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I wonder if your 4runner was ever partially submerged,in a flood.

 

with the time and money invested into your truck I believe you could have completed a 3.4 swap into that thing by now. It could just possibly be a lemon. The world is an imperfect place. screws fall out. A different engine harness might help possibly. could have something wrong with yours. a short somewhere that you cant see. more than likely its probably some odd ball sensor. good luck

 

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That's interesting! I think now you're getting somewhere! You see, in a number of threads (older ones, I recall), a way to check the TPS is to unplug it and see if it changes the behavior of the engine. If it changes nothing, then it's very likely suspect. In fact, it's most likely the problem. The ECU does have default programming so that if something like the TPS or ECT sensor goes bad, it can adjust operating conditions to make up for the electronic input malfunction. This is provided it's still getting a signal (with wrong input or not) from the sensor. In other words, not unplugged or bad/no connection. Even then, I think it has some ability there.

My personal advice is to forget everything else for the moment and focus on that coolant sensor. I know money's tight, Dwayne, but you can get a replacement at O'Reilly fairly inexpensively.

Two options here....

Get the replacement and have it on hand. Like I said with the coil, you can take the sensor back for your money if it's not the problem. But, I'm thinking it is. The motor should quit running. If I did this I my 22re (and, I have), it would be very unhappy and die. Anyway, have the replacement, pull the original sensor, and test it. If it's bad, you have the new one and you're up and running. If it's not bad, take the new one back. No money lost.

Now, if you find you need the new one, I know it's not OEM, but I've used the O'Reilly units before and they worked fine until I could get/afford a used Denso replacement from Nix99 = DeathCougar. I have a used one on my 22re and it's working great. Has for a while now. The new one I returned (it has a warranty) and got my money back once the used one arrived and I installed it. I told the guys at O'Reilly it wasn't working right. Not a problem with them because I spend a lot of money there, anyway. Hell......I've been going there 15yrs. It's nothing feel bad about, either. It's no loss to the store.

Second option is when/if you find the sensor to be bad, put it back and keep driving until you can afford one from Nix. Up to you.

As for testing, like I said, it's simple. I'll have to look up later what to watch for when testing. I know it's in the FSM, but I've also posted about it in an older thread somewhere. I can do this later at work. Right now, I have to getting ready and go to work...

Later

 

Ummm.....

Surely you haven't spent close to $2k on this motor, have you? A 3.4 swap would cost you that much, atleast. Plus, it's far more involved than what you're doing. Particularly with your electronically controlled auto tranny. I'd say something different if you were rebuilding you're entire motor. Then, that option might make more sense. On the other hand, I've rebuilt my 3vze and not having any problems with it even after wrecking it. Well, except the airflow meter. But, that's nothing to do with the motor itself.

Anyway, gotta go.......tah!

 

Found the thread.........

Okay, when the sensor is cold (as in the coolant is cold) the resistance reading should be high. When hot, the resistance should be low.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...98engineco.pdf

The graph may be kinda hard to understand, but it gives you specs here.

So, the way to really test it, though, is to follow how it functions as the coolant changes temps. Put it a pot of cold water, ohm it out, note the reading, then watch the meter as the temp rises. There should be a steady decrease in resistance. Anything else, it is bad.

 

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Wow.....I didn't know you were that far into it, Dwayne. Yeah, probably if you sold it you couldn't get what you've paid thus far, but that with most any vehicle. I know I wouldn't get near what I've put in to any of my Toyotas, but it doesn't bother me because I like them........very much.

There was long period where I was real closing to hating my wife's '92. It was the bain of my vehicular experience. Seemed like I'd never get it running right. Other than the recent AFM and the frame being out of alignment (from the wreck I had a few years ago) it runs top notch now, though. "Frog" is her name. We have a sentimental value on it and certainly plan to keep it. When we have the money in hand, we actually plan to take it to a professional frame/body shop and have it completely straightened out. That may wind up costing twice as much as the vehicle's resale value, but so what. It's Frog!

So, I'd say buck up. You'll get it running right and you will enjoy it.

Great.........you got the parts. Try one at a time, though. You'll want to know what's going to make the difference, if any. I'd say sensor first. But, I guess the coil is easiest, so you may do that first. Up to you, eh.

Have fun with the door.......challenging little b#$$% they are.

 

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yeah water in the exhaust is normal on initial startup, hope you get this thing figured out, i wanna see a post that says "I GOT IT simple little thingy mabober cleared it all up" lmao hopfully it goes that easy good luck

 

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Have you done a cylinder leak down test?
You can find a cheap one here.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94190

Here is a how to video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOHYrf4dJzM

 

or a compression test?

 

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A compression test will only tell you part of the story.
As much money as you have thrown at this issue without resolve. I think a 40$ tool is a small price for the confidence you will gain that your valves are good or bad.
By the way I still think your #6 exhaust valve is burnt, but hope its something else.

 

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Here's a quick test for you... take a dollar bill, dont matter what denomination, stick it in front of you exhaust pipe while the truck is running, if it gets sucked back into the exhaust AT ALL, you got a bad/ stuck valve.