tampabayota

i was told that because it will take me about a month to get from the bottom end of our 22rtec to the top end, that i have to grease up all my bearings, pistons,crank etc etc etc. Can anyone confirm this or can i just use 10w50 to put all the parts in. Im a novice at engine building,heck this is my first time thank you to all that answer this question.

mastacox

It's called "assembly grease" or "assembly lube" I think, they use it on Trucks! and Hot Rod TV whenever they're putting a new engine together. Helps make sure everything has lube when you start 'er up the first time.

leiniesred

back in the old days, we used a 50/50 mix of STP and engine oil.

tampabayota

so its ok to use? For all the money im putting in this thing it couldnt hurt i guess.

mastacox

Actually I'd think of it more as a requirement... if stuff doesn't have lube when it startes moving, damage will occur.

tampabayota

thanks

ovrrdrive

Is what ok to use?

You said grease. And if you're talking about like axle grease or wheel bearing grease then no it isn't ok to use.

Be sure you have either real assembly lube, oil and stp mix (yeah, I'm from those days too ), or lots of fresh oil on all of the parrts and you'll be fine.

When I put the new head on, I poured all 5 quarts of oil over the valves before I put the valve cover on to flood everything with oil.


Btw, it takes like 5-10 seconds to oil everything up when you start the engine the first time. But if the parts are dry that's long enough to score and scrape everything bad enough that the engine won't last very long...

Be sure to pack your oil pump with vaseline to prime it.

tampabayota

explain more about the oil pump and vaseline?

bodo

I had mad $$$$ in mine coat everything that moves or is subject to corrosion in motor oil ( I used 10W30) and check it everyday, reoil it won't hurt. When you look at your oil pump get a big threefinger dip of vaseline like you're gonna (nevermind) and cram everybit in the gears. When you get the motor in the truck pull the coil wire and bump the starter for about 30sec you should be fine. DON'T USE JUST OIL ON YOUR CAM LOBES, USE CAM CAM LUBE. (Not yelling, just stressing).

leiniesred

Started to type to add the same thing bodo added. Cam lube on the cam, and pull the coil wire so you can crank 'till you get the oil pressure gauge to move.

AH64ID

I think the stuff I used when I did my cam on my 95 was call "Power Punch".. you have to do something or you will have big issues...

Something my dad does on his boat, it sits 9 months a year, is he turn the fuel off at the fuel pump, 3406 cat diesel, and runs the motor with the starter until he see oil pressure, then for 10 or so more seconds. There isnt as much stress on a motor turning by the starter as there is with a motor turning by firing, so you can get oil everywhere without having to fire it up.

I also do this my removing the coil wire on my 22RE when it sits for more that a month. Motor the starter for 15-20 seconds a couple of times and then plug the coild back in and away she goes, oil psi comes right back. If your doing it to a fresh motor be sure to do it long enough to allow the oil filter to fill.

tampabayota

thanks guys that helps , I never thought of that i plan on lubeing everything tha t moves,oh what the heck even things that dont move will get it too!

Buck01

ok This brings up another question for me...

I know on american V8's you can use and old distributor shaft or buy a tool to spin the oil pump to get everything oiled up and check pressure.

Is there any way to do this on the 22RE engine? I know it is a different kind of pump but am curious..........

Thanks

GrimReaper

No way to spin the pump. Drives directly off the crank.

You could run a pre lube set up and pressurize it externally through and adapter on the oil filter mount.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

You would use on of those.

AH64ID

You can just spin the starter and it will spin the pump.. if you are worried about starter load remove the spark plugs....

Yotapup

The guy that rebuilds for me gave me a hint on priming the pump and also the timing chain tensioner(works by hydraulics). Turn the motor by hand for at least 5 complete revolutions.

AH64ID

Yeah, pretty much the same as I do, but mine is easier.. and I also think the faster it turns the easier it will prime.. and certainly the faster it will fill the block and filter

maxpower_hd

I used assembly lube on ALL the bearings, races, bushings, etc. It is a sticky oil that stays in place for a long time. Motor oil will run off over time. It also helps hold things in place while assembling because it is kind of thick. I've also used it on taps when repairing spark plug holes and the like. The metal sticks to the oil pretty well.

I used motor oil in the cylinders and kept a close eye on everyhting to be s ure it stayed wet. Once I was done and it was back in the truck, I did as previously mentioned and cranked the motor without the plugs in and with the coil wire removed to get the oil pumping.

I also installed a cheap $13 Sunpro oil pressure gauge before I started it too. I don't trust lights, especially after a rebuild. Wires get broken pretty easily.

dcg9381

Why will it take a month? It's a frigging 22RE (t) - it's about as common as motor gets.

Assembly lube is best. I've seen grease used, but wouldn't recommend it.

Remember to pack your oil pump.. If you don't do this, you're asking for trouble.

A manual oil pressure gauge is a good idea.. If not, pull the plugs and crank her until you see oil pressure register. Either way, make SURE you have pressure before you go to start it for the first time.

tampabayota

it will take a month because im only working on it 4-6 hrs a week its at a shop i rented out down the street