vmax84

Ok, finally got the head off:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/why-wont-22re-cylinder-head-come-off-102569/

Now where do I go from here? I was going to go with an Orient engine, but after seeing the condition of the engine after pulling the head, I'm having second thoughts.

The engine ran good before I tore it apart. Matter of fact, it ran real good. But it had a top end noise from the bad camshaft. The camshaft was bad, with the rear lobes getting hot and the shiney stuff on the lobes wearing away. The pics should give you a pretty good idea on the condition of the head (notice the galling in the middle carrier for the camshaft). The head and camshaft are junk.

The engine itself looks like it's in real good shape. There isn't much cross hatching left.....the walls in spots are almost like a mirror. I do have a used head in good shape, but I'm thinking about putting it up on ebay and dumping it. I am leaning towards now calling enginebldr and getting a head, camshaft, timing chain, etc., and getting that stuff from him.

What do you think? Thanks.

vmax84

http://rides.webshots.com/album/556655384cldAkc

vmax84

After pulling the head and looking at the condition of the intake and exhaust valves, I really don't anything out of the ordinary. I was expecting to see the number 4 cylinder a mess, the #4 head valves a mess, etc. The only thing I see wrong is a bad camshaft and top part of the cylinder head. The bottom part of the cylinder head (where the combustion takes place) doesn't look that bad to me.

After engnbldr gets back from vacation, I'll probably try and run this by him and see what he recommends.

vmax84

04 Rocko Taco

cant go wrong eith engnbldr. He'll steer you straight.

vmax84

Engine has (well, what the odometer says anyway.....who really knows) 175,000 miles on it. Like I said, it made it from Texas to Michigan no problem.

I feel like I can get away with putting a head, camshaft, head gasket, timing chain and cover, etc., on it and call it a day (or a month)!!!

vmax84

vmax84

The cylinder walls look pretty ratty when you look at the pics, but really look super nice after I wiped them with a rag (why I didn't wipe them before taking the pictures is beyond me). There is a very small lip at the top of the cylinder walls (from the rings I guess). Can barely feel it.

What do you think........can I simply put a top end on this engine?

vmax84

vmax84

Is it me, or does it look like the water ports are clogged up? I need to get home and look.

vmax84

rdlsz24

I think your water ports look like that cause the head gasket is still on there. See what it looks like after you scrape the gasket off. I found that Permatex gasket remover with a putty knife does the trick.

Personally I think the block looks like it's in good shape. You can get a new head, cam, timing set, etc for under $500 USD.

Rob

vmax84

Well, I looked at the engine and the gasket holes are actually drilled smaller than the engine block. I'm assuming this engine has been into before.......crappy head gasket?

vmax84

vmax84

To my amazement, the head gasket lifted right off!! It just appears the gasket holes are quite a bit smaller than the block holes.

vmax84

InternetRoadkill

Replace the cylinder head, cam, rockers, and rocker shafts.

The engnbldr head works great and it's not much more than trying to get that old head restored. Go with a new head. You'll be happy you did in the long run.

Rocker shafts are cheap. Chances are your old ones have grooves worn into them which will cause problems for the new rockers.

Replace all the rockers with official -Toyota- pieces. Aftermarket rockers are crap.

(I'm going to catch hell for this but...) Be very careful using third party cams. Try to stay with either the official toyota OEM, TRD cam, or a cam from LC engineering. The reason is that many third party cams are not heat treated to the full toyota factory specs. (The same goes for the rocker arms, which is why I recommend staying with the toyota brand.) I found all this out the hard way ($$$).

While you're at it, you might consider getting your intake manifold and throttle body bead-blasted inside and out to remove any carbon and oil build up. (Use walnut shell or plastic bead media. and wash it good afterwards. Remove the TPS before blasting.)

Now's a good time to get your injectors cleaned too.

vmax84

It sounds like I should get a whole new rocker (or rocker arm?) assembly? The rockers and the shafts? Man, those things gotta be pricey!!! Where would I get new assemblies without getting robbed at the dealership? Thanks.

vmax84

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it looks good. It doesn't appear that you had any head gasket issues at all. If, as you say, it was running good before, I would just slap a new head (with all the goodies) on it and go. Couple of Q's: Did you do a compression or leakdown on it before teardown? Do you have reason to believe the engine has other than the 175K on the odo?

InternetRoadkill

I'm sorry to say that there is no way around having to replace most of the valve train. The wear on the cam and rockers can't be fixed. Anytime you replace a cam, you have to replace the things that ride on it (lifters or the rockers in the this case). Your rockers look badly worn, so out they go.

Unfortunately, rockers for the 22RE are not cheap. You can get them from LC engineering (they are genuine toyota rockers) for about $21.00 each. The rocker shafts are widely available and go for around $30 to $40 each. Note that the intake shaft and exhaust shaft are different.

If you buy a head from engnbldr, it will come with all new parts including new valves, springs, guides, and seals. These run about $400.

dcg9381

I usually dog half-ass rebuild, but if your rockers are in good shape, I'd reuse the whole assembly. Rockers can be smoothed out if they have mild scoring at most qualified machine shops - slight change in rocker ratio, but I dont think it's significant. Just make sure the assembly itself is in good shape, no burrs, no scars, and everything moves smoothly. Non-oem rockers are available - talk to Ted (engnbldr) if they're OK for a stock valvetrain.

Do *not* take it apart without marking it for reassembly. Switching 2 rocker towers can result in oil starvation for the top end.

If you want to replace it, Consider an entire EPN head - top line casting- I think it's around $388 from Ted (engnbldr).

vmax84

I did a compression check on it a year or so ago. I forget what the numbers were (wizard, ain't I??!!!), but the numbers were all the same.

I'm assuming it has a 175k, but these things are easy to reset. But looking at the rest of the truck, maybe the numbers are correct.

One nice thing about a southern truck is that the dang bolts are not all salt welded together!!

vmax84

vmax84

What about something like this? Anybody have any quality comments on it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...7068717&rd=1,1

vmax84

vmax84

I do have a spare (used) rocker assembly ready to go. They look real nice with very little wear.

I understand the rockers, cam, and head on my truck are junk. I plan on pitching them.

I'm just at that crossroads that I always come to when it comes to fixing things.........spend the money and fix it right, or cross your fingers, save some money, and put used parts back on it.

It is an old truck, but I really don't want to be back in here doing the same thing again in a month.

vmax84

InternetRoadkill

Re-using old rockers on a new cam will likely destroy the cam. The reason is that the old rockers won't seat properly on the new cam surface.

I know it sucks having to replace the rockers. I've been there. I would advise against trying to use old rockers on a new cam.

vmax84

I hate spending money, but I really hate spending money on repairing something twice!! I'm gonna do this one right and not cheap out on the parts.

vmax84

dcg9381

The rockers can be resurfaced by a machine shop.