89truck

I just finished the air intake / battery swap on my 89 22RE. I went to start it, it starts but dies after a second or two. I did a search but none of the ones I found really helped. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

rdharper

Not an expert here, but what comes to mind is... how did you make sure the AFM continues to report the correct air gate position.. or the equivelant?

89truck

I rerouted the wires that ran along the drivers side. I took them out of the the plastic sheath and routed them around the firewall down the passenger side. I never had to disconnect them.

rdharper

Ok, so what you are saying is that you made no changes to the air gate system, electrically etc...

And you only changed the air feed before that air gate, as well as the battery setup.

So if that is correct, and you did not have this problem before you made the changes... you certainly should not have a "new" symptom.

What you describe sounds like lack of air/fuel correct setting while cold. But nothing you did should alter that... so it is a puzzle.

89truck

Sweet...thanks. The truck sat for four days while I was at work and waiting on an air flow meter adapter. While it sat it didn't have an air filter on it but the hood was closed. It did rain, could that have anything to do with it? Also I sprayed some throttle body cleaner on the throttle body. Started it and it ran until the cleaner burned off, if this helps anyone.

4runnerx3

There are some ground wires on the intake where it comes apart.

rdharper

The rain with a closed hood, for just a few days... no effect.

Throttle body cleaner... depends on what type and where you sprayed it.. probably not the cause.. but maybe.

The AFM adaptor. How sure are you that it is a correct adaptor, and that it was connected properly. If the AFM wasn't working correctly, because of electrical connections, that would do it.

I'd probably do the FSM checks on the AFM at this point.

89truck

Which wires you speak of?

89truck

Used CRC throttle body cleaner. Used it on other vehicles with no proplems. The AFM adaptor is from Spectre they make air intake products for all kinds of vehicles. The packaging stated it it would work for a Celica and the bolt holes matched. It fit well with the plastic plate that came with it. I put it on myself about an hour before this thread.

rdharper

Unless you got the cleaner in the TPS, I really doubt that is the problem.

I'm still suspicious of the AFM not working correctly. But as I said, I'm not familiar with the specific changes you made... could be that others are and we need a bit of time for them to jump in.

89truck

If I knew how to post a link I would..... wait you'll see a thread for 22RE intake/ battery swap pop up. Thats what I did.

89truck

Could it be electrical? TPS?

Flash319

Your AFM is not working. Posible wire damage from the move, or when you plugged it in pins got damaged. What you are describing is what happends when you have no flap movement/airflow through the AFM.

89truck

Update... I checked the AFM with an OHM meter. On the E2-VS it should read 20-400. Mine was reading from 576-586. Bad AFM? Everything else checked out. E2-VC should be 100-300 read 180, E2-VB should be 200-400 read 280, E2 Tha should be 2K-3K read 2.40 on the 20K setting, so that is 2400 right? Anyway time for a new AFM?

JEBSR5

Probably so if reading off that much, but did you check for sure if AFM flap moves freely, not stuck open or is shut all the way. New flange or mount not holding open?

89truck

Flap opens and closes freely. No, the flange is not in the way. The mount currently is not connected could the have anything to do with it?

4runnerx3

Did you check it fully open and closed?

JEBSR5

Only if it was a ground, which I don't think so. Know anyone you can use their working AFM and swap for a test?

4runnerx3

JEBSR5

I assumed he was measuring closed meaning his reading was off for that, but you are right about checking open and closed.