As I posted in another thread My motor will idle just great at 750 but lopes with slight throttle applied. I’m thinking it’s the “fuel cut RPM” because it fluctuates between 1600 and 2000 RPMs. From what gather the TPS is what activates the fuel cut RPM? That’s what the FSM test says it should do when connector is jumped. TPS tested out fine by the book. When I remove TPS connector it goes from idle to WOT with no lope, no hesitation, no problems. When I put it back on right back to the loping.
Does this mean even though all the numbers are by the book the TPS is bad? Any info on the “fuel cut RPM” would be helpful, as I don’t really have a clue as to why. THIS IS NOT AN IDLE PROBLEM!
1 -1/2 hours and $85 bucks later its defiantly not the TPS! Brand spankin’ new one and it still does the lope thing. Someone has to have fixed this problem before.
I figured I would check at the ECU to see if the right voltages were getting there? Electrical is my weakest skill when it comes right down to it I SUCK!
I started with the wiring to see if maybe I had a short?
So this more of an electrical question, By the numbers below does anyone see a problem? The only real discrepancy I see in what I have and what FSM calls for are very small amounts but could that make the differnce?

Resistance at ECU Wiring Connectors

Terminals.............Condition..........Resistanc e (k )..........Actual (k )
IDL-E2 .............Throttle Open........Infinity ......................OL
.......................Throttle Closed........0-.01.......................0.3
VTA-E2..............Throttle Open........3.3-10......................5.0
........................Throttle Closed......0.2-0.8.....................0.7
Vcc-E2.........................................4-9 .........................7.1
THA-E2...................@ 68*.............2-3 .........................2.8
THW-E2.................@ 176* ...........0.2-0.4......................1.8
+B-E2..........................................0.2-0.4......................0.4
Vc-E2..........................................0.1-0.3......................29
Vs-E2.....................Closed.............0.02-0.1....................0.8
.............................Open ..............0.02-0.1....................24
Ne-E1...........................................0.14-0.18................. .21
STJ-E1..........................................Infini ty......................OL
FPU-E1..........................................Infini ty......................OL
HT-E1...........................................Infin ity......................OL

Ill get back with the voltages as soon as I can.
I have a ECU out of my 87 4runner but its says 22r not 22re but the 87 was EFI. Could it hurt to try the older ECU?
Ive got to do something I cant get it inspected the way she is now!
The only thing changed before it started this was the O2 sensor I guess Ill look into that next.

 

I was gonna delete this and post it in electrical but dont have time to figure it out right now.

 

Is it doing this after it warms up ?. if so then check the 02 sensor, if its original or has a lot of miles on it, it would be a good idea to just replace it. If you do replace it get a Denso 02 sensor, that`s an OEM replacement. DO NOT use a Bosch 02 sensor, they don`t work well in toyotas.

 

It does it when its hot or cold. Just finnished testing New O2 sensor and its doin' its job, however it is Bosch. The last Bosch I put in it lasted 3-1/2 years but next time I will get the Denso even if its more $. I'm Really startin' to think ECU, and I know the other truck was EFI so I may just swap them out and see what happens.