alright, i feel like an idiot for posting this, but in an '89-95 truck, can you just yank the engine by itself? i was reading the online FSM and it said to pull the tranny at the same time, something i've never done on a toyota. however, i've also never pulled the engine on one of these trucks. i don't want anything to do with pulling that 3 foot behemoth tranny out ever again.

pulling the engine by itself in my '79 and my buddy's 77 was easy, except for the part where the bellhousing glues itself to the engine after 20 years and you need a prybar to seperate them.

 

Yup you can do it. The tranny bell will sit on the sway bar. You will need to hold it up until you get the engine off it though.

 

What's wrong with your engine that it requires pulling?

 

I would say it depends. On the 5speed you defently can. but the auto is enough bigger were you may not be able to get the upper bellhouseing bolts out, (i wasnt able to and neither was cebby) in which case youll have to end up pulling the trans out with it (to a point far enough to get the bolts out, or all the way depends on weather or not you want to fool with it)

 

short version: i'm not pulling the engine down to a short block with it in the truck again, when a rebuild would only take a little more labor.

long version: i did the timing chain after i bought the truck in august, and the tensioner has failed. i fear it's due to some crud flaking loose and plugging up the tensioner, as the engine is pretty sludged up inside. to do the timing chain the "right" way(the way i like to do it) you need to pull the head. the engine's got nearly 200k on it so i've decided to rebuild it instead.

 

just out of curiousity, why do you need to pull the head to do a timing chain, the "right" way? whats the difference between just pulling the timing cover off and pulling the head?

 

i like to do some things by the book, as well as the fact that the engine has some other issues that i'd like to take care of as well. i'm a fan of the scorched earth approach to engine repair, though.

 

ok, i just wanted to make sure that if all you had to do was change the timing chain, pulling the head isn't really needed.

 

i was able to get the top tranny bolts off my auto 3.0 but i had to remove the front tires to get to them with a wrench

 

I pulled mine and left the tranny in after getting the engine out I used a tie down strap to keep it in place.

 

get a 3 foot extension go through the shifters inside the cab with breaker bar. 5 minuites there out!

 

That's one thing I didn't try, but I tried just about everything else to get all the tranny bolts loose. I got all but one out (the top drivers side) but to get that last one I took Cebby's lead and moved the engine forward a few inches and came in from the top.

 

Thats what I do!!! Anytime I'm working on a 22R or 22RE with all that crap in the way, or no body lift, that is the easiest way to go. Them long ass extensions also come in handy to reach exhaust manifold bolts on 3.0s

 

ive never needed 3 feet, i've got a 12" and an 8" wobble extension, and a u-joint. makes pretty quick work of those upper bellhousing bolts. i can even do it with a single 8" extension if i'm pulling the tranny, just drop the crossmember and let it hang from the engine.

 

hardest part is that you need to split the upper intake from the lower to separate the wiring harness from the engine... or you can pull it out from the inside of the cab. Then yank it like you would a carbed engine.

 

i just found that out...but i pulled the harness off the ECU through the firewall, and then pulled the upper intake and unplugged everything. what a mess! nothing like my 22R where i can unplug the alternator harness, disconnect the starter and yank it out!

 

yup, unbolt from bellhousing and unbolt flywheel.




No kidding on the 100+ft of wiring

 

ive always pulled the harness out with the engine just snake it from the mass air flow and the ecu and yank it