vmax84

I should be getting my parts from engnbldr in the next day or two.

New head, cam, timing chain cover, timing chain stuff, water pump, oil pump, all new gaskets, head bolts.........

But now, my buddy is like "Steve, we might as well put pistons, rings, bearings, hone it, etc.


Where do I stop with this? Engine ran good before I tore it apart. The camshaft went bad in it, and the head was bad, but the bottom end is good in it. Truck has 175,000 miles on it.

Thanks for any advice. Oh, I really don't want to pull the engine, but my buddy said "we" could do the bottom end without pulling it.

I've got the interior all put back in it and it looks great and the stereo sounds good, too. Just need to get this engine back together.

http://community.webshots.com/user/vmax82

vmax84

Yota82

If it ran fine before don't mess with it.

surf4runner

a new top on an old bottom is just waiting to fail.

pull it and do it right the first time(once!). not pulling it out makes no sense. even if only honing the cylinders youll make a mess.

youll be happy you didnt have to 'stop' and do it all over.

vmax84

In all reality, I'm really not that far from pulling the engine, anyway. hmmmmmmmm

vmax84

dcg9381

At 175k, you'll need rings eventually.. The issue is that to do the bearings and cylinders right, you're talking about machine work that's going to run you some bucks.

It's a partial rebuild vs full rebuild deal.. If you're keeping it, why not set it up for another 200k miles?

vmax84

I really like the truck, it has never been in the salt, and I plan on keeping it for a long, long time. I really need to do this right the first time so I can go out and have fun with it.

vmax84

ovrrdrive

It makes sense to go ahead and do the bottom end as well while you're doing it if you have the time and cash. But, if my only two choices were to not do it, or do it in the truck I wouldn't do it at all.

Go ahead and pull it and do it right...

Ron521

When I replaced my timing chain and rod and main bearings, I did it because there was a need to. The timing chain had stretched to the point where it rattled, and the rod and main bearings had worn to the point where they were audibly knocking (mainly as a result of towing an enormous U-Haul trailer for 600 miles and lugging the engine). I didn't feel the need to do anything to the pistons, rings, or cylinders, because the engine didn't smoke or use oil at all. Eventually, you WILL need to at least replace the rings, but perhaps will not need new pistons, perhaps will not need to bore cylinders, as the rings DO wear faster. What kind of oil did you use, and how often did you change it? You might get another 100K, or even more.
I say, if it isn't broke, and if you don't have reason to think it will break anytime in the near future, don't fix it.

ovrrdrive

That's all very true, except for then you have to weight out is it worth $60 for a new set of pistons while you have the other set out?

And then is it worth a set of $54 bearings?

$31 rings? $12 more for moly?

Steel timing rail $10?

In my opinion the worst part of the job, and the time consuming part as well, is pulling and tearing apart the engine. Then it's just to each individual to decide just how much their time is worth and if it's worth risking wasting it all over saving $100 or so.

Unless I was going to sell the vehicle soon or if I was broke and needed transportation to work I'd do as much as I could while I was in there.

And I am the type to do it right. I have seen so many people half ass this stuff and pay for it later.

But as I said, everyone's tolerance level is different...

(all part prices quoted from epn)

maxpower_hd

I agree with most everyone else here. If you have gone this far, you may as well take it out and do the bottom end too unless you are really stapped for cash. Especially since you have 175K on the clock. Mine spun a bearing at 145K. You've already done the hardest part by removing the top end. The bottom end comes apart pretty easily once the top end and timing cover is off. I definately wouldn't do it in the truck though. It would be so much easier out of the truck.

intense

Did you actually have to pull the engine to do the rod and bearings? Or were you able to get to everything from underneath?

norcalsvx

i just did the head on mine, the bottom end looked fine @165,000

surf4runner

its possible, but why?
you need to at least hone the cyliders for new rings to seat properly. how will you ensure everything is removed/clean?

a clean engine is a engine

4runnerx3

Check the harmonic balancer where it fits the front seal to see if it has a groove worn in it.



after

BlackToySteve

New head + old bottom = rings gonna go soon.

Had a friend that put a new head on a high mileage bottom. The high pressure created by the new head (nothing leaking past the valves) caused the piston rings to start passing oil. He had to run an oil thickener to keep from blowing too much oil through his engine. It didn't use any oil before, but it sure did after.

Dan_90SR5

I have to agree with most of the people on here. Rebuild the whole thing. I bought all of my stuff from him and I got some coated pistons.......they are for a Camry though.....not sure if the 4Runner ones are coated or not. I did get some Total Seal rings for mine though.

To further add to why I agree with everyone. I have rebuilt several engines from big diesel the size of my 4Runner down to the 22R that I'm assuming that you have in your 4Runner/truck. The 22R is a very simple engine to rebuilt. It's also easy to pull. I pulled the one in my Celica in less than 4 hours. Install time was about the same or less.

Go for and spend the extra cash.....well worth it in the long run.

dcg9381

I did *not* have a good experience with total seal rings. Do a web search on "total seal" and "oil consumption" you'll find a lot of similiar stories.

The good news was that my leak down was excellent, like 1-2%.
The bad news was that the motor didn't smoke, but mysteriously ate a good deal of oil... I replaced the rings several times, but it always ate more oil that it should.

If you go with total seal rings, be very careful that the finish of your bore is exactly right per the ring specs. This may have solved my issue as I didn't specify the type of final hone necessary to for the rings.

Dan_90SR5

Man, I thought we were friends and you were going to help me wrire up my MegaSquirt. Why did you have to burst my bubble on the Total Seal rings? I'm going to hope for the best. I did tell my engine guy that I had Total Seals rings and they had specific instrustiong on honing with them. Hopefully everything will be good. I'll keep everyone posted. BTW, MS will be here next week, but waiting on some parts on back order from Japan.

vmax84

Well, after a lot of thought (and talking again to my mechanic buddy), we're just gonna go ahead and pull the engine, have it bored, etc.

I plan on keeping the truck for a long time, and, providing I keep it out of the Michigan salt (which I will), the body will last a long time.........might as well have a decent engine to match it.

Thanks again for all the good help.

vmax84

misterzee

and another $500 in the machine shop....
while the engine is out, machine the flywheel and replace the clutch assy.