engine feels like it's missing some horsepower
Sep 9, 2009 | 06:14 PM
#41
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,656
Likes: 16
From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
And, here it is.........
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cation-154218/
BTW, I found every auction going for an airflow meter. But, the problem is none were really tested. One dude figures checking the vehicles diagnostic system for codes was adequate, but the problem is a bad VAFM will not always throw a code. So, it has to be checked with an ohm meter. The others, well I've not heard back from one seller on my request to test it, yet. He's got a reasonable price, but if he won't test it I won't buy it. Actually, that's the seller/auction you posted the link on. Another is brand new with a lifetime warranty. It's really moot on both counts, though. I found one from DeathCougar at Nix99 for a great price I think I'm going to go with.
Thanks for the info and the tip, Dwayne. Looks like I won't have to spend alot to solve my issue.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cation-154218/
BTW, I found every auction going for an airflow meter. But, the problem is none were really tested. One dude figures checking the vehicles diagnostic system for codes was adequate, but the problem is a bad VAFM will not always throw a code. So, it has to be checked with an ohm meter. The others, well I've not heard back from one seller on my request to test it, yet. He's got a reasonable price, but if he won't test it I won't buy it. Actually, that's the seller/auction you posted the link on. Another is brand new with a lifetime warranty. It's really moot on both counts, though. I found one from DeathCougar at Nix99 for a great price I think I'm going to go with.
Thanks for the info and the tip, Dwayne. Looks like I won't have to spend alot to solve my issue.
Sep 10, 2009 | 04:12 AM
#43
if i were you i would pull your injectors out, send them out to an injector shop to have them cleaned and flow tested. while they are out. pull out the plastic cups the injectors sit in on the lower plenum and replace the o-rings and maybe run a little silicone around them to make sure you're not getting an airleak there. check you're oil as well. Chances are if you're running around with this miss you're getting unburned fuel mixing with the oil which can be devastating to your motor.
Sep 10, 2009 | 04:30 AM
#44
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 101
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From: Northern Virginia, USA
Swap injectors
Also, you may want to swap plugs between #6 and some other location NOT the one you swapped the injector into. This way you can see if plug #6 gets darker again even with a different injector.
jrohland
Sep 10, 2009 | 10:52 AM
#47
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 167
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From: Winslow, Az
may sound stupid but I was having a similar problem with a nissan pickup. I tried everything dumped all kinds of money into trying to fix it. So I had my Dad look at it and he dug under the hood wiggled a few connectors around till he came on one that made the motor sound better. turned the truck off took some electrical cleaner to it and sanded the contacts and bam all was good from there. Just my input sometimes is the small things we over look. Good Luck.
Sep 10, 2009 | 06:58 PM
#54
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
On these trucks, being pre-OBDII, you won't get a CEL when a cylinder misfires unless the misfire also causes some other code like a rich fuel mixture or similar. The only thing remotely resembliing a misfire code on our trucks is a "14-No IGF for 6 or more events" and that means 6 cylinders misfiring in a row in order to throw that code and then you have something really serious going on. OBDII can tell which cylinder is misfiring but ours can't.
Sep 10, 2009 | 11:14 PM
#55
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,656
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Sep 10, 2009 | 11:17 PM
#56
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,656
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
On these trucks, being pre-OBDII, you won't get a CEL when a cylinder misfires unless the misfire also causes some other code like a rich fuel mixture or similar. The only thing remotely resembliing a misfire code on our trucks is a "14-No IGF for 6 or more events" and that means 6 cylinders misfiring in a row in order to throw that code and then you have something really serious going on. OBDII can tell which cylinder is misfiring but ours can't.
Sep 10, 2009 | 11:28 PM
#57
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,656
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
ok here is another update.....I'm still troubleshooting the issue with why I don't get a C.E.L. with some electronics unplugged, and I do get a C.E.L. on with others unplugged.....I think I should get a C.E.L. on with all the items I list below (not just some) ...man is this getting confusing
Unhooked the harness connector from these one at a time with engine running
1) T.P.S.(rpms rise,I think it should do that?)
2) coil primary(kills engine as it should)...throws a C.E.L. when restarted
3) coil pick up coils(kills engine as it should)
C.E.L. on dash comes on
I unhook the harness connector from these one at a time with engine running
1) fuel injector on #2,4,6 (can't get to #1,3,5 unless I remove the plenum so I'll check them later)... No C.E.L.[/COLOR]
2) plug wire from spark plugs #2,4,6 ...No C.E.L.
3) Dizzy coil pick up connector (this kills the engine as it should)....throws a C.E.L when restarted which should be correct
any help will be appreciated
Unhooked the harness connector from these one at a time with engine running
1) T.P.S.(rpms rise,I think it should do that?)
2) coil primary(kills engine as it should)...throws a C.E.L. when restarted
3) coil pick up coils(kills engine as it should)
C.E.L. on dash comes on
I unhook the harness connector from these one at a time with engine running
1) fuel injector on #2,4,6 (can't get to #1,3,5 unless I remove the plenum so I'll check them later)... No C.E.L.[/COLOR]
2) plug wire from spark plugs #2,4,6 ...No C.E.L.
3) Dizzy coil pick up connector (this kills the engine as it should)....throws a C.E.L when restarted which should be correct
any help will be appreciated
No matter......
I learned yesterday that a coil can test good for all practical purposes on an ohm meter (according to the FSM) and yet still be bad. A pro mechanic explained this to me after relaying a recent experience with his dragster which he put a brand new, very expensive, high performance, high quality coil on. But, when he got it to the track, the dragster hit hard off the line and then promptly fell flat on it's face. He put another spare on that he knew was good and went on to race. He also explained how he tested the coil that was a much more imperical way, but since his knowledge is over my head I didn't quite understand. I would have to drop in to his shop sometime so he can show me how it's done. Point being, head to O'Reilly and get another coil. Put it in. If it changes nothing, take it back, tell them you didn't install it, and get your money back. They really don't care.........well, as long it's not the manager.
That's what I would do, anyway. Rule it out.
Oh, and if it does make the difference, I guess you needed a new coil.
Last edited by thook; Sep 10, 2009 at 11:29 PM.
