type washers don't hold the heat shield on?

been a while since I messed with a Toy manifold. I switched to a tri-y header some time ago, and I use header wrap to keep the engine bay temps and noise down. I've seen photos of people wrapping exhaust manifolds, but I don't know that I'd do it with a manifold; my concern would be for it cracking if it can't cool as designed.