acousticrawk

okay, everything is working in my truck... except...

my center console has no power... my rear window doesnt operate (i tried all the simple fixes on the 4crawler site) and my "Engine" fuse is missing.

i bought the truck this way... questions..

WHAT DOES THE ENGINE FUSE CONTROL?
my truck doesnt have this fuse, and the gauges have been jumper wired for power from the PO... the reason the fuse is out i am guessing is because a fuse wont stay in the slot and make contact.. i think the female connector is broken)

WHY WOULDNT MY CENTER CONSOLE HAVE NO POWER?
(the rear blower doesnt work, nor to any of the switches have any power)

im guessing the rear window works fine... but there is some sort of botched power issue going on. there was so many wiring gremlins i have already sorted, re-run, soldered and repaired in this truck.

TIA!!!

acousticrawk

i did find that the rear window WILL NOT work without the engine fuse... so what about the center console not having any power?

still curious what else the engine fuse controls...

im going to get the rear window bypass kit and bypass all that crap.

86yota321

The 'engine' fuse runs off of the alt and then runs power to various other things like your gauges. My guess is that the PO probably had an issue with that fuse blowing which is why your gauges are jumped. A fuse is there for a reason. Haynes, if you have one, has decent wiring diagrams, fairly easy to read.

MrPeepers

Not sure in your situatuion, but I once worked on a car where somebody had removed teh center console and forgot to plug all the harnesses back in. Easy, free fix if it is that.

acousticrawk

all the harnesses were def plugged in. the reason he bypassed the engine fuse, is because the fuse WONT STAY IN THE SLOT. with that said... i rewired it all correctly, and bypassed everything as it should be... AND... i will be putting a fuse inline on the bypass.

well... good news is, i got everything int he center console working accept the blower, which is fine because all the coolant lines have been removed by the PO. haha.

when i click the window down switch, i get a power draw... but now rolley downy...

i bypassed, the hard top switch, and will bypass the tailgate safety, and the wiper safety too... any other random safety switches i can bypass? if after all those bypasses, i can assume, its either the relay or the motor correct?

MrPeepers

Does the back window work with key in back, but not switch?

acousticrawk

i wish i knew... im about to start a new thread on that topic actually.. i only have on key from the PO... it works in the ignition, but is a little sticky in there... and that same key wont fit in any of the doors or tailgate.

NCalDyer

to test if it is the motor or something else for the rear window you can pull the panels off the the tailgate (from the inside) and jumper the wires on the key switch to roll the window down and back up. if the motor moves (and the window too) the problem lies within the switches (console and key). if the motor doesnt respond to the jumping then your not getting power all the way to the motor and i would suspect the rear window relay hidden in the drivers side rear interior panel next to or under the built-in storage container. (im basing all of this off of my '91, but am assuming that the first gen will be the same or close enough)

also if you get the rear window working but it goes up and down slowly, you can clean the seal it goes into and apply a dry lube to it. that is what i did and it zooms now. or alternatively it can be going slowly because of the relay, which (somewhat) commonly wears out, in which case it should be replaced (this info also based off of the 2nd generation 4runners)

acousticrawk

awesome.. ill give that a try.

if the relay is bad... i wont be buying a new one! way to expensive... id like to build a simple relay set like 12voltguy but i cant find anyone else thats done one... id rather not pay 90 bucks or whatever, and i love building things myself. if i could build my own set up like that id be golden. just cant justify 80-90 bucks for 2 relays, a switch i already have, and a few cut sections of wire. 45-50 would be fair.... but not 80-90.