Yes. The readings were what they should be.

 

Yes for the 1st set of reading I posted the flap was closed.

 

AFM from Toyota $689.00. AFM for Autozone $179.99 HUH.... What the hell. Is it you get what you pay for. I called Toyota he said buy the one from the Zone. Make sure it has a full refund warranty. If it dosen't work or dosn't work long take it back then call them.

 

ok, so the readings fall within range? If so, then it's OK. If not, then go for the cheapie or try a buddies working as a for sure test.

 

Sorry the E2-VS with the flap closed read 576-586. Should have read 20-400.
The open flap readings were correct.

 

I thought that was what you meant, but making sure. That would probably cause a problem. Swap it out.

I still like the idea of swapping a buddies out. I guess I'm skeptical of ohm readings, but it's only one way of testing.

If you get the cheapie, make sure you can take it back. I'm sure it used to be a Toyota part, but who knows the quality. Lifetime warranty should take care of that though.

 

Try slowly and smoothly moving the gate while reading E2-VS.

The result should be a smooth resistance change from low to high. When you read the 576, I assume you had the gate fully closed. This is out of spec, if you did what you thought you did.

Check it again, but make sure you can keep the probes on E2-VS. Move gate slowly to fully open, and see if the readings are continuous and smooth as you go towards the fully open position.

AFM's are not cheap, so make sure its bad before you spend the bucks. It seems unlikely that it went bad from the time you started your mod. I assume you had no symptoms before you started the work.

Lastly, like the TPS, think of what the AFM is doing. It is trying to provide two readings back the ECM. One tells the ECM whether the Gate is open or closed. As soon as the gate goes from closed to open, the ECM notes the other value (the one you think might be wrong). From that point, the ECM can tell the angular displacement of the gate, by how much the resistance increases relative to the start point it noted at the transistion from closed to open.

If the AFM is working correctly, you also need to make sure the values get through the connector to the ECM.

 

Thanks JEB. Unfortunately I don't have a buddy with a Toyota. I'll buy the cheapo one in the morning if it comes with a warranty. I'm skeptical of them too. But the only reading that wasn't right, jumped between a 100 range.

 

No problem, also pay close attention what RDHarper says, he has been a big help to me. Just cover all your bases before spending dollars.

 

Update #2, new AFM is on and truck is running. Thanks JEB, rdharper, Flash319, and 4runnerX3 for all your help. I went with the AFM from Autozone. It's a genuine re-manufactured NipponDenso, with a 1 year warranty. $245.00 drive out with a $50.00 core so that's $195.00 VS $689.00 from Toyota. I'll take my chances. The truck idles really fast now but that's easily fixed. Well got go, on the Boss's computer. Thanks again!!!!!

 

We were happy to help.

Because of the failure mechanism on this part (wear on the conductive plate), it makes sense to give a re-manufactured original part a chance as opposed to purchasing a used part.

Let us know if it fails... normal life on the original is (based on a small sample) upwards of 200k miles.